Stevey Y

Hi it is still possible its a wrong un try fitting the old one and see what happens if its the same you could have a wiring problem at the plug on the main loom where it connects to the sensor. Steve.

Hi if you pull the wire off of the pressure sensor and it runs chances are it is the sensor gone as it has a default position for starting manually but is taking no signal voltage as its had it . Steve.

Hi I would start by replacing the valve on the front of the servo about ten mins work there is a massive post about these units on the forum under BAKE SERVO RESTRICTED other than that it could be a battery problem. Steve.

Hi I would say on the exhaust before the catalytic converter, normally a 19mm fixing with a wire cable in the middle. Steve.

Hi its possible that you have a dodgy sensor, not unknown, I have pulled them out of a new box and fitted them and had the same result, avoid NAPA or any of the own brand stuff on eBay you can't go wrong with a bit of FEBI/HELLA/BOSCH they might be a bit dearer but when fitted you will see where the extra money went. Steve.

Hi it depends on what your perception of expensive, the only other way round it is to get the journals white metal sprayed or inserts fitted by an engineers and a new camshaft, don't know how much that would be, a lesson again in the importance of oil pressure as it only has to be weak for a small amount of time for any metal to metal surface to pick up and score itself. Steve.

Hi re check the cam belt timing or did it run fine after the belt was changed and only play up after the sensor change. Steve.

Hi you are better off replacing the entire unit not to difficult, not to expensive, but make sure you buy a new rubber grommet as that deteriorates with age and give it a liberal coating of silicone grease when refitting grommet they tend to last longer, thats probably where your leak is. Steve.

Hi remove the return pipe from the rail to the filter and see if there is fuel being returned if not it sounds like a lift pump problem, but in saying that I think you need an in depth scan on something like VCDS/Snap on to rule outing underlying cause that your existing reader may not pick up. Steve.

Hi get someone to push the flap closed while you pull the emergency release, keep it pulled and then get the other guy to release the flap. Steve.

Hi it could be the level sensor as Steve said these are attached to the lift pump in the rear under the rear seat I believe and are prone to getting perforated or the level sensor itself is faulty, try taking the pump out and lifting the float manually to see if the light goes out, if not it is because the graduation unit [electrical] has given up the ghost in which case it all comes as one unit. Steve.

Hi no such thing as a normal Audi parts quote or labour come to that and being as they source the parts from outside suppliers Bosch/Valeo it might be worth getting the part number and having a trawl on the net its probably less than half price they want. Steve.

Hi they only did front wheel drive/Quattro, if it is a Quattro it will have a badge to that effect on the tailgate other than that look underneath for a prop shaft which goes to the rear Haldex unit it will also have driveshafts on the rear, why not if its manual, in my considered opinion the manual box is better and you get far less problems than the power robbing auto units. Steve.

Hi did you recode the new battery to the car. Steve.

Hi think the unit will have to be re coded to the car unless its the same part number as the old unit. Steve.

Hi hopefully it was a good brand AGM battery you replaced it with other than that it could be the battery energy module gone wonky, best policy is get the car scanned for faults you may get a better idea of whats going on especially if they clear the old and new codes after as sometimes they will reappear as the ECU has logged them. Steve.

Hi sorry for the late reply but I had to do some research my end, the battery charge oscillation is quite normal as when it assesses the battery is nearly at full charge it starts cutting back so it wont overcharge, as for the starting problem the general consensus is that its the fuel supply, could be the lift pump in the tank they become weaker with age and are prone to this type of problem as when warm they don't pump the fuel as efficiently. Steve.

Hi if its both discs its probably the wrong thickness discs, if its one side only its a seized calliper so you will have to replace that and the flexible hose as they have a habit of collapsing internally and holding the piston in the calliper on and then the heat kills the calliper. Steve.

Hi sounds like an earthing problem or the latching system is sticking, try it from the boot release on the tailgate but push the boot lid down whilst activating the release pad then still holding the release pad pull the lid up. Steve.

Hi Al thats nailed it if the throttle butterfly is sticking that would be your air leak [white smoke], take it off and try cleaning it I bet the butterfly is covered in black crud the circuit high bit is where its using all the power within its operating band to move the butterfly, which means it can't easily reach its idle protocol and will then stick open, worth having the gearbox cover off to check for broken gear teeth as they are made of nylon. Steve.

Hi Al could be the engine mounts as they are Hydro bushes these normally play up when they start loosing oil I know mine did check them out, white smoke is normally an air leak. Steve.

Hi wipe the codes and see what re emerges, the dates look pretty old or is that a quirk of your computer, sometimes the modules become clogged with redundant info and need clearing but if you clear all codes only the ones that are relevant should reappear, the headlight range module is a bit strange as I am assuming your model will have levelling sensors on the front and rear. Steve.

Hi how many miles do you do a week, mixed driving, town driving, motorway and do you know what the code was that put the light on, my guess is P2002 which is a whole different problem. Steve.

Hi some pictures may well generate some interest. Steve.

Hi the sealed bit is a load of garbage, they only ever did a sealed gearbox 2009-2011 with catastrophic results, Ford did a sealed box on the early MK4 Mondeo it was designated power shift and was a huge failure, when I asked the dealer when I first got my car at 38k the exact term was gearbox is FILLED FOR LIFE, then emailed Audi in Germany who said, No change the oil every 50k or five years, if you think about it all that high grade sintered steel flying about in a bath of oil with the occasional bit flying off which is suspended in the oil until it by force of gravity hits the bottom of the casing, now imagine the same scenario with burnt worn oil, believe me it wont end well, I change my oil every year and as you said add SLIK50 you can't go wrong with that and a couple of bottles of Fuchs Titan, new box [manual] is just over five grand +fitting, DONT GO THERE. Steve.