Stevey Y

Hi two categories in this one, A those who have had the info they require, solved the problem and can't be bothered to let anyone know. B I honestly believe he fell in love with the car partly to do with the self imposed kudos of owning an A6 until the illusion suddenly disappeared in a cloud of problems, I definitely think from the earlier posts that he wanted nothing to do with paying for the repairs but as the butchers bill increased he then thought about contributing to get the original problem fixed, then we had the well documented DPF problem, my theory is that he will pay whatever to get it fixed because he loves the car, as we all know its a costly path to follow but it is his prerogative, I actually think he is possibly embarrassed to admit that. Steve.

10/10 for effort Gareth, your patience and persistence is a credit to the forum. Steve.

Hi not anymore, they have made the sumps smaller [why?], watched a service on a 23 plate Citroen today it was a 1.2 petrol the sump capacity was just over 2l of oil, my mechanic reckons they have cut the sump size to save on oil during production but if you use their special oil £££££ you can still have extended service intervals also less oil means the engine heats more quickly, sounds to me like a manufacturer enforced fairy tale, how about less oil more engine wear. Steve.

Hi yes the fault will develop gradually especially if the discs have not been replaced recently, I have owned cabs now for over twenty years and regardless of make/model the braking systems are virtually the same just different size components , I can tell you one thing when a bearing is on its way out even spinning the wheel slowly you can feel the drag of the dried ball races before you hear it, discs on the other hand have on occasions plagued me sometimes especially when you get a local garage to supply and fit because I was recovering from an operation these particular gems known as NAPA, the rears were ok but the pads wore in record time as did the fronts with the added bonus of the front discs warping after 20k just enough to make noises no judder, this also manifested itself on occasions with better quality discs/pads but the underlying factor was they had done 40k hard miles, regardless of milage age is also a factor. Steve.

Hi I would tend to agree with your mechanic as most people tend to forget the fact that when discs get older they tend to warp a fraction say a few thou and baring in mind the running tolerance free is only about 0.5 mm this would cause the symptoms you describe. Steve.

Hi you should be able to remove it without the bumper removal, take away the plastic cover trim that sits on the front by the top of the bumper that should expose the top of the rad, undo the securing bolts and lift upwards the bottom of the rad normally has a pin either end that locates into rubber mounts on the H frame at the front, I would advise buying a new top and bottom hose as in view of the cars age you may well have to cut the hoses to get the rad out, the hoses are well known to almost weld themselves on to the connection pipes on the rad. Steve.

Hi if the relay is ok then you possibly have a break in the loom somewhere, only a suggestion but an auto electrician might be of service in plumbing in a new live feed, due to the complex nature of the wiring on these cars there are some jobs that are out of range for a diy repair. Steve.

Hi go to LLL carparts plumb in your vin and search for the part you require and it will throw up a diagram which should put you in the ballpark, my guess is in the boot somewhere, are you sure its the module and not the lift pump thats gone. Steve.

Hi you wont loose any settings if you go somewhere else that sells and fits batteries just check that they WILL CODE IT for you as this is most important, anywhere is likely to be cheaper than the Stealers, the charging while running was a good spot so if you get it in time no awkward supermarket car park no start episodes just dont pick the cheapest option go for Bosch,Yuasa, Exide. Steve.

Hi most of the dealer level diagnostics will show the fault code, the time it occurred and how many times it has occurred, I can't believe they fed you that B@ll@cks, you are paying for it therefore you should have the information requested, I find it hard to fathom the fact that you can't find an independent garage to sort this out, I wouldn't be buying a cheap code reader as they cause more problems than they solve due to limited capability of the software, Steve.

Hi that would be the high pressure valve the low pressure unit is way more expensive but I wouldn't be buying either without the fault code assigned to it. Steve

Hi I would first have the injectors leak back tested as if they are clogged or firing to much heavy fuel vapour that would cause bore wash which dilutes the oil. Steve.

Hi which EGR the high pressure one or the low pressure unit, high pressure easy fix, low pressure prepare your wallet for a real kicking. Steve.

Hi the only way to find out what's wrong is to have the car scanned which will likely throw up a code. Steve.

Hi it was a nightmare removing the cooler the first time a bit like a Heath Robinson jigsaw, two days to get out and a day to get back in with no undue swearing, by time three we had worked out the only real way to do the job with less time was to remove the whole front of the car and disconnect the exhaust and pull the Cat/DPF out of the front so you can get at it, thats what I did first time, cleaned the cooler and got a new valve assembly, guess what that don't work within 30k I had adblue crystals around the exhaust tail pipes where the cooler had corroded and the cooling tubes had collapsed, back to square one, new cooler and managed to salvage the valve, then 60k later replace the lot, YES I would advise steering clear especially as your vehicle has had most of its useful life milage wise why do you think there are so many appearing at what you would consider a bargain price, brain says luxury car dont worry about the milage, Audis are good for milage right, possibly a lot of the others Q3/A3 but not this specimen anything with an ULTRA badge will have the same problem. Steve.

Hi much as hate to wave my own flag, I only found out about these problems through ownership and accelerated milage using it as a taxi, that knowledge cost me dear financially and time wise, before I bought the car I did very extensive research on Ultra technology and it seemed pretty good but because it was in its infancy a lot of the subsequent problems I had as the milage rapidly increased were virtually unknown as most privately owned cars were no where near what I was achieving in milage so therefore had not occurred yet, my mechanic deserves a Victoria cross for having my gearbox out Four times for various faults, clutch, driveshaft oil seals, rear crank seal, [that was fun], rear engine mount, main engine mounts, he has always allowed me to view the repair and lend spare hands when required for which I am eternally grateful as is gave me a dose of the pain involved in fixing it, especially the low pressure EGR cooler which is what the P2002 is about, there is nothing wrong with the DPF itself its the cooler that exists inside the DPF with its own little valve body, this particular monstrosity sucks already burnt gas and adblue particles back in to the engine to be burnt again thus radically reducing Nox 1 which is running high when the engine first starts, problem the exhaust gas is much cooler the water droplets are larger so it forms a white sludge that blocks and rots the cooler tubes, a real night mare to change the cooler and valve and not much of a bargain at the time from Audi at £750 for the part, in my opinion the C5/C6 were better engineered and designed therefore returning this particular model will be a godsend, dont buy another one?. Steve.

Hi if you followed protocol and cleaned the DPF then reset the soot levels it wont show any history as you have effectively erased it, the software wont allow you to do a static regen on this model as they had to many problems with the static regens overheating and catching light you should be able to do a regen while driving but that wont happen either if there is no soot load, may I ask what leads you to think the SCR has been deleted, I can't open up the two images you posted so not sure what they are for, check the soot and ash loadings on your VCDS that should give you an insight into its working condition also check the running values for the EGT sensors, if one of them is not working properly that would cause the lack of natural regens or forced whilst driving, did you get any codes when the glow plug light was flashing, and how did you clean the DPF, if it was one of those acid sprays it might have finished off a sensor. Steve.

Hi it could well be an earthing fault or most likely a starter motor fault which is why it starts with a boost a knackered starter loves a bit of extra voltage, that's why it sucks all power from everything else on the car. Steve.

Well done that man, I have been banging on about this for years, what is this obsession with main dealers, there ought to be a name for it, if you can't do the service yourself find a good independent, they are just as good if not better a lot of the time, at least if they get a stumped problem they will tell you without all the we are waiting for a master technician B@ll@cks, they don't possess any, I would say over the years there are guys on this forum who could run rings round them, educate yourself on the type of service parts used on your vehicle, there is even a step by step guide on how to service your model on YouTube, other than than that leave it to the garage they don't use rubbish parts as they don't want you back until the next service and provided you don't fall for the myth of extended service intervals it will be all good. Steve.

That code is definitely low fuel pressure but being as you have already replaced the HPFP the only other thing it can be is the low pressure pump in the fuel tank under the back seat its a common problem as it is struggling to supply the high pressure pump when you accelerate hard. Steve.

Hi could be the crankshaft position sensor.

Hi I personally would change the strut and bottom arm with ball joint, from what I can see from the photos it hasn't tried to push the drive shaft through the gearbox so that would indicate an angled impact the chassis rail looks ok along with the subframe and from experience I would say when hit hard both those items would kink, as for the top turret you can check that with a straight edge with a torch behind it but I can't honestly see that being bent as its one of the thickest structures on the car, its double skinned, most of the parts you will otherwise need can be obtained from the breakers, have look at a company called Nirro they specialise in VAG salvage and parts and are pretty reasonable price wise, my daughters Q3 fuel pump went and according to Audi they would have to get it back order six weeks and £400 so I contacted Nirro with the part number and they said it was also fitted to a Golf MK7 pump which they had in stock off of a 30k donor so I bought it for £75 shipped. Steve.

Hi looks like it might have damaged the strut top mount bearing, the only way to check is to have it out and replace if necessary, that would make it sit out, problem is when the vehicle gets that type of angled impact its normally the metal work lower arms etc that deform to absorb the impact, as for uneconomical repair I would say most vehicles in copart are that but only because the thieving insurance approved repairers are skinning them for thousands, thats why is not economical if you are obliged to use dealer parts and £200 an hour labour, if you consider the dynamics of a car its lots of bits bolted or welded together therefore what is considered light like yours is repairable using some new mechanical parts and some second hand for the body plus possibly some paint, cheap car with a good resale value even with the category rating, I bought a MK4 Mondeo Titanium X as one of my cabs it was a year old and a category D at the time it had 9k on the clock all the whistles and bells Alcantara half leather seats Heated and Cooled, it had a shunt up the back so had new rear quarter panels a second hand boot and bumper with tail lights and a respray, I gave £10,000 for that and ran it for another 350, 000mls, a year before someone else had parted with just over £30,000 for it. Steve.

Hi thats not bad for rears, the car is very heavy so they do tend to suffer with shorter change intervals than say a Ford/peugeot which are lighter, just changed the front discs and pads on my Passat but only changed the pads on the rear, just discovered Meyle discs for the front and used Delphi pads which are O.E. so I will see how they go, had Brembo discs and pads originally and they did 42k which is not bad considering the milage I do [cab] and the hot summer which tears up brakes on stop start driving, unless you have already done it a brake fluid change wont hurt. Steve.

Hi it brings to life the old saying about the thickness of British Rail buffet ham, think you just caught that one about right.