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Sid2020

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Everything posted by Sid2020

  1. Wouldn’t describe them as a crude engine but a1/a3 will always be louder then there bigger a4/a6 big brothers as less insulation and sound deadening due to space and budget. Guessing the replacement injectors were coded otherwise they won’t work at there optimum with the engine but would still work at a basic level. Check all breather pipes are in good condition as this makes a difference
  2. I would think your main options are a complete upgrade to mib3 which would involve new mmi unit and screen along with coding or a aftermarket android powered screen. Aftermarket screens are great if you keep in mind there cost and accept the occasional glitch
  3. You may only have one temp sensor but it is common to have 2 on varies cars. Over cooling is something that we experience maybe once or twice a year up here in Scotland due to cold weather and partially covering grille is a quick fix. Is there signs that a previous owner has fitted a thicker core radiator or left some covers of an additional side mounted radiator maybe after a collision without realizing the impact it causes. Only thing I can think that would cause your symptoms
  4. Be interesting to run the car with no pulley and monitor the crank shaft rotation. Be interesting to know the solution when complete so please report back and even if the problem persists reposting with what was tried allows us members to try to help further
  5. If you think you have poor mpg have you checked the live data for the varies coolant temp sensors and this would be what the ecu is using to adjust fueling
  6. Might be worth using infra red camera or laser type temperature reading on varies coolant pipes to see what warming up and what isn’t, could monitor temp Into heater matrix and temp out of it to detect possible blockage, also show up any possible coolant valves not operating as expected
  7. Must be something else more series at play here, one failing is rare, another becoming detached so quickly raises questions on installation process. Back to basics first, check for end float as Steven Y says, check for play in other pulleys while Belt is removed. Have seen the alternator pulley failing due to the internal clutch on Vag cars and overheat the belt but not leading to a crank pulley leaving the chat
  8. Wellcome back, you’ve chose one of the better models to return with I would say. I don’t think any brand seems to be what they once were, but is this because governments and owners are demanding cutting edge tech that is prone to failure in any device let alone one that deals with the harsh demands that are placed on them like a car
  9. I was talking about presense and if adaptive cruise is not active then it should not intervene, i believe some models had other options that followed the car infront in a traffic jam upto a set speed but I have never came across it on a actual car. on your mmi rotate anti clockwise all the way, select that option, then push your dial to the left to access car settings, pre sense settings should be adjustable in there under a sub menu, that’s from memory so may hope I haven’t mis informed you
  10. Could it be a non return valve to stop fuel draining back to the tank when parked up
  11. Had similar issue on my a4 that was fixed by using rubber grease on the rubber gaiter at bottem of steering column where it goes thru the bulkhead, had to remove the trim above the pedals to get it, slapped plenty on working it in well, only happened in cold months
  12. Never seen a turbo failure stop a car from running before so every a days something new, I’ve had cars with seized turbos and severe timing chain stretching make them almost undrivable and still not have a single fault code which goes against all logic and also had cars with fault codes but appear to drive fine
  13. 133k and still like new to drive, serviced every year myself with a timing belt and clutch. Still looks as fresh as any new car on the road in my opinion
  14. Sid2020 replied to Beats's topic in Audi Q3 Club
    That should not happen, I would get that investigated as would be a MOT issue it it happens, it’s normal for them to Cycle up and down upon car startup but that should be it
  15. Crows foot Spanner attachment's also work
  16. There’s actually specialist sockets for this job that allows you to torque the nut up correctly if anyone is replacing springs or top mounts often
  17. Swop control Module from one headlamp to the other and see if the fault moves with it, could be many things but a failing control module or a LED inside the headlamp failing most likely
  18. Have you installed anything like reverse camera or extra equipment, likely that even thou it works the car is missing some coding of basic settings that the gateway module is detecting
  19. Likely not been connected properly unless damage was very low down as sensor tube sits in the bottem of the textured spoiler usually. If it was a insurance repair you can expect the garage to have to go back to the insurance to get extra parts authorized so may take a few weeks before it gets fixed but if you remain adamant it worked before the accident they will definitely fix it.
  20. Should be able to adjust the sensitivity in the cars MMI menu in vehicle settings. Think it’s early, medium, late. No option to turn it off as it’s a legal requirement I believe now.
  21. Had similar faults to this with my car also, I ran a forced regen on the dpf as hoped a dose of extra heat to clean everything out wouldn’t do any harm, worked for me.
  22. Unfortunately I don’t but I have access to abit more info which might be of use
  23. My 2 Pennie’s Worth is checking the heating element on the lamba sensors, can be checked with multimeter, they only heat briefly to bring the sensor into operational range so could match your 20-30 drive time. Ecu would be getting incorrect readings so would try to trim the fuel to compensate
  24. Leaving the steering near full lock when switching off can apply pressure to steering lock also




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