spartacus 68

Absolutely no idea Jay, selling cars isn’t my forte. I hate the process. When I’m selling, I like to have the attitude, take or leave it, especially where I know the provenance of the car, and can produce the paperwork to back it up. That said, this is an old car so will only appeal to buyers of a certain age. In my experience, buyers that start with “what’s the lowest you’ll take”, you discount straight off the bat. Avoid WBAC and Motorway. The buyer for this is probably on Gumtree or the classifieds in Audi forums.

£4-5k for probably up to 2010 plate which is on B8 and probably more desirable than B7 model (2004-2008). B7 are very desirable but in S or RS engine configurations. This will be very niche market to sell into - so getting what you want could be a wait.

If it was in a TT or better still an A3, then yes it would be rare, and collectable. Basically V6 naturally aspirated engine before they bolted supercharger to it. That said, they are still something of an anomaly in the A4. Depends on your car’s specification and extras. If it still runs well and doesn’t drain your bank balance fuelling it, just hang on to it. Price wise £4-5k (ish), but would need to be mint. Saw a 2010 version with rare manual box for £7k. Link here: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202509146320319

Before going to the hassle of dropping the headlining, and trust me it's a lot of work, then I think you need to rule out water ingress at the doors. As mentioned already - it could be the actual seal on the door rubbers is compromised. There should also be drains on the doors - check they are clear too. If the car went to Audi they would water-test it before they do any work, which is basically a technician sitting in the car while a colleague uses hose. This seems to make sense - as water finds the easiest route in. You can use paper towels, basically anything to show, especially along the interior plastic door trim. The actual roof lining is just a card template with material bonded to it, The A frame and C pillars are plastic, so seeing staining here is difficult. Unless you have physical evidence the water is coming from above - I would look elsewhere.

Front bulkhead plenum drains block easily. They are rubber grommets. Get a torch and take a look. You will need to remove the plastic cowl next to windscreen. On the headlining, is there actual staining?

Yes, potentially rear ARB bushes. No signs of weeping on rear dampers, or rear spring seats deteriorated?

Never heard of a roof rail issue as cause of water ingress on A6 or even A4 Avant, but never say never. If no panoramic, then that kind of rules the obvious culprit which I’ve dealt with before, however if the car has been subjected to heat, and I know there’s been some daft temperatures down south, then anything is possible. The fix won’t be straight forward, but leaving it, then you risk mould, damage to electrics, airbags and interior trim, etc. Wet seatbelts, is that at the mechanism lower down or higher up? The reason I’m asking is if there is wet staining higher up, you have no choice, you’ll need to drop the headlining. Prior to doing any of this, rule out blocked plenum drains. They live behind the bulkhead behind the engine under the wiper mechanism. Also check the rear spare wheel area where the space saver and amp lives, including both rear arch compartments. If it is leaking above, then you’d likely see condensation in the car. To drop headlining, you need to detach battery leads in boot, leave 30 mins. Most tools are anti-marr plastic trim tools, Torx screwdrivers, plus special tool for interior grab handles. You need to work clean. Light grey interior trim marks very easily with dirty hands, so clean tools, nitrile gloves, etc. I can post more details on the headlining drop but confirm some details first. The trouble is it’s labour intensive and most garages aren’t set up for this type of work, it’s really more a body shop thing.

AdBlue is something to be aware of, as tanks have inbuilt pump and level sensor. If they go they are expensive. I put in Forte anti-crystal every AdBlue top up. Run on premium diesel and change oil and filter every 5-8k miles, fuel filter every 20k miles. OTT, possibly. But I don't want to visit an Audi dealership any time soon.

On 2013 A5 you’re possibly still on Euro 5 diesel? I currently have B9 A4 Allroad with 3.0 litre (272PS) engine which has more than enough power. Your current car will be coming up for 12 years old and 85k miles. That’s nothing for a diesel, but jumping to the newer technology, plus the cost of a 2021 S5 model should be straight forward as long as the servicing for the last 4 years has been top notch. If it’s been on long service regimes, every 18k miles, then walk away. I’ve read a few of the reviews on diesel S4 which I assume is same engine in S5 and they were very complimentary. That said, they are complicated, mild hybrid system, AdBlue as it’s Euro 6. Obviously test drive one, but more importantly, if it’s sold via Audi franchise, then get their extended belt and braces extended warranty. If it’s sold via second hand retailer, then I’m sorry their warranties are underwritten by market and have a lot of exclusions, and are part specific, and daft inclusions such as service every 6 months or void. Also check out VAG Technic on YouTube. Constant stream of cars in, especially B9 S4 with issues such as needle bearings on rocker arms, this is on petrol models, but they’ve had diesel SQ5 TDI that needed engine rebuild. This S5 (17-plate) petrol diesel didn’t make the cut. S5 will have 8-speed Tiptronic gearbox, so practically bullet-proof. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Car needs scanned with VCDS. You need specific information regards DPF such as temperature, ash content, etc. if your spanner handy, it’s a great investment. Search Gendan and 3 VIN licence. There are other components, bunked up EGR, etc. Generic code readers are no use for this level of detail. On older diesels with emission issues, you could fill the fuel filter with Forte diesel conditioner, then drive it like you stole it, replacing filter afterwards.

Sorry to hear your troubles. Misfueling is easily done. Did it years ago, but didn’t start the car. Surprised at AA’s response. Depends on your level of cover. If you had Relay they’d have transported you and car to garage of choice. Bear in mind they are owned by private equity which is all about maximising profits, so not the ‘friendly organisation’ they like portray. P3338 is a generic code. You need to get the car scanned with VCDS. If it is glow plugs, which it could be, then they need removed when engine is hot. You can spray PlusGas on them a few days prior to removing. Also use 3/8” ratchet. The last thing you need is one breaking on you. Regards battery, it should read anywhere from 12.4-12.7v, it will read higher when started. It might not need coded to car on 2006 model. Modern cars have a lot of electronics and diesels need a certain amount of grunt to start them, so that’s one less thing to worry about. I’d also swap out the fuel filter. Not sure where it is on 2006? On B8 and B9 it’s under the driver’s side chassis under plastic cover. On 2001 B5 it was in the engine. Id also treat the current fuel to Forte diesel conditioner. It will help the injectors.

My guess, Ibis White LY9C. Call Audi parts on Monday and quote the VIN and they’ll confirm.

2017 after-market warranty, will have more small-print than Turin treaty. Leave as it.

Depends on your attitude to preventative maintenance, All my diesel Audis were over 150k miles and running sweet and that was based on 8-10k mile service intervals. On my 3.0TDI I've moved to 5k intervals. It's likely to be my last diesel, and possibly my last Audi, so want to hang on to it for as long as I can. I also service the car myself - so the filter and oil aren't going to break the bank and I'm not doing the same mileage I used to. I think because this is the first chain-driven Audi, then I want to avoid chain rattle, as that will be an engine out job to change plus the tensioners.

I've recommended ceramic grease before with red rubber grease under rubber dust sleeve. I'm no expert, but if it's good enough for Dave Sterl (You Tube) then it's good enough for me.

If it is the actuator, unfortunately it’s not practical to replace as it needs to be set up and calibrated which is specialised. The actuator can be tested with a vacuum pump to see if it holds pressure. VCDS may be able to show live date if you have access. If you need to replace the turbo check out https://turbo-diesel.co.uk That’s genuine new turbos, not remanufactured (although you can get them), Garrett, etc, at half the price Audi will charge for basically the same product, not including fitting. You’ll need exhaust gasket, plus get a new oil feed line, as they always leak at the union nut to the turbo.

At the very least I’d want air hammer/air chisel before attempting. I don’t believe this would have passed MOT a year before. At very least it would have had advisory for rear subframe corrosion. Eccentric bolts correct. Will need new ones, plus alignment after fitting. Draper 14173 spring compressors work a treat.

Most disc and pad manufacturers are producing decent kit these days. Unless you’re doing track days, then ATE, Febi, TRW, etc. Want to push the boat out Zimmermann, or Textar is what I fit. Yes there’s Brembo, but I’m not convinced the brand is still as good as it makes out.

Regards front suspension, could be anything, lower arms (hydra bushes), drop links, etc. Lemforder is OE specification.

Welcome John. If you're from the Western Isles, then your first job should be to Lanoguard the underside of your A3. I've got family from that part of the world too, so know all about the salt-air, and the destruction that it will ultimately do to your car, never mind the local council salt and gritting the roads. Wash the car as normal. Remove each wheel and jet-wash under arches, etc. If you want to be thorough, then remove the inner wheel arch liners too and make sure you remove soil and other road detritus which will be lurking in the base of the wings. Let the car dry. For any crusty areas underneath on the subframe - you can use a wire brush. Spray Lanoguard (basically lanolin) on all exposed metalwork except the exhaust and watch going near the brakes. A decent dry sunny day is perfect. Leave for a few hours to harden. Repeat annually. If you're doing it on your drive, or lock-block or such like, stick down a tarp first. If it's bare ground - crack on.

If you want to clean turbo, then you have underlying issue. Wynns cleaner or even oven cleaners are short term fixes. Only way to clean properly is to dismantle, remove and decoke. The mechanism will have carbon build up. Removing at exhaust manifold side can be difficult as it can be corroded. Inspect turbo vanes on turbine spool for play. Nine times out of ten you can't fix, and it's sticky actuator. If you need to replace, check out https://turbo-diesel.co.uk/ I have used before and genuine Garrett turbos, at half the price Audi will charge, not including labour. Also fit new oil feed line as it leaks at union nut and of course fit exhaust gasket. A scan on VCDS will confirm if sticky actuator, especially if car has gone into limp mode.

I've seen walnut blasting with garages including VAG technic and Decimal Tenths. There's a fair bit of labour involved to access the ports. They class it as preventative maintenance. Ultimately - this comes down to your attitude to risk, and course there's a price to pay. Personally speaking on a 2.0TFSI I'd leave well alone and save your money. If someone was into the guts of the engine anyway - then why not, you're paying for the labour anyway.

Sorry to hear that. No, ceramic coating won’t stop a stone from damaging the top lacquer or colour coat. It will protect against bird lime, light swirl marks, hard water marks, etc.

There's a diesel injection specialist in Aberdeen. Used them years ago - Airylea Motors. Very knowledgeable - they work on injection pumps across cars, marine, agriculture, etc. Had an old Audi 80 there years ago. Speak to them as the old pump might be able to be refurbished. https://www.airyleamotors.com/ A 1.9TDI is completely different to V6 in terms of access and how to remove. I used to have a 2.5 V6 quattro (150PS). Cracking cars.

Double-check here based on engine number + auto. Price will be prohibitive - so source second-hand. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A4Q/249/1/130/130025