spartacus 68

At some point consider getting VCDS. Cheapest package is 3 VIN licence for £222, pus an old laptop to run it on. That gives you lifetime updates and genuine HEX-V2 USB dongle. If you're running a Bi-turbo 3.0 TDI, there's a lot you can do yourself, to disabling rear electric handbrake to swap out discs and pads to priming fuel pump, plus a host of other things. Bear in mind - Audi will charge you £150 just to scan the car. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23NC.html

Yours will be a C7 if 2014. As far as I cam see part is 4H0898037, so the heater matrix looks around £300 from Audi. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A6/798/8/820/820020 I've not done this job thankfully, so just going on what I can see. Before you do anything, just run a scan with VCDS. If you're stripping out part of the trim - you'll have access to heater motors which often fail. This will show up on a scan. Are you sure the dash needs to come out? Quick scan on YouTube on a C7, looks like you need to remove the passenger glovebox, possible part of the central trim. I'd also remove the passenger seat for access. Pull the battery and put on trickle charge as there's airbag connectors there.

Difficult to say without scanning with VCDS. If it is fuel starvation, either the fuel pump in the tank, or the high-pressure fuel pump. If it puts your mind at rest look at Audi OE parts via LLL Parts so you potentially know what you're dealing with. Do you know when fuel filter was last changed? Should be every 20k miles. Not suggesting it's that, but something else to consider.

Well someone has screwed up. That's very concerning. At some point the wheel has been off for sale preparation and wheel bolts not tightened. Speak to the garage concerned and take it from there.

Car needs to be jacked up with rear wheels off to investigate. Check the rear springs. Our roads are shocking just now, and not uncommon to lose an inch on a spring. Also look at the rear spring seats. There’s an aluminium or steel insert in the rubber bush that corrodes. They are a few pounds from Audi, but you’re looking at labour to fit unless you can do the work yourself. Is the car is a Quattro. Look at the rear diff. It should be bone dry. Also rule out that the car is bottoming out, by checking the inner wheel arches for scuff marks. Get yourself a decent 2-tonne trolley jack for raising the car. The jack that comes with the car is just for a roadside flat. I’d also invest in a decent 1/2” breaker bar for the wheel bolts and impact socket. You can get rubber jack inserts to protect the sill while you raise the car. Look for one that has a slot of at least 20mm deep.

Another option is a leaking front windscreen, if it’s been replaced and not sealed properly. Take a look, with the bonnet open. The trim that covers the area directly below the windscreen is the plenum chamber. Water drains here through rubber grommets on both sides. Leaves and other debris can block the grommets. You’ll need a decent torch. Any pooling water here, then that’s a likely culprit.

Can’t find specific details, but this brochure from 2016 shows the model line up. PDF brochure By 2016, the Q5 2.0 TDI was available in (150PS) and (190PS) engines or 3.0TDI 258PS. All were 7-speed S Tronic transmissions. They need serviced every 38k miles, which is fluids and filters. Seems the 8-speed Tiptronic box was only available on the TFSI models or BiTDI on SQ5. 2014 models may have been different, and the top of the range 2.0 TDI was probably 177PS or there about. 2.0 TDI would be belt driven, so new toothed drive belt and water pump every 5 years or 60k miles. On 3.0 TDI, suspect it’s chain driven and good for life of car, however they can get chain rattle or stretch if not maintained properly. Pretty sure by 2013/14 Ad Blue was fitted to make them Euro 6 compliant. So you’ll have EGR, DPF, cats, etc. Car needs to have been serviced regularly. If it’s been on a daft 18k long service intervals, or missing history, walk away. Real life mpg, basically these are heavy 4x4 SUVs who don’t expect anything mind blowing, probably 40-50mpg in summer, worse around town, and during winter. The difference between 2.0TDI and 3.0TDI is power delivery and low end torque. If you plan to tow, then 3.0TDI would be a good shout. With all diesels, then they don’t like short run trips or you run the risk of clogged DPF and EGRs. As long as they are doing long trips too to help DPF regenerate, that will keep things ticking over. Use a can of Forte fuel conditioner on nearly empty and change the fuel filter afterwards (every 20k miles), plus Forte anti-crystal on every AdBlue top up. I’d also say use premium diesel. Do your research before parting cash. Also consider VCDS to scan any prospective car. This holds all fault codes unless they have been cleared. Very useful tool down the line if you DIY service, fuel pump, rear electro mechanical brake reset, etc.

Sorry to hear your news. I know only too well what water ingress does having come from a B8 Allroad and a leaking panoramic roof. Which leads me to my next question, does the A1 have a sunroof? Temporarily dealing with water by soaking it up and drying it out until the next instance will like cause issues down the line, as there may be convenience modules and electrics there. If you can do some of the work yourself, that will save money, as most of this is labour intensive. If it was me, I’d strip out the carpets. Under the carpet is foam backed insulation. Even sticking a dehumidifier in the car won’t get rid of all the water. If you don’t do this the car will have a musty odour down the line, and you’ll need more than magic trees to hide the smell. Invest in some tools if you don’t have, Torx drivers, anti-marr trim tools, socket set, including triple square bits, etc. Disconnect car battery and put it on trickle charge. Now remove seats, they will be triple square heads. Use 1/2” ratchet. Undo seat electrics including air bag wires (yellow). Don’t reinstall seats until everything is connected or you’ll trip error codes on the dash. With the seats out, you have more space to work in. If you’ve tried and checked the plenum (behind engine bulkhead) which regularly fills up with leaves on other cars and blocks, then water is either coming in on door rubber seals. Have you checked boot. Is it dry? Plenty examples of cars that leak at rear lights, or even equalising vents behind the bumper. More details required. What’s the history of the car, any accident repairs, sunroof, etc.

This type of work is specialist. A Bosch registered auto-electrics might be able to do it, but I don’t know any specific garages. However there’s Fife Autotechnics. Their work is more on mechanical side, but they do ECU re-flashing and software updates so should be able to help. https://fifeautotechltd.co.uk There’s also AV Adaptions, granted they are based in Aberdeen, but Adam is ex-Audi and specialises in Audi retrofits, so this job would be a walk in the park. https://www.avadaptions.co.uk/home There’s a chance the MMI is damaged for whatever reason, so that might need to be factored in.

If it’s a rebuilt transmission, it will be recorded on VCDS, potentially if it’s an exchange unit. In measuring blocks, then you should be able to see the mileage recorded on the transmission, vs the mileage recorded on the odometer which will differ. I would still ask Audi if they have any digital service record.

Sounds specialist considering you’ve pretty much replaced everything. What are you scanning the car with?

Unless the car has actually gone into limp mode, then I wouldn’t read too much into it. If it is the actuator, then chances are you’ll need to swap out the turbo, as the actuator and turbo are calibrated and the turbo vanes will have carbon build up. If the turbo needs replaced, then you’ll need a new exhaust manifold gasket and oil feed line too. They inevitably leak at the oil feed union. Clear DTC codes and see what come comes back. As mentioned, check battery with multimeter. It should be in region of 12.4-12.7v at standing, not started. If replacing AGM battery, it will need coded to the car. If you don’t have access to VCDS, then either book it in for a scan. Most VAG independent garages will be able to do this, otherwise it’s a bit of a guessing game. The garage or whoever replaced the actuator should be able to rule out the actuator with a vacuum test to see if it loses pressure.

Quick check on LLL parts, looks like the scalloped rotors, originally made by Brembo and weigh the same as a ship’s anchor! Part number: 8U0615301A and pads are 8U0698151J. You can double check that against the last time they were done, but they are expensive. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RSQ3/764/6/615/615050 Not sure when they were last changed, but for arguments sake, say 30k, then that’s another way to look at it if it gives you another 3 years based on average mileage. You really don’t want to cut corners when it comes to brakes, especially as it’s a performance car. Zimmermann apparently do rotors and pads for the RSQ3 (not scalloped). Just watch if you buy from Germany as you’ll have taxes on top too. Lastly, don’t write off Audi parts, ask for discount, it’s a 2015 car, they might take pity on you.

So 3 years ago. Assuming you’re doing average mileage, it will need done soon.

Car needs to be scanned to see any logged error codes. I agree, using oil is worry. Also, coolant, does it need topped up or is it discoloured?

If you could scan the car with VCDS that would narrow it down, otherwise it’s a needle in a haystack. Wiring under the seat is a good call. Usually yellow wire is related airbag module.

Good for you. Hang on to the spring. Roads are in tatters, so only a matter of time. I change droplinks all the time. They are inexpensive in the scale of things, but a quick fix for tell tale clunks.

Yes you need to remove the driveshaft bolt. You’ll need minimum 1/2” breaker bar and possibly extension to get leverage. Better still a 3/4” bar, but you’ll need the 12 point triple square socket. Always use a new bolt. These are torque to yield bolts, so 200NM initial torque + 180 degrees. After strut replacement, only torque with wheel on the ground.

Suspect 5.5 litres going by this documentation from 2020. This is for 2.0 TDI 40 MHEV (204PS). https://press.audi.co.uk/assets/documents/original/1890-AudiQ540TDIquattroStronicUKTechnicalDataNovember2020.pdf Of course there’s no dip stick, it’s checked via a daft MMI interface. Uses VW 504 00 to 507 00 which is usually Castrol Edge or similar long life (LL) 5W30 specification.

Audi main dealer is £200 an hour, so they are never as competitive as an independent. The kit including gasket, filters and 7 litres of ATF is about £150. It is what it is.

Confirmed. It's in basic settings on VCDS. Needs to go into service mode, adjust headlights if necessary, then store setting as new zero level. That's car not loaded, on level ground, etc.

If main dealer has a fixed price deal on S Tronic service - then go with them, otherwise there will be plenty of independent VAG garages that can do it. I'd also get the rear diff gear oil changed.

Wouldn't bother trying to repair the bumper. You can pick up a replacement Sportback bumper for around £175 plus £60 delivery. It doesn't need to be in colour, as 99% will undoubtedly be scratched, so it will need to be painted. If you can do that part, that will reduce costs. That means sanding it back, filling any scratches with plastic body filler and flatting, with various grit (start around P600). Paint wise, possibly £300-£500 ball-park for bumper alone. Avoid, however tempting, new bumpers that are primed on Ebay. They will be non-genuine VAG parts, possible don't fit properly and will be inferior quality in terms of injection moulding. Also ensure the second hand bumper you have - has the pre-drilled parking sensor holes, as the mounting brackets are already added inside. Straight-forward to remove bumper. usually Torx screws and clips. Rear wheel arch liners will need to come off. If you don't have skills, then put it to a body-shop, but will be easily £1,500+. Silver is a nightmare to match even with the correct paint code, so a proper repair would blend into rear quarter too. The other trim on the bumper on lower rear valance will need to be removed, mudguards, etc. That offside rear light will need to be replaced too - to avoid water ingress.

Audi-Sport.net still has an active B5 following, you could try it there.

Speak to Audi parts. I agree, Audi removing dipstick to rely on MMI is worthy of a future Darwin award!