Magnet

I’ll just give up on this! Interested parties:-be prepared to be messed about.

Thanks for the photos Alan, but you are still economical with some of the important detail:- Current MOT - expires tomorrow/ next year?! Recentish service history and when last serviced -? SORN/taxed? I’m yet to come across anyone selling a car who doesn’t know what they want for it/minimum acceptable figure. We don’t do ‘offers’ on here, to avoid members and yourself being messed about, so would your please state your asking price. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Alan. Could you please post a photo of the hose, and measure its internal diameter. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Roger, Thanks for posting your advert, but I think you need to list far more detail, ideally some photos, and lastly the price. Regards, Gareth.

Thank you for coming back on this Ants.

Please note, the reason given for warning this poster is not ‘ Not responding to posts’ (apologies - system error) but for unacceptably disrespectful comments. Incidentally, ‘Your’ should be written as ‘you are’. There we go, you’ve learned something new today!

Hello Ants, Apologies for the delay in responding. Personally, I don’t like warranties, particularly those sold by salesmen on a ‘only £x a month’ basis. Possibly pessimistic, but I wouldn’t enter into any contract without copy of the warranty to be able to judge the all important exclusions - of which there are likely to be many. If you are happy with those, then fine. Service plans:- if it were mine, I would just put that money away per month, and get the car serviced at a trusted independent. Main dealer service plans can result in say ‘ your brake pads and discs need renewing’ and that will cost you £x hundreds of pounds’ and you could well be tied into it. What is your anticipated annual mileage Ants? Regards, Gareth.

Mark, You are now resorting to being abusive because no one to date agrees with your views. Totally unacceptable and immature behaviour. I will just dip out of making further responses to your posts. Repeated good luck with it. Regards, Gareth.

Really no need to shout Mark - we don’t do that on here. Your car, your decision, your logic. Look at it like this Mark, you know the full facts, and if you only share that information with us as you see fit, then it makes it very difficult for anyone to offer you logical advice. Good luck with it.

Probably worth more for scrap/ breaking than the cost to rectify the issue. If you are not thinking that far ahead, then you certainly aren’t thinking about the whole issue from a logical point of view

So where did you buy your Febi parts from Tony? Ferodo? that’s why I asked him how old his mechanic was. In Mk 3 Cortina days - when you couldn’t give them away, unlike now, when they aren’t affordable! - The two makes of brake shoes and pads to buy were Ferodo and Mintex. Now?? Like Cortinas , things have moved on. Wouldn’t any longer be my choice, but…

OK Mark, but repeating :- What value would you put on the car when it’s up and running properly? Take it it has a sensibly long current MOT.

So it’s head off then, and replace at least 2 valves - they don’t stick if they aren’t slightly bent. New timing chain and associated components. Refit everything and keep fingers crossed that the work and expense has resulted in some sort of rectification. How do you value this 20 year old car Mark, when you have it back in reasonable working order?

Welcome Mark, How long have you owned the car, and how long have you had this sticking valve issue? Timing chain tension, and any chance it’s jumped a tooth or two? Regards, Gareth. p.s. Can you be more specific with your location please? Large country is the U.K.!

Let us know how you get on John.

It’s Brembo for me for brake parts - often bought off reputable sellers on EBay. Other parts:- I favour Febi etc. usually bought at competitive prices from Parts in Motion ( who also supply via. EBay. Let us know what you think Tony. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Turlough - how old is your mechanic?

Welcome Graham, Have you searched EBay, and registered your want with on-line car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - there are more? Regards, Gareth.

Thank you Frank, Your case is unusual. Usually,owners want to buy larger diameter wheels, because ‘they look better’! Ride quality is obviously important to you ( and would be to me), but in effect, you have bought the wrong car by buying an S.Line, which has inherently harder suspension. My money would be on the likelihood that you bought the car on ‘looks and toys’, which Audi translate into ‘owner also wants roadholding at the expense of ride quality’. One other factor to consider is whether your current tyres are extra load (XL), since if so, this will aggravate the already harsh ride. Please let us know.

Thanks John. Pessimistic possibly, but my gut feeling is that any garage would simply! replace the clutch assembly, at very, very serious damages to your wallet. Have you got a pal etc. who can first check the arm operation and give it a dosing, before going to a garage? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome John and thanks for joining. I would be suspecting the clutch concentric slave cylinder -if not cable operated - ( in bell housing), but the driving style association confuses. If it were mine, I would first be seeking advice/inspection at a trusted local independent. Another possibility from experience with a couple of non-Audis would be the actually clutch operating lever as it goes into the bell housing. This can tend to get dry and rusty and results in the lever not returning properly. Give it a good dosing with WD 40 to start. Apologies Cliff, I know you are anti this stuff! Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Frank, Have you worked out the economics of buying different size wheels and then appropriate tyres vs. having your current wheels refurbished?

Micro switches are often the culprit with these. Are you able to tackle this yourself if you know what switch/s are at fault? If not, I would be searching Classic car trimmers in a doable radius - they are often versed in issues with such things. ‘If I lower it (manually) what would that do’? The same end result as if you did it electrically! Regards, Gareth.

The all important consideration is the ‘rolling diameter’. You don’t tell us the tyre sizes of your current 17 inch wheels. Please let us have that information so we can offer you best advice. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, Further to the PM you sent me. Your video doesn’t work on my system. If all the entries in the service book are supported by invoices rather than card payment receipts then I would be less suspicious of lack of a business stamp for each of the service book entries. You tell me - in effect- you aren’t experienced enough to form a decision yourself. If I was in your position I wouldn’t entertain proceeding with any deal without having an independent examination of the car. Regards, Gareth.

Send us some photos of the issue Steve.