Magnet

Hello Clive, Many thanks for posting. Sounds a steal/ too-cheap-in-current-climate, for someone, so I’d be sure it will quickly find a new home. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, Although you don’t say, I guess it also judders when starting to reverse - up-hills being aggravators in both 1st and reverse. Obviously the car needs to be inspected and tested, so the forum can only guess at possibilities. If engine and gearbox mountings are declared sound on inspection, then unfortunately your symptoms point to clutch issues, but again you will need local inspection and confirmation of this. Clutch renewed 18K ago, so cannot be that?? Unfortunately, there are some poor quality aftermarket components available and for some owners, price becomes king, and the cheapest short term improvement is good enough. Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on. ‘Just bought....’ Was this issues suspected or indeed evident during a test drive? Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds good Mark. I take it you will not be agreeing to the car being registered until the new registration day of 1st. September. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I do indeed wish you luck, but resolving such unacceptable treatment should not depend on good luck. As I mentioned, I really think it would be to your advantage to take someone with you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, and apologies, for my comments on your duplicate post which I read before this one. Right, we now have the fully understandable story, and indeed this confirms that your ‘claim’ should be fully with the dealer, and not dependent with any ‘advice’ which Audi U.K. will give you. You bought the car off the dealer, and the dealer has to be responsible for such issues which occur so soon after delivery. Let me raise a simple question? Do you personally have any control of, or responsibility for the voltage of the battery of this virtually new vehicle? It is a near new vehicle, which has been correctly used, yet it has proved to be unreliable. So answering the question for you - you cannot be expected to shoulder any blame for this unacceptable situation. Personally, I would have refused to pay this bill for the above reason, and this reason would form the backbone of my strongly worded e-Mail to the dealer principal, and I would forget about waiting for any response from Audi U.K. If you find this sort of thing to be rather difficult to deal with, then it would be great if you could get someone who is fair, but assertive to deal with it for you. You should certainly not have to worry about it. In my book, I would be expecting over 14v with the engine running - 13.3v seems low. Also, it could be me (or the photo), but does that battery really look brand new...??? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I’m sure everyone on here sympathises with your unfortunate experience, and I think most would not have been as tolerant as you appear to have been, and indeed, to me, you posts echo an understandable concern and worry that things are not right, and the vehicle may let you down again. It’s possibly me, but I’m still not clear on some of the important detail here, and you don’t seem to be clarifying those points, raised on your other post on the same topic, which would lead to the forum to hopefully giving you some useful advice. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Mason, If you suspect the noise is generated by the auxiliary belt or associated tensioner, then simply remove the belt as a trial to test if the noise goes away. Kind regards, Gareth.

‘Yes, that’s correct’. What statement is correct Mark? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul. I’m now even more confused! So did the breakdown company ( whoever they are??) renew the battery? - rather than the dealer. Different story! Who now has the original battery? If so, it becomes even more important to know what make of battery they fitted - and you don’t tell us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well, all rather academic now, since the original poster hasn’t returned to the forum since he placed the post.

Thanks Mason. Still can’t understand the reference to being in gear though. If you suspect the drive belt ( Cambelt?) tensioner then this needs looking at urgently. Question - does this early 1.6 actually have a belt rather than a chain? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Zeeshan, Does depressing the clutch when idling, make any different to the shuddering? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, I’ve read your posts with interest, and must assume that since you wish to know about the much longer term actual servicing requirements, then the vehicle hasn’t been bought on the now-popular ‘lease purchase’ scheme over a limited number of years, but has been an outright purchase, and that you intend to retain it for, let’s say, in excess of 5 years. Is this correct? Kind regards, Gareth.

As a matter of interest, what make battery have they now fitted? As a virtually new car, are you really expected to check your battery voltage every day? I would have thought that ‘if ever’ would be more appropriate! It’s obviously your call Paul, but your discontent and the deemed-necessary payment, really has nothing to do with Audi U.K. (who didn’t sell you the vehicle, or charge you to supply and fit a new battery), but everything to do with the dealer you bought it from. To me, any procrastination in reclaiming your outgoings from them might be a backward step. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, As Brian points out, the response from your dealership is total unacceptable, and you may find that you will get the service and treatment you deserve at another dealership. If I am reading this correctly, you have already paid for a new battery to be fitted to the car and the labour charges incurred with this. How much did that cost you? Again, if I’m reading it correctly, you are now in exactly the same situation as you were before the replacement was fitted. There is obviously something wrong, and the car is likely to have a high parasitic drain - which needs to be sourced and corrected, and all your outgoings refunded. They must think you have just come up the river on a bike! I wouldn’t be letting them loose to even fix that bike if it were me. It sounds like a strongly worded e-Mail to the dealer principal is required here, with copy to Audi U.K. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. Just noticed you have a duplicate post on the same subject.

Hello Mason, Apologies, but I’m a bit confused by your description. If the car is making a noise when idling and in 1st or 2nd gear, then you must have the clutch depressed ?? Is so, and I can’t see that that can’t be the case, then it cannot be the gearbox, since that is then ‘disconnected’ by having the clutch depressed. Can you feel and harness or vibration through the clutch pedal? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Adam. Looks well worth spending on, and hope it finds an appropriate home soon. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lewis, Personally, I wouldn’t be assuming this is a gearbox associated noise until you get more than one opinion that strongly points in that direction. Trying to read between the lines, it sounds as if gearbox is being taken as the (possible?) suspect since no other cause has yet been found. I would be casting the net of investigation further, before committing to any wallet- scaring repairs to the gearbox. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, I think it would assist a sale if you gave an indication of the price you want for the car, and perhaps a couple of photos. Kind regards, Gareth.

Price Chris?

Hello Lloyd, Congratulations on your new acquisition. It sounds as if it’s too late to disagree with any statement regarding no need to ‘run the car in’. Theory is fine, but the fact is that any piece of machinery benefits from careful treatment following its build. If it were mine then this respect would be extended to the first couple of thousand miles, with gradual increases in engine revs and road speed through that period. I’m not sure of your circumstances, but it’s now not unusual for cars to be owned on lease over 3 to 4 years, so the ‘what the heck syndrome’ comes into play, based on any ill effects being unlikely to manifest themselves over that time. It sounds as if the car has been set on a Longlife service schedule, possibly based on an annular mileage being in excess of 12k. If this mileage is realistic then that’s fine, if it’s lower then service schedules can be set to annual. Although I agree with your views that not renewing the oil until the car is around 18 months old is not in its best interest, you have signed up to a maintenance schedule - which minimises the amount of servicing the dealer is obliged to do. Best for the car? - probably not, but who’s worry is that? It sounds like jump in and drive and enjoy, and not worrying about the longer term situation. Enjoy. Kind regards, Gareth.

‘Full service history’ is almost always considered to be king - a must-have requirement in the belief that if it has this then it’s a sound vehicle. if it hasn’t, then don’t even consider buying it! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Pardon my ignorance of the layout of your particular engine, but V6 usually equates to two separate cylinder heads. So if you are removing one? - to renew the valve stem seals, what about the other?? As I’ve mentioned, renewing seals on their own may result in only a temporary improvement if the valve guides/ valve stems are worn. Couple this with the question ( already raised) - how much oil are you leaking as opposed to burning? - would still lead me to question your logic of removing a cylinder head. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, It’s unusual for head gasket failure -in itself - to cause an oil leak, unless the gasket has failed (only) around the oil feed to the head, so personally, I would not go tearing the head off without some independent actual-car inspection. The symptom of blue smoke on the overrun is typical of valve stem/ guide/ seal wear, and if you want to rectify this, then yes, the head would need to come off, and seals only, may or may not resolve that, but from your post, it appears that the car may be leaking more oil than its burning, so I would be getting back to basics and getting some on the ground assistance in tracing that first. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Neil, There are many such companies who sell on-line and I think these are one of the ones who charge for delivery. In my experience, you won’t go far wrong by choosing which brand of aftermarket discs you are interested in buying, and doing an EBay search for the most competitive price from a reliable supplier.