Magnet

Hello Michael, I think Steve is at least being progressive in his response, and it could just be me thinking your response could have been less dismissive, and more appreciative. Let’s hope someone else can offer you the more meaningful advice you seek. Regards, Gareth.

Noticed you have returned to the forum Mike, but not yet answered the questions asked. Regards, Gareth.

Yet another Post & Run member. Why do they think it’s acceptable to waste our time? One possible reason - ? Because:- ‘All help is free, so why not ask, and I can’t be ‘back sided’ to respond to the advice someone took their time to help me with’. Continues to be good, doesn’t it?

Where have you tried so far Christopher? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Michael, Peel back the convoluted rubber covering on the harness twixt body and tailgate/ boot. Common point for wiring to fracture ,particularly during cold periods. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Andrew, but I’ve removed the ‘Solved’ since although you may consider it acceptable, there are too many anomalies remaining in the initial reporting. Regards, Gareth.

Sorry, I now give up prompting my suggestions!

Welcome Mark, and thanks for joining. Great question, so let’s hope the members can pass on their experiences. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, Noticed you have recently returned to the forum. Any chance you can answer the questions ?

Any progress on this David?

Hello Rickie, Apologies for jumping in with this thread, but if I was in your situation, I would ignore the fact that you were told the battery was pretty good, and follow the advice you have been given by Stevey Y. A 6 year old battery is past its use by date, and ‘pretty good’ is not good enough for these vehicles. We have always maintained on this forum, that the first action with any reported electrical issues, is to first eliminate the battery as the culprit. I’m not sure how your mechanic checked the battery, but a simple check with a volt meter is somewhat meaningless - it needs to be checked under load. Having said all that, I’ll dip out, and suggest you follow Stevey Y’s advice before moving on to consider other components being at fault. Regards, Gareth.

Have you investigated the routes I suggested John - by searching the websites yourself?

Welcome Toby and thanks for joining. Not sure if OBD2 would - but possibly. Mine was identified with VCDS by a small provincial Audi specialist. I bought an EBay replacement sensor, marked with the VAG part no. Looked great, and worked for a while before deciding it doesn’t like Welsh rain! OK it was <£20 as opposed to Audi’s £120 +but….? Does anyone have any good reviews on aftermarket reverse sensors? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Marc, Just a bit of additional in-fill information. Brand of new battery and when was it fitted? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Philip, Winding the clock back some 4 decades, I wanted to pass on an immaculate Morris 1000 which had covered less than 10k miles. I asked an auctioneer what he thought it who fetch - reply’ whatever someone will write a cheque for today, which will always be different from what it will be tomorrow’. As Stevey Y says ‘how long is a piece of string…?’ To boil down your description, the car had done 125k miles before you had it, and that could deter Classic Car enthusiasts who generally look to buy low mileage examples. The plus points you mention. My guess is you must have an idea of what you would like to get for it, and if it were mine, I would list it on EBay with a low starting figure and reserve that would satisfy you, and see where it goes. Car and Classic would be another site where you could auction or advertise it. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on - hopefully it will find a good home. Regards, Gareth.

Apologies for jumping in on this thread, but a special thank you to Mark and all those who are advising. It’s great to hear that the forum is being helpful, and that help is appreciated. Many thanks all. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, but I would simply gather the information off their websites, rather than depending on them finding the answers for you. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nathan, So if by chance a member on here did own it at some time, it would save you 2 stamps ( one for the S.A.E). Personally, I would just make contact with them at the. addresses you have. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nathan, Full information is king, and saves us suggesting ways of finding out what it turns out, you already know. Where did you get this information from? What is your location in the U.K.?

Welcome John, A forum search on here will come up with LLL Parts website for parts queries. Input your VIN into their website and you should find a schematic of the part you are looking for. It would then be worthwhile doing a search on Parts in Motion website, once you have a better description. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Sean, Not wanting to appear unhelpful, and I’ve said this before - it doesn’t really matter who else has dodgy brakes or other issues, you have, and you need to start a process of investigating why. If you ask yourself the question:- Would Audi have marked this car with brakes which cause you concern? No, they wouldn’t. Way forward:- if it were mine, I would be getting the braking efficiency on all wheels checked at an MOT station. This might help to identify the major offenders. Mileage? Service history and record of any brake work carried out? Has it been like this since you took ownership in Nov.25? If so, have you previously reported it to the seller? Do you have the knowledge and tools to carryout whatever is found to be wrong? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Nathan, Difficult! Can we take it the MH07 … was its original registration? If so, it was first registered in the Manchester area. Is that your current area of residence or not? We haven’t a clue since your profile simply show a vague U.K. To get anywhere with this, you will need to work backwards, and make enquiries from whoever you bought it from. Any paperwork receipts with the car that give you pointers? Guess you’ve checked that -? If you are in receipt of the V5 you might (in caps.) be able to trace where previous MOTs were carried out. It would be well worth ‘investing’ £9.99 on a VCheck report on the current registration. This will give you changes of ownership dates - but beware that changes of number plates is often mistaken for changes of owners. It should also tell you whether the vehicle has been through auction/s or not. Plenty to start with, so please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Easiest way to check whether the thermostat is a stand alone item, is to put your VIN into LLL Parts website, and/or your registration number into Parts in Motion website. Please let us know how you get on Dan. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Mike, and sorry to hear of your issue. As has been said - your symptoms point to an ailing battery, but interesting that you state you have changed it ( and coded it). Sounds good, but being a back to basics guy, I would still want that battery to be checked and declared serviceable before moving on to more costly considerations. Halfords stores will do this for you, and check the alternator output - which is low by your measurements. Just a couple of questions:- Replaced battery was new? Brand? Brand of renewed alternator? Regards, Gareth.

Have you read the information Eileen, and decided what you are going to do? Regards, Gareth.