Magnet

Thanks Marcus, So when you found it was overfilled, that was found by you physically checking the dipstick some 5 months after the car had an oil change service. In effect, it was likely to have been overfilled at that service point, rather than suffering from oil dilution during the last 5 months. Likely - is the operative word, since it’s now not possible to confirm that. For future reference, always check the oil level before start up on the morning after the service was done, to ascertain where the level sits. Re. Replaced oil pressure switch? :- can you please update us on whether that has solved your problem. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Marcus, How high was high - on a dip stick, if fitted on yours? When was the oil previously changed? Have you considered changing the oil pressure sensor? Kind regards, Gareth.

Good, but back to your question - why wasn’t it performing its function when it let you down? The only way you are going to get proof positive that it is fully serviceable is to get it tested. Halfords stores will do that. Get the alternator output check at the same time, since 12.3 volts is way too low. Until you get both these checked, sorry, but you cannot eliminate either as being a culprit.

How do you know it’s not the battery John?

Ok, if you tried ECP then it would not be worth trying Halfords, since this is where they get their parts from. A couple of useful avenues:- Enter you reg. no. into Parts in Motion’s website. Follow this up with a phone call (not e-Mail) to them if response is still ambiguous. Search out LUK Technical phone number and give them a ring. Be armed with your VIN in case needed. You may find that the DMF is a main dealer part only, but LUK will clarify that. Having done that, let us know the outcome Mo. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Terry, As you will know, testing a battery with a normal multimeter makes about the same sense as having an ashtray on a motorbike. Guess you will also appreciate that you will need the new battery coded to the car. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Terry, Tayna cross the I s and cross the ts . Asking for more information is not a sign that they are unsure, but more a sign that they want to confirm they will have it right. Kind regards, Gareth.

Just Unsolved it!

Hello Terry, Out of choice, I would buy the Exide equivalent. I used to buy Varta/Bosch S 5 grade, but now favour Exide. Appreciate you should go with what suits you best. Note, when asking for compatibility confirmation, Tayna tend to point you towards their ‘own brand’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Perhaps someone can let me know why this has been marked as a solution when - in this particular case - it still remains solved. Thanks, Gareth.

Hello Terry, Just contact Tayna or Battery Megastore ( both via. EBay) - there are more. Give them your reg. no. and they will tell you what you need. Why Autodoc? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Asnan Taking it your current tyre size is 205/60/16, and you want to increase the wheel diameter to 17inch, you have to ensure that the ‘rolling diameter’ of the 17 inch wheel matches that of your current 16 inch. To achieve that, the profile of the 17 will have to be less than that of the 16 inch The maths:- Current rolling dia. of 16 inch = 2x (60% of 205mm) + 16 inches converted to mm. To convert 16 inches to mm, multiply by 25.4. To change to 17 inch wheels at a tyre width of 225mm:- first convert 17 inch to mm, and subtract that from the rolling dia of your current 16 inch. Divide that difference by 2, and work out what % of 225mm that represents - that will be your necessary profile figure as near as you can get it. I used to work these out for members, but I left school over 60 years ago, and found it wore my brain out! Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Some clever so and so is now going to tell you there are websites which work it out for you, but worth giving your maths a work out instead.

Interesting Terry. Just can’t concur with the ‘someone born in the south of our country is inferior to someone born in the north’. In my book, it’s always been seen as the opposite!

Kev. is a busy chap Graham. I’m sure he will comeback to you when he has time.

Hello Mo, Where have you looked?

Why main dealer for an eight year old car Mark? Don’t you have a trusted local garage who can look at it?

Hello Paul, I’ve stuck with NGK over a couple of decades, and been very happy with them. I think Denso is another well respected brand, and others might come up with alternative recommendations for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dan, Since you are back on, did you manage to come up with the finer points, pros and cons, of agreed value insurance for us? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Dominic, Leaks, where there is no apparent outward signs of coolant, can be difficult to source. Yours should be easy, since you have evidence of external coolant leaking. Apologies for stating the obvious, but you now need to get the car to a garage where they will get the car on a lift, remove the undertrays and locate the source of the leak for you. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Mark, It will be impossible to diagnose the source of your rattle, with the sparse information you provide. Rattle from engine, transmission, suspension etc. ….? Can’t you have the car inspected at an independent or local garage? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Santokh, Could you please do us a kindness and switch your caps lock off. It’s much more ‘polite’ to type in lower case. Many thanks, Gareth.

Welcome Daniel, I think we have the same engined car as yours - the ‘older generation’ 1.6. You just don’t buy these for performance, so personally I would not recommend any attempts to re map it. Just leave it alone, and hopefully it should treat you well. Ours now has in excess of 176K miles behind it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, When you say ‘getting it fixed’ you don’t mean weld repairing do you? As I understand it, it is not MOT permissible to weld subframes, so well worth have a definitive opinion from your MOT station if you were thinking of that route. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome James, Sounds that the switch is at fault. It’s difficult to follow the logic of replacing the starter motor ( or relay) since both were working, but being triggered when they shouldn’t be. Kind regards, Gareth.

Are you going to return to the forum Simon?