Magnet

Thanks Craig, ‘…I will get a battery tomorrow…’. Please allow me to question that move:- Where would you intend buying a battery from, and what brands would be your choice to buy, and which not to buy? Compare …’ I will buy a new pair of trainers tomorrow..’ I guess if you were doing that, you would know exactly what brands would interest you, and which ones wouldn’t. Batteries on modern vehicles have to cope with high and precise demands, so replacing them isn’t ‘ A battery is a battery, is a battery. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Craig, 11.5 v is useless. Jump leads? Could be a high internal resistance through the existing battery. I would still recommend following my first logical step, but of course it’s quite acceptable to follow any other chosen route. All we ask is that you let us know the progress you make. Regards, Gareth. Note :-overlapped post.

Welcome Craig, First port of call is to get the battery efficiency measured. No good checking with a multimeter - Halfords stores will check it for you. If it is found to be substandard then your wallet would appreciate it if you didn’t buy a replacement there, but came back to us for further advice on how to go forward. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth. p.s. If the vehicle was bought from a dealer then they should pick up the tab, but I would suggest you e-mail them and advise them of your situation. Also get the alternator output checked once it’s running.

Welcome David, and many thanks indeed for your helpful reply. This now raises another query on Craig :- so if sump is cast aluminium, what is the extent of the corrosion? Some degree of surface ‘white rust’ (as it is generally known) is quite normal, so how severe is this on yours to warrant renewing it? A photo would be handy. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Craig, What other factors have you tried apart from Autodoc? Could be worth trying Parts in Motion and other major factors - if not already tried. Regards, Gareth.

OK, let’s hope someone comes forward graciously with a specific cause then Michael.

Hello Michael, I think Steve is at least being progressive in his response, and it could just be me thinking your response could have been less dismissive, and more appreciative. Let’s hope someone else can offer you the more meaningful advice you seek. Regards, Gareth.

Noticed you have returned to the forum Mike, but not yet answered the questions asked. Regards, Gareth.

Yet another Post & Run member. Why do they think it’s acceptable to waste our time? One possible reason - ? Because:- ‘All help is free, so why not ask, and I can’t be ‘back sided’ to respond to the advice someone took their time to help me with’. Continues to be good, doesn’t it?

Where have you tried so far Christopher? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Michael, Peel back the convoluted rubber covering on the harness twixt body and tailgate/ boot. Common point for wiring to fracture ,particularly during cold periods. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Andrew, but I’ve removed the ‘Solved’ since although you may consider it acceptable, there are too many anomalies remaining in the initial reporting. Regards, Gareth.

Sorry, I now give up prompting my suggestions!

Welcome Mark, and thanks for joining. Great question, so let’s hope the members can pass on their experiences. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, Noticed you have recently returned to the forum. Any chance you can answer the questions ?

Any progress on this David?

Hello Rickie, Apologies for jumping in with this thread, but if I was in your situation, I would ignore the fact that you were told the battery was pretty good, and follow the advice you have been given by Stevey Y. A 6 year old battery is past its use by date, and ‘pretty good’ is not good enough for these vehicles. We have always maintained on this forum, that the first action with any reported electrical issues, is to first eliminate the battery as the culprit. I’m not sure how your mechanic checked the battery, but a simple check with a volt meter is somewhat meaningless - it needs to be checked under load. Having said all that, I’ll dip out, and suggest you follow Stevey Y’s advice before moving on to consider other components being at fault. Regards, Gareth.

Have you investigated the routes I suggested John - by searching the websites yourself?

Welcome Toby and thanks for joining. Not sure if OBD2 would - but possibly. Mine was identified with VCDS by a small provincial Audi specialist. I bought an EBay replacement sensor, marked with the VAG part no. Looked great, and worked for a while before deciding it doesn’t like Welsh rain! OK it was <£20 as opposed to Audi’s £120 +but….? Does anyone have any good reviews on aftermarket reverse sensors? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Marc, Just a bit of additional in-fill information. Brand of new battery and when was it fitted? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Philip, Winding the clock back some 4 decades, I wanted to pass on an immaculate Morris 1000 which had covered less than 10k miles. I asked an auctioneer what he thought it who fetch - reply’ whatever someone will write a cheque for today, which will always be different from what it will be tomorrow’. As Stevey Y says ‘how long is a piece of string…?’ To boil down your description, the car had done 125k miles before you had it, and that could deter Classic Car enthusiasts who generally look to buy low mileage examples. The plus points you mention. My guess is you must have an idea of what you would like to get for it, and if it were mine, I would list it on EBay with a low starting figure and reserve that would satisfy you, and see where it goes. Car and Classic would be another site where you could auction or advertise it. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on - hopefully it will find a good home. Regards, Gareth.

Apologies for jumping in on this thread, but a special thank you to Mark and all those who are advising. It’s great to hear that the forum is being helpful, and that help is appreciated. Many thanks all. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, but I would simply gather the information off their websites, rather than depending on them finding the answers for you. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nathan, So if by chance a member on here did own it at some time, it would save you 2 stamps ( one for the S.A.E). Personally, I would just make contact with them at the. addresses you have. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nathan, Full information is king, and saves us suggesting ways of finding out what it turns out, you already know. Where did you get this information from? What is your location in the U.K.?