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Magnet

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Everything posted by Magnet

  1. Thanks Matthew, Go to LLL Parts website, and you should be able to identify it probably get a part number. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on.
  2. Take the car on at least a 10 mile run, then without switching the engine off, get an assistant to increase the revs. and hold it at a steady 2000rpm for 2 mins, while you observe the exhaust smoke - then report back.
  3. Thanks Shakinna, No, I cannot offer you any such guarantee. What I would suggest you do is to ‘rig up’ your original switch - not connected into the gearbox, but with cables connected, and do the same test as you did with the new one, and compare the amount of travel necessary to get the reverse lights to work - if they do. An easier way to check it would be with a multimeter set on ohms and just check for continuity when the plunger is depressed. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.
  4. Hello, It sounds like the bit in the gearbox which activates the switch plunger isn’t moving the plunger sufficiently. Aftermarket switch? Kind regards, Gareth.
  5. Diesel or petrol? Colour of smoke?
  6. As with any battery, it’s only as efficient as the equipment that recharges it, so yes, the alternator output is critical. What make battery was fitted as a matter of interest?
  7. Stop/start not work can be a classic symptom of a failing battery. I would suggest getting the battery efficiency check first - Halfords stores are usually capable of doing that. Worth getting the alternator output checked at the same time. It would be worth returning to the forum before committing to buy anything if anything is found to be substandard. Please let us know how you get on Charles. Kind regards, Gareth.
  8. Hello Lanerissa, Thanks for joining. To eliminate the simple things first:- Was the new battery coded to the car? Have you had the alternator output checked? (In that order). Kind regards, Gareth.
  9. Anything so far of any help to you Gary?
  10. I can’t point you towards any other possibilities other than a blocked filler breather. I would be checking this before delving into other possibilities. Does it behave any differently if you just trickle the fuel in (already asked but no reply), or indeed if you alter the angle the fuel nozzle?
  11. Welcome Gary, Have a look at current thread for someone wanting a front bumper for an 80 Cabriolet. Have you tried EBay?
  12. Thank you, If you had said, I wouldn’t have wasted your time with the suggestion. Your chances of finding someone breaking one on here?? Possibly another daft suggestion, but EBay International, as opposed to U.K.?
  13. Welcome. Can we take it you have registered your ‘want’ with on line car breaker link systems such as Partsfinder - there are more? Kind regards, Gareth.
  14. Hello Andy, So have you asked your family member to now sort it for you? It’s not really fair to override his work. Kind regards, Gareth.
  15. Hello Gary, So the filler pump nozzle cuts out (consistently?) when trying to put fuel into the tank - correct? Does it do this even when you try to trickle the fuel in by barely opening the nozzle lever? If these are the issues you are getting, it could be a faulty/collapsed beather pipe, or perhaps the filler flap isn’t opening sufficiently when you insert the nozzle. Kind regards, Gareth.
  16. OK, apologies for jumping back in on this thread, but I must stress it’s your car Oliver, and you are free to follow advice asked for - or not. The advice you have been given has been on the basis of not getting into any more complex possibilities until this potential issue has been eliminated. Good luck, Gareth.
  17. Thanks Oliver, So has the area Steve refers to been checked and confirmed good? If not , you can forget all other possibilities until this has been checked. So called ‘warped discs’ diagnosis is an Internet favourite! Kind regards, Gareth. Dave, p.s. Many - most? owners go with cheapest quote, with little interest in the quality of parts used, and an extra 20mins labour per side can be a deal breaker.
  18. Hello Brian, Is the car fitted with Park Assist? I would still be more inclined to suspect this is a sensor issue/connection onto rather than a module issue. As a matter of interest, is the car ever cleaned with a jet wash? Where about in S. Wales are you? Kind regards, Gareth.
  19. We take it it was the main battery rather than the fob battery -? If so, you should replace the battery ASAP then get it coded to the car - unless something had been left on by mistake. If a want recommendations on what brand and where to buy then just let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.
  20. I would not be assuming the fob battery is serviceable based on the fact it simply illuminates the red light on the fob. From the school of eliminating the simplest/ cheapest things first, I would be renewing the fob battery with a good quality new one before getting more involved. Kind regards, Gareth.
  21. Thanks for now letting us know. As a matter of interest, what brand of battery did you choose, and can we take it it was coded to the car? Kind regards, Gareth.
  22. Hello Brian, Apart from what you see on the screen, what reaction do you get when you select reverse - e.g. long bleep as opposed to a short bleep etc. ? Kind regards, Gareth.
  23. I would suggest employing a trusted auto electrician before considering replacing the seat - which seems rather extreme. If the motor will move the seat in one direction then it points to it at least being electrically efficient. Kind regards, Gareth.
  24. There’s usually a key hole ( very often partially concealed) that allows you to open the boot manually. Can you get into the car via. a key,,and if so I take it you can then open the bonnet? Kind regards, Gareth.
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