Magnet

Hello Naveed, As Brian says, but your description is vague. Does it always vibrate around 60 mph? You now state ‘…only happens first thing when I drive..’ How does that stack up with the answer to the first question? Same brand of tyres across each axle? Tyre pressures checked? Do you also feel this vibration if you brake from around 60 mph? Do you also feel the vibration through the driver’s seat? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Dean, When was the auto box oil last changed?

Welcome Lee, It might be getting over repetitive, but a quick forum search will always point to first eliminating battery efficiency before considering any other more complex possibilities. Battery efficiency checking is usually free ( Halfords stores normally do this). If found to be to be sub standard, you would do your wallet a favour by coming back to us before committing to buy. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Maris, Being realistic, the chance of the situation you refer to in your last sentence occurring ( with members on here) is so remote that you just have to forget that possibility. What is the aftermarket price difference in the DMF and the solid one? Not best practice, but if price is critical, have you considered a secondhand DMF? Regards, Gareth.

No shame intended Paul. Just respect for your wallet, and appreciation of buying quality parts at competitive prices. Recommendations:- have a look at Brembo from reputable EBay sellers. I’ve always had good service from Parts in Motion - if it helps. Regards, Gareth.

So could we ask what symptoms you have with this car’s clutch mechanism, and if cost is king, then do you intend simply renewing only part of the assembly - or all of it? If cost is indeed king, I guess you can by pass quality LUK/ Sachs components and fit other cheaper spurious aftermarket brands. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Being realistic rather than pessimistic, I think it’s a very tall order that any members on here work for motorfactors, and if they did, they would have to order both kits, since parts are generally obtained to order rather than being retained on the shelf. Having said that, you might find I’m wrong. Regards, Gareth.

Suspect door lock Colin, since this is where these things operate from - as Steve has said. Regards, Gareth.

Sachs - Under the same umbrella as LUK.

Hello Gregg, Worth searching the EBay system on the Continent, if not already tried. I know it’s difficult to source parts for these ‘modern classics’ , but I enquire with classic car parts suppliers on EBay even if they don’t actually list what you want. Place wanted ads. in the specialist Classic car publications. Worth wandering into your local motor factors, and seeing what they have on stock which could be modified to fit. Regards, Gareth.

Who said anything about being upset? If the failure to respond to sensible questions asked on here, then I’d be a constant state of being upset sunshine! The only logic I can follow from your request, is based solely on ‘cheapest option’. Since we now know your vehicle is indeed fitted with S/S then it’s a simple task of sourcing the correct quality parts at the most competitive prices. Seems a pretty simple bit of logic to follow - well at least to me. Good luck with that.

Getting fed up of asking the same question - which you are ignoring to answer, for some unknown reason. Again! Car fitted with Stop/start or not?

Check underbody and subframes. Some manufacturers don’t apply much if any protection. VAG?? So checking is necessary. Regards, Gareth.

So does it have stop/ start or not? As has been said, LUK is the recommendation. Try reputable sellers on EBay. I avoid ECP and Autodoc. Favour Parts in Motion for good service at competitive prices. Please come back with an answer.

Hello Maris, Your profile shows 2008, but you enquire about a 2010 -? Is the 2010 you enquire about definitely fitted with S/S? What brands are you looking to buy, and where have you searched so far? Regards, Gareth.

‘…..suggestion to check something? Yes battery - for the Nth time! Take the advice, or leave it Craig. The advice is free, as is the battery efficiency testing, but…. Water and electrics - disaster, but unless you have a quaranteed-efficient battery (and 11.5V is rubbish) you will be wasting the auto electrician’s time, and your money.

Simply bought on price then! Certainly not what I would recommend for renewing brake components.

Welcome Qian, This topic has been ‘discussed to death’ on this forum since VAG removed the time limit interval for belt changing. You should have all the answers you need via.a forum search on here under ‘Cambelt’ and selecting ‘Everywhere’ from the drop-down menu. Could you please do us a kindness and report back to the forum once you have digested all the information and made the decision that suits you best. I would recommend renewing the auxiliary belt at the same time- if you decide to renew the cambelt assembly. Regards, Gareth.

Bless you - out of the frying pan, into the fire! Seldom competitive. What brands did you order from Autodoc?

How did you get on then Mike?

Any reason you are not able to post a response?

Worth making sure your mate can code the new battery to the car. I currently favour Exide. Never fit cheap batteries! Fit good brands at competitive prices.

Hello Rob, When you say it has full Audi Service history, how many miles has it covered, and at what intervals has it been serviced? Regards, Gareth.

Apologies for jumping in on this, but why, why Autodoc? ECP next try!? Apart from having to pay post and packing as a disadvantage, they do seem to be good at supplying the wrong parts. What brands did you order? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Paul, thanks for joining, and if we can help in any way, we will do so. Re. advice on ongoing servicing:- If you have bought it from a dealer and it’s been serviced as part of the sale, then it might be wise to treat that service as if it had never been done, since it’s highly unlikely that quality oil and filters would have been used, in preference to the cheapest available. Our humble 1.6 A3 covers about the same mileage a year as you intend to do with yours, so I’m happy to pass on my regime, which has stood me in good stead over 180k miles:- Renew engine oil and filter annually even though only covering 6K/a. I only use VAG’s own brand - Quantum - and buy from reputable retailers on EBay. I use Mann filters, with the oil filter changed annually, and the air, and pollen filters changed every two years. Again reputable sellers on EBay are a good source, and I generally favour Parts in Motion for good service at competitive prices. If it were mine, I would treat it to oil, oil filter and pollen filter now, and use this as the base point for ongoing servicing. Just let us know if we can help further. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Rob, Are you intending using tyres currently on the 19 inch wheels ( if fitted)? If so, you need to take into consideration that they are likely to be XL rated if off an Avant, can you car will end up feeling every bump in the road. As long as you are aware of that, and the need to inform your insurers. Regards, Gareth.