Magnet

Hello Ian, I’ve not used Lanoguard, but have used Waxoyl. The only downside I read of with Lanoguard is that because it comprises of lanolin, the little critters and their bigger relations can have an appetite for it - and any wiring etc that gets covered with it. As well as Lanoguard, it would be worth looking at similar products by Dinitrol and Bilt Hamer ( spelling?) pbefore deciding which suits you best. Re. aluminium and corrosion - it does indeed corrode to white powder. Also it causes differential corrosion between any steel components it contacts. Perhaps you would let us know what you decide to use Ian. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks again Bernard, Personally, I keep any pressure washer under lock and key and well away from any vehicle. Some may say old fashioned, but I maintain ‘ look what it does to your patio’! Still, each to his own, but if anyone has seen what I’ve seen them do to cause lacquer ‘clouding’ very quickly on very expensive cars, they may think about returning to a hose, bucket and sponge. Snow foam?? - don’t know, in preference to Autoglym shampoo. Use of any alloy wheel cleaner blasted on with a pressure washer? Can play havoc with corrosion on brake and suspension components, but… Ceramic coating? Never done any subsequent bodywork on vehicles which have been ceramic coated, but I understand it can cause difficulty in getting a good surface key with subsequent over painting, but again …? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Bernard. That additional detail is enlightening. My observations based on that, are now as follows:- The car has covered an above average mileage over its 6 months ownership, and will have inevitably suffered from stone chip damage. Appreciating the car has been cleaned often enough with quality cleaning products, but could you let us know what your cleaning procedure is please. It’s probably me, but I’m still having difficulty in orientating the first two photos in your most recent post, and think ( assumptions are dangerous!) that the area you are showing might be the lower front bumper -? If it’s the paint chipping on this area, then I would consider this to be stone chip damage and not paint peeling, but I don’t have access to the car to be able to confirm that. Saying it as I see it Bernard - and with no offence intended - you seem to be overly concerned about the chip on the forward edge of the rear wing. This must be ‘damage’ ( how/where/when?) and I would seriously expect Audi would reject responsibility for that. The cill and its texture? now this would be very much the top of my concern list - assuming the photo is representative of reality. I would be wanting to check door gaps, door to cill gaps etc. since this could ( in caps) be associated with earlier accident damage. Repeating:- if it were mine, I would be getting a reputable bodyshop to assess the overall paintwork, before presenting this to Audi. Perhaps you could come back to us on your cleaning procedure, and then let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Calum, I wouldn’t think about it, but just do it. Perhaps you can let us know how you get on.

Welcome Calum. Worth checking for broken wires in the flexible harness section between A post and door, before getting into anything else. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bernard, Would you please be able to respond to the questions in my post? Sorry to repeat, but personally, I would be concerned with the appearance of the cill, and the possibility of the car having been damaged and repaired in that area.

Many thanks Matt, We can only attempt to post fact on here, and phrases such as ‘pretty sure’ should be avoided, since members requesting help depend on factual information, or inclusion of caveats such as ‘please confirm’ etc. Apologies for being pedantic, but the fact that you have never been asked to code ( or whatever term you wish to call it) it….. isn’t really proof positive that it doesn’t need to be carried out. That equates only to either/both yourself or the customer not appreciating that it should be carried out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Dean, and thanks for joining. I’ve seen 200Nm + 180 degrees quoted, but you would be wise to check that that figure is correct. The best source of information would be Autodata, but you would need to find a friendly garage who would look it up for you. Perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Bernard and thanks for joining. I think it would be fair to say that the paint and lacquer thickness on later model vehicles has been reduced to a minimum, and consequently, the finish is far more susceptible to paint chips and damage. Having said that, I think we have to moderate our opinion on possible causes, since we do not have access to inspect the car. With that caveat in mind, some of the following may apply:- The paint ‘chip’ on the rear quarter may have been caused by some object (or person) being removed from the rear passenger seat. It does have a rather non typical chip damage appearance since the edges do not appear to be jagged, but… It could be me, but photos 2 to 5 don’t allow me to form any opinion due to being either too close or too much flash reflection. Cill photos- that damage appears to be just that - impact damage but some object/s rather that stones. Again, it could be the photo magnification, but the factory applied stone-chip protection appears to be too irregular for a factory applied finish - to me. If this were mine:- I would give the car a good wash with a hose, sponge and shampoo, and take it along to a largish bodyshop, and ask them if they can give you a paint thickness assessment on each panel ( they would have a handheld detector to do that), and to give you an overall assessment of the areas you have concern about. This is likely to cost, but could prove to be a worthwhile expenditure. Perhaps you can fill us in with some background Bernard. Did you inspect the car’s paintwork before taking delivery? How often has the car been washed/cleaned since you bought it in June, and by what means is it usually cleaned? How much mileage has it covered in your ownership, and what are the road conditions like in the area the car is used? Perhaps you can let us have some distance photos of the bumper paintwork causing concern. Kind regards, Gareth.

Please keep us posted Alan.

Welcome Caelan and thanks for joining. I question your luck in finding a pair of these in gloss black - and without scuffs and marks. If it were mine, I would spend my money on getting yours sprayed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Bump.

Thanks Christine, The reason I mentioned to search out local classic car clubs is because there should be knowledge there of people who will do this. When your garage says it ‘desperately needs… ‘ is it visually mouldy, tatty or what? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Apologies if you know this, but this application critical bolt will have to be replaced with a genuine part, or as a minimum, a bolt of the same tensile strength. Are you saying these are not available at the main dealer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Christine, thanks for joining, and apologies for the late response. Could you let us know what sort of condition the roof is in on your 13 year of car, and is the eventual waterproofing required because it’s become rather porous, or will this be simply a maintenance task to avoid further issues. If you were to be given advice on how to do it, would you be confident you could DIY it, or are you really set on getting someone to do it for you? Apologies for further questions, but is it really important that whoever does it for you, has to come to your premises? Pending answers, it would be well worth doing a Google search for regional classic car clubs in your area. Perhaps you could back to us with some more detail. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Same with you Steve.

Might be worth trying an independent who doesn’t use xxxxland filters Paul. Kind regards, Gareth.

I probably shouldn’t judge, but the majority of buyers now are savvy enough to first check the VAG system for the service history. If you are not sure if it has been recorded or not, then it will cause concern in the future, and depends on your record keeping to confirm it has. Whichever way you look at it, buyers are going to favour dealer serviced vehicles during warranty, rather than third party serviced ones. OK, I appreciate you save £100, but that’s less than a coffee a week, on an annual expenditure or ‘monetary investment’ running into tens of thousands. Still, just one persons view.

Hello Paul, Using a third party to service the car, then asking the main dealer to switch off the service light? Some would say, it’s a little like buying a steak in Tesco, and asking your local restaurant to cook it. Thanks Paul, and sorry to chase, but the forum would be interested in the answer to logged into Audi’s system or not. Kind regards, Gareth. Overlapped post.

Any answers on the computerised service logging on the VAG system Paul.

Thank you again Ian - and the same request.

Hello Paul, I would suspect that you use Halfords to service this virtually new car - worth tens of thousands of £s, to save a little money. If your Halfords centre is anything like my local one, their tool chests are surrounded by a certain three letter national motorfactor’s own brand filters - emblazoned by a once respected bought out brand name. Would I use them on our 175K car? No, I would use well respected aftermarket ones, but of course it’s your call. Can we take it that they are able to formally record this servicing information on VAG’s computerised service history system -? I doesn’t surprise me that VAG are not making it easy to extinguish servicing lights, and really who can blame them? Please don’t think I have any support for main dealers, but I do think - for right or for wrong - that using them during the warranty period does give you a better chance of getting warranty claims sorted. After that, simply use a trusted local garage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Jay, I can understand it being a pain not using the AC in this weather, but needs must. I’m sure it goes without saying that the floor must be dried before any test can be carried out, otherwise it’s meaningless. It’s now my turn to assume, but I would be surprised if any AC drain runs through the cabin area, but an assumption it has to be. We take it you have removed and checked the condition of the pollen filter-? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, Thanks for joining and posting your advert - looks nice. Could you please add the price you will accept for it, since we don’t do ‘offers’ - too much potential hassle for seller and potential buyers. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello J ( could you please let us know your proper name). Looking at it logically, you cannot be confident that it isn’t the scuttle panel drain, until you inspect a them and confirm whether the problem is there or not. Anything short of that must be an assumption. Similarly, it is an assumption that the Air Con drain tube is at fault, until you prove it is. One possible way is to use the car without the air con on, but are you sure that the drain pipe actually run through the car as opposed to within engine compartment/ bulkhead area? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks you Ian, but could I politely suggest it would be worth turning things down a bit.