Magnet

Many thanks for being in touch Myles. If I’ve got this right, you had a ‘Service due’ warning which alerted you to the need to have the car serviced at local garage A. Although they serviced it (level of service?) they were unable/ ill equipped to extinguish the Service- due warning, and obviously could not reset that warning to ensure you were alerted to its future servicing requirements. I would be tempted to follow the logic of them being ill equipped, which in itself is a little worrying, since we should not be talking super sophistication here, but pretty simple diagnostic/resetting plug-in equipment. ‘Last week my EML came on...’ Time lapse between service and this? You then took it to Garage B? who were unable to even diagnose the fault with their equipment, and recommend you take it to Audi to turn the light off! Blinking heck, you don’t just want the light turned off ( it’s highly likely it will just come back on on the way home), you need to indenting the fault code which results in the light coming on. What’s happening down on the south coast - don’t they want to spend money on reasonable equipment!? ‘Before I waste money on an Audi specialist...’. Well Myles, it seems you are already spending money unwisely at garages who don’t know how to deal with these things, and whatever cost savings made to date, will now be swallowed up by now having to go to the specialists. Perhaps this may have been the cheaper route in the long run. Not wishing to be pessimistic, but it’s going to be impossible for anyone on here to give you any valid opinion on the actual cause of your EML - as much as we would like to. Perhaps you can fill in the missing detail gaps, and let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Harry, Many thanks for being in touch. In the absence of any other replies to date, my slant on this is:- It will be difficult (impossible) to prove to Audi that the vehicle they built and supplied you with, remains in its standard form. In effect, they can quite justifiably invalidate or dilute the warranty which comes with the car, since a third party has modified it (it’s performance). ‘Common problem’ and nothing to do with the re-map’. In their eyes, you will have to prove (in caps) that, and I would see that as a totally impractical thing for you to be able to do. As I see it, this is the danger of modifying any vehicle with is still under the manufacturer’s warranty - there will always be a risk of (understandably?) affecting the warranty. Let’s hope someone on here has a contra opinion, been in your situation, and has been successful in getting this job done under warranty. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back on this Ian. If all 3 (no sure where the extra one comes from) thermostats are opening at (an accurately measured) 87 degrees then they are serviceable, and taking it that one of the 3 was the original, then a stuck-open thermostat was not the cause of your original problem of a low reading gauge. Repeating:- you have to get back to basics and measure the running temperature to assess whether it is normal or not. If it is indeed normal, then obviously the gauge is reading incorrectly, and if so, I would suspect the sender - gauges are generally reliable, but don’t assume anything. Fitting of thermostat - Sounds like the one you have has a rubber seal rather than a paper gasket. Rubber seal arrangements vary, and as I said, some have an internal groove into which the thermostat lip sits and the thermostat fits into the block with this seal around it and the housing is bolted on - compressing the rubber. Others might just have a rubber seal fitted on the thermostat on the housing side. Whatever, as long as the joint is leak free all should be well. If you have a leak, it is ‘just a leak’ and that leak will not affect the running temperature to any reasonable extent. it really is back to basics Ian, and to retest my advice would bore, but it has proved sound with me over too many decades! Heater running cool. May not be associated with the running temperature, but could be to do with a partially blocked matrix - but that is an assumption. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, I too would have diagnosed an open thermostat based on your symptoms. Strange that a new one appears not to have solved the problem. Perhaps we can take this back to basics, and eliminate a faulty temperature gauge (more likely temperature sender) as leading you astray. Did you check the actual running temp. with the old thermostat? You can do this with a remote ‘point-it’ meter, or as I do, with an older touch probe meter. If you didn’t, then no problem, you can check it with the new thermostat. Point digital meter at the thermostat housing and observe temp. at which it opens ( gets hotter quickly). When you say you tested the old thermostat and it seemed fine, how did you test it? I test these by heating it until it opens then passing a length of cotton under the seat of the opening section, and allowing it to shut again when it cools. You can then dangle by the cotton it in a pan of water and gradually heat the water and note the temperature at which it falls into the water ( the valve has opened). Do the same with the new one before fitting, to ensure it works correctly. Gasket? Not sure on your engine, but the car is old enough to have had a paper gasket. Nowadays, they tend to have a grommet type rubber ring which sandwiches twixt black and the thermostat housing - could be either. Re. new thermostat - what make are you using? Leak at this joint causing issues beyond leak? Not really. So there is now a bit of digging and testing to do to find your problem, so it’s one step at a time. Way of fitting? Usually self explanatory, but you should find that the spring end points towards the block. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlie, Many thanks for the additional helpful information. The facts are that you have just bought the car, and it appears to have a significant fault ( albeit yet to be confirmed by your garage report). OK you bought it privately, and the general opinion is that there isn’t any redress, as there would be if you bought it from a trader. You will need to take professional advice on this - CAB would be fine - since although bought privately, the vehicle condition must satisfy the wording of the advert. So ‘...but mechanically sound’ equates to just that - and by your description of the faults, it isn’t. There may be a caveat here - for example, if you offered a price below the asking price and it was accepted on the understanding that ‘you accept it as it is’ for example, then that is likely to dilute your case. Also if your receipt ( did you have one?) states something like ‘...... received in condition as seen tried and approved’ ..and you signed to accept that, then again this can dilute your case. Private sellers often now describe vehicles as ‘goes, stops, steers’ or something similar - so obviously no comebacks. Sounds like you’ve got a bit to do quickly Charlie. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlie, Thanks for being in touch, and welcome to the world of motoring. ‘Not the greatest car guru’ - aged 19! I wouldn’t think so. Anyway - fact of life - the vast majority of motorists start their motoring life buy buying unwisely, so whatever happens from here, good or bad, then if nothing else, it will all be an addition to the memory bank. To be honest, I think any parent would form the opinion that someone of your age buying such a large engined car was not a good move - I think I would judder as much as the car does at an estimate of what your insurance premium must be, still, you have the car now, and it must be onward and upward, and sitting down and working out an action plan. Can I ask Charlie:- did you buy this car from a dealer, or privately, and irrespective, what was the detail of the advert? I’m really sorry to have to suggest this, but you need to get this car inspected by a trusted local garage as soon as possible, since you may have redress against the seller. From your description, my stab at it that you are likely to have (always difficult to assess with inspecting the car) issues with the clutch, and in particular, the dual mass flywheel component of this assembly, but let’s not labour any issues until you report back on your local garage’s findings. Perhaps you could let us have the additional detail asked for, and later, the garage’s report on the car, and no doubt we can advise further. I wouldn’t hang about in arranging that. Take care. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Clifford, There may be an issue with the micro switch/es on the key fob, and if so, that would have to sorted before any re syncing. EBay has been a source of replacement micro switches for some makes, or complete fob assemblies. There are a number of suggested procedures for re syncing remotes - some requiring one working fob, and you should find theses via. a Google search. You may be luckier than me, but I tried most of them without success, when I’ve tried to re sync. my spare fob, but you may have better luck. If not, then it will be a matter of getting the fob reprogrammed at an Audi dealer or an independent specialist. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Gaynor, I’m not a fan of buying cars at a distance, since teething troubles are probably inevitable, and it’s just impractical to rectify them with the seller. Having said that, I would most certainly be interested in the terms and length of their warranty, and most certainly wouldn’t be progressing a purchase without being armed with that information. The above limitations if anything goes wrong is realistic, but very often, seller’s warrantees can accommodate repairs carried out independently of the seller, so my first statement may not be as harsh as it sounds. Independent warrantees will be what the small print covers, but may - just may - only apply from the end of the seller’s statutory warranty, so some digging and caution needed I guess. Personally, I would be first checking with the seller as to what you are getting - since this will be your basing point - and who knows, their extended warranty may be as good as/ better than/cheaper than others you are considering. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Probably not my business, and a bit of a deviation off topic, but have you actually viewed the car before committing to buy? If not, and it disappoints on viewing, and a deposit has been paid, then I think you may find that deposits can be non refundable, unless the goods aren’t as advertised.

A good result Moria. Many thanks for letting the forum know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Could be a number of issues Delano, so if your mechanic says it’s the alternator then....... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, Tried TPS? Or registering with online breaker links, such as Partsfinder? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Thanks for being in touch. You don’t tell us where you have tried to buy one. Could you let us have some more detail to minimise the risk of suggesting what you have already tried? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dean, Sounds like you need to have the alternator output checked then, to confirm or refute his diagnosis, before investigating any other possible causes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gaynor, To offer warranties which cover ‘wear and tear’ is rare, and personally I would be suspicious of this, but..... ’Higher prices’ ludicrous? Well even at the cheaper end you quoted, you would be paying £920 over two years for this ‘insurance’. When you consider what you pay annually in comparison to insure the vehicle, with the insurer taking a risk on you writing the car off and have to pay out a total loss claim, these policies would not appear to be good value for money in comparison. You don’t tell us what warranty you are getting from the seller, or what pre sales servicing you are getting. One thing I would bear in mind is that if you are buying this vehicle outside your locality ( some buyers now travel hundreds of miles - round trips, to buy) then you might have to effectively (practically) kiss good bye to using this warranty, unless it includes a facility to get the vehicle repaired in your area. Is the seller able to offer you any competitive extended warranty? Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Alan, Try Googling Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff - Wales - UK ( Part of Mon Motors which were Cardiff Audi). They do offer discount on some parts, but whether they would be prepared to ship to Peru?? As you might know TPS (Trade Parts Supply) are a national U.K. supplier of VAG parts, and often supply at discount. You could try there as well. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. Although I could suggest one Audi dealer who will possibly give you some (possibly 10%?) discount, I’m sure you will appreciate that any saving will soon be absorbed by the shipping costs. I would guess you have some evidence that prices in the U.K. are cheaper than in Peru. - is this correct? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back with some helpful additions Gaynor. So if you want to take out a warranty to cover (exactly what?) for two years, you will be paying between £920 and £2400 over those two years. Blinking heck! What level, and length of warranty are the sellers giving you anyway? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gaynor, Many thanks for being in touch. Extended warranties can of course, be a well worthwhile insurance against unforeseen problems, but they can be a minefield. If this were me, I would be far more interested studying the small print exclusion clauses to find out what isn’t covered, rather than what is. Small print is indeed small, but the consequences are big. I guess this vehicle isn’t being sold by a main dealer (despite its low mileage). Perhaps you could let us know. If it is, then I would expect the standard secondhand sale warranty you will get will be more comprehensive (and extended?) than that which you would get at a normal car sales site. Current, as well as future economics come into play here, since if you are buying the car at a reasonable price, and considering spending £x on a warranty, then you could ask yourself - would I buy it at this combined price anyway? If the answer is yes, then in your book, you are getting your extended warranty for ‘free’ - so it’s worth having. You don’t tell us how long you intend extending the warranty for and what the cost range is, but another consideration might be to simply put this money one side to part finance any repairs. Re 21K mikes in 6 years miles and FSH? How many services has the car had, when was the last one, and are the sellers going to service the car for you before purchase, and if so - to what level i.e. exactly what are they going to do? - to some, a service will be changing the oil and filter. Good luck with the homework! Kind regards, Gareth. To me, it seems you (understandably) want to buy peace of mind, and there’s nothing wrong with that, so it’s back to my original suggestion of carefully studying the small print. Re.

Hello Lawrence, Thanks for being in touch. As a starter, I just wonder what your Audi friend recommends - ?? Anyway - fault with left rear sensor:- This could be a poor connection onto that sensor, or some debris on the sensor thrown up by the snow, so the first port of call would be to check there. If all appears reasonably sound, then the sensor may have failed - obviously necessitating renewing it. If so, I would only use Bosch if not using genuine VAG. They can be very difficult to remove. This may solve the problem permanently, but if the problem reoccurs then the signal to the sensor may be weak. This signal is generally generated by a weak magnet built into the hub, and if this is substandard then that’s where ‘replacing the wheel bearing’ arises. In reality, it’s not the bearing which is at fault and needs replacing, but the hub, which houses the bearing, so it’s a question of replacing the whole hub, complete with the bearing. If this ‘worse possible case’ turns out to be the problem, then I have used reasonably price Febi hubs to good effect - much cheaper than VAG, and seem to be OK. Have a look at the disc back plate if you need to change the hub - these can rust quite quickly, and may warrant replacing while you are in there. Kind regards, Gareth.

So let’s look at the positive economics here Steve:- You bought the car at near to scrap value despite it having a potential value of £600/£800. It currently works, so you have a bargain, for as long as it continues to work. If it packs up in the near future then the depreciation you have suffered will be minimal (it seems scrap prices are on the up) - not a bad place to be, since you could obviously have paid a lot more for it than you did. Everything is positive at the moment as far as the car is concerned. A local quotation for replacing the clutch will be at the other end of a phone call, so again you will be armed with all the information you will need to make a decision -but only when you have to. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neil, Many thanks indeed for the clearly detailed procedure, which I’m sure will be a great help to those carrying out this job. Well done you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Caroline, Thanks for being in touch. Unfortunately it would be very difficult to detect the cause of the problem without examining in the car. However, It would be worth you searching the forum, and I think you will find that (strangely?) some cars seem to suffer from blocked heater matrixes - and this could be your problem. On the other hand it could be an issue with the actual heater control system. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Leigh, Thanks for being in touch, and sorry to hear of your issues. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to say without inspecting and diagnosing the car, could be anything from an ageing, now substandard battery, ABS sensor or ABS signal from a wheel hub -or indeed a combination of these or other offending components. When you say ‘....it’s going in...’ , is that to an Audi dealer or a local garage? Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Aaron, Sorry to hear of your continued issue with the car. The most important thing here is that you inform the selling garage, in writing, (e-mail will do) that the car is still faulty and request they rectify the problem quickly, and at their expense, since the car is unfit for purpose, and indeed potentially unroadworthy. It is not your responsibility to fault-find the issue, or to advise on how it is sorted. Just as a matter of interest, I’m not sure whether your car has electric assisted power steering or hydraulic. If electric, then the switching on and off and the temporary sorting of the problem can be as simply as a poor battery, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Well all of this boils down to the car being worth spending on - when funds are available, and when the job becomes essential. Again apologies for appearing to pry, but it’s the detail which you now give us allows forum members to come up with constructive advice - based on your (in caps) circumstances. Good luck for the future. Kind regards, Gareth.