Magnet

Hello Ollie, Thanks for being in touch. The first port of call when considering changing tyre dimensions is to calculate what effect that change has on the outside diameter on the wheel + tyre. Moving from your current ( manufacturer’s original tyre size?) tyres to a higher 35 profile tyre, will increase the OD by just over 13mm ( approx.1/2 inch), and although not significant, is sufficient to cause second thoughts, in terms of effect on gearing, speedo etc. If you couple this with second-thought concern with the potential of your insurer being interested in the fitment of non standard tyres, then it may help to concentrate the mind on whether the economics are worth while. You don’t mention the load (xl/non XL) and speed ratings of the proposed size compared with the ones you have now, but these would indeed be meaningful. We take it your current ones are not run flat -? It’s interesting that you mention the hard ride with your current 30 profile tyres. This is a meaningful issue, and the downside of ‘nice looking’ large diameter wheels. It would be worth looking in your handbook to check the original specified tyre sizes for the 20 inch option wheels. Who knows, someone might have previously fitted non standard tyres, and you could be trying to match to that anomaly! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Thanks for coming back on this. What is the make of the original battery currently fitted to the car, and reputed to be crap? Also, is your vehicle suffering from any battery associated issues? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Naeem, Do you have an owner’s handbook for the car? If so, the relay position ( if fitted) is usually shown within the section dealing with fuses. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Thanks for being in touch, but wondered if you could clarify why you are enquiring about a (replacement?) battery for a 2019 - still under warranty - vehicle. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Marc, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. I would anticipate that since the car has almost 25 year old technology, that it’s likely to be reasonably reliable in terms of less sophisticated technology. In terms of value? Can we take it that you would not anticipate keeping this car very long, since you enquire about it’s value even though you have just bought it? Reasonably, it should not depreciate, and will benefit from low classic car insurance etc. if not used as your daily driver. It should/might appeal to ‘modern classic’ enthusiasts, but although the mileage is low in comparison to age, enthusiasts normally seek very low mileage examples for use as classic cars. My suggestion would be to look after it, use it and enjoy it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. It sounds as if your search can only be via. secondhand, and if so, it would be worth registering your ‘want’ with car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder ( there are more). These sites advise breakers of what you are looking for, and the breakers contact you directly if they have what you want. This may be pessimistic, but since you require a specific colour from a recent model, then this is likely to restrict your success. If this is true, would it be possible to modify the upholstery of your current seat to make it more comfortable? If so, it could be worth looking up a localish classic car trimmer, who might be able to help in that direction. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hydraulic power steering on this Ivan, rather than electric? If hydraulic then you should have a power steering fluid reservoir, and a belt driven pump - as Jonathan says. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tim, Many thanks for the additional information. I wouldn’t claim the air filter would account for the higher than expected fuel consumption, but I would treat it as a necessary basic check before moving on. It would be well worth checking the condition and make (if it appears near new), and I would also check the make of the oil filter - we assume that was changed by the seller. Whereas it can be a bonus to have the car serviced within the deal, it must be respected that a non franchise seller is likely to use the ‘best motor factor deal’ parts. Do you know exactly what items they covered in the service, and do you know if they used Audi discs and pads? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tim, Many thanks for the extra information. Re. pre sales service - can we take it it was it bought from a main dealer? If so, there shouldn’t be any issues with say the air filter quality, but I guess we are assuming (in caps) that it was renewed as part of the service, since it isn’t always. Worth a check? We really do need to get some other owner experience here, so come on folks! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, I think you are very wise in asking for owner’s comments before dipping your toe in the water - let’s hope that experience is forthcoming. Pending that, my general comment to would be to ask whether the ‘look’ of the car is more important than ride quality? If so, then ride quality will certainly be compromised by larger diameter wheels with low profile tyres, and the likelihood of these tyres also being run-flat, which in themselves, significantly hardens the ride. If you are ‘buying on appeal’ then it’s worth checking what you are getting in terms of wheels and tyres, before you add to that the inherent effect of sports suspension. I can understand the ‘buying on appeal’ bit, but in practical terms the appeal is directed to the passer-by rather than the owner, since much of the appeal factor becomes invisible to the driver when the car is being driven. Would owners be kind enough to help Tim out with their experiences? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tim, Pardon my ignorance of your particular engine, but is this close to 3 litre? It’s disappointing that no one has yet come forward to share their experience - come on folks, help Tim out. Pending some response Tim, I take it the car is well serviced in terms of air filters etc. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Roger, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. ‘Downsizing’ wheels is a fairly rare choice, but understandable in my book, if you are looking to improve the ride quality. Downsizing by two inches is a fair decrease though, Having said that, I guess you appreciate that the tyre profile will need to be increased to ensure the outside diameter of your proposed 18 inch wheel + tyre, will be equal to that of your current 20 inch. One other point - you will need to check if 18 inch wheels were listed as an option on your model year. If so, no problem, but if not, you will need to inform your insurers that you have fitted non-standard wheels. Appreciate the above does not answer your question about off set, but I would expect that if 18 inch wheels were an option then they are likely to be a straightforward fit. Of course, if you are thinking of aftermarket wheels then this information is of importance. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Glyn, Many thanks for being in touch. I would share your potential (understandable) difficulties in obtaining Y rated winter tyres. Y speed rated tyres are capable of withstanding speeds in excess of 160 mph, and it would be difficult to imaging why anyone would be thinking about driving at over twice the legal limit on snow and ice! - particularly around the beautiful rural lanes of Shropshire. Kind regards, Gareth.

What colour and what side Gerry, incase someone on here comes across anything?

Hello Olumide, It’s probably me, but I’m not following the logic of your statement. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bradley, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and for sharing your experience with your tyres. I too would certainly consider your tyre wear rate to be (grossly) excessive, particularly since most of your mileage has been on motorways. Couple this with previous experience of getting a normally acceptable 17.5k, and it must be concluded that there is something ‘different’ about these tyres - as opposed to your driving style. Wonder if you would like to share what make they are Bradley. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kenneth, Many thanks for being in touch and sharing your experience. As a matter of interest, are you talking about a genuine Audi replacement pump here? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jose, Many thanks for being in touch, and sorry to hear you have been in difficulties with your foot, and I can understand your need to change to an automatic. I would be say that unfortunately, it would be totally uneconomic to convert your current manual to automatic. The car is 8 years old, and if it was practical, the cost would outweigh the value of the car. I would say you would be best to discount the idea, and start looking for a comparable auto model, and set about selling yours. Hope the economics doesn’t disappoint too much. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ewelina, Thanks for being in touch, and sorry to hear you are having issues with ‘stray’ rodents. Although I can understand you thinking that the Audi dealer’s quote is expensive, I think it’s worth bearing in mind that their labour charges are likely to be in excess of £100/hr ( not inc. VAT?). If you consider that, and the fact that they are unlikely to have a recorded scheduled time for this repair, then it may not be as unreasonable as you might first think. If this were mine, I would be seeking advice/quotation from a trusted local auto electrician, and you might find his quote may be lower. However, my overriding concern would be to eradicate these rodents (where do you park the car overnight?) since they can do untold damage to any part of a vehicle they take a fancy to, and although £315 may be an expensive bill to contend with, I think you could find yourself open to much more expensive bills, if you don’t sort out the primarily cause with some urgency. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Pete, I would suggest you first need to/get somebody carefully inspect the linkage mechanisms, looking for wear or points which would benefit from some cleaning and lubricating. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Pete, Your last post refers to the test with the engine switched off and the clutch depressed?

Many thanks for being in touch David. I think you are making a wise move in opting for the Longlife service schedule since it seems you will be covering >25k miles a year. My stab at the service intervals would be that it’s likely to run to 9 months (generally c18k intervals). What I would point out is that Audi are likely to recommend the replacements of certain wear items based on the ‘before next time they see it’ it will need doing, so you could find yourself say changing brake pads etc. before they come near to acceptable limits. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Pete, Sorry to keep asking questions, but does the change seem notchy when you you move the lever (with clutch depressed ) with engine off - between changes? This would be useful to point towards a worn/ needing adjustment selector rod mechanism, or an actual clutch issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

No problem David - we’ve got the picture now (pardon the intended pun!)

OK, so just one label, and the pressures against the XL tyre were initially missed.