Magnet

I did mention fuel associated Greg. New sensor to be fitted. Question what make sensor is going to be fitted, or you could end up worse off. There are some pretty dodgy sensors available. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Akbar, Thanks for joining and posting your issue. This sounds typical of inherently low oil pressure, which of course will be at its lowest at tick over once the oil has reached its operating temperature. If so, the following is likely to occur:- Car starts from cold and oil pressure light goes out and no ‘low…’ message. You can travel up to a few miles and no message at tick over. Message appears at tick over after a few miles have been covered. Message less likely to come up following an oil change. Probably causes:- Operating oil pressure is indeed low, and should be checked without delay, and if confirmed to be low, you have oil pump/ bearing wear issues. You must have the pressure checked only after the oil has reached operating temperature, and not just when the coolant has reached temperature - two very different situations. Oil pressure sensor is at fault. Best to hope that this is the cause. Perhaps you can keep us informed as things proceed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dee, Am I right in thinking that this work has been paid for in advance of being done - or at best - has been sanctioned to be done at the quoted price? If so, it sounds as if any advice re. alternative quotes are too late, and now you are simply asking if the car should be disposed of after spending that money. Perhaps you could clarify. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, What was the Advisory notice wording about the front springs? If they have fractured near the ends then they will sit lower, and cause the rear to sit higher, so wording and investigation is important. Kind regards, Gareth.

Let us know what price you want for them Mark, and where you are located in the U.K. Also good to know if you are prepared to post them or not. It’s far easier for you to tell forum members, than for them to have to refer to Gumtree. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Aineias, Changing to Michelin might help a bit, but pessimistically, I believe you are suffering from the S Line specification’s characteristics, and any (if any) improvement, could be marginal. Worth a try if you have to renew your tyres. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Mick, Starline are an ‘EPC exclusive’ and their cheapest brand, and I can only quote from one of their delivery drivers who said to me that he wouldn’t fit any Starline product to his car! They may be the correct fitment, but to Audi’s specification?? I might, and probably will!, be blown out of the water, with this opinion, but… For me, I stick with brands such as Febi for aftermarket, and I’m seldom tempted by EPC’s big discount offers on sometimes inflated retail prices. I have used Car Parts in Motion quite a bit ( no connection, and there are obviously a far greater choice). They have usually provided the service I require at a competitive price. Back to your original question:- Would I put my money on renewing your shock absorbers and all will be well again? No I wouldn’t. Would I alternatively replace the springs in the hope of an improvement ? That would be my preferred option, but I could be wrong Mick, and I’m conscious that it’s not my money. Perhaps you could update us when decisions are made. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mick, Thanks for joining and posting your plea. Your shock absorbers are 12 years old and likely to be passed their best, but… The ECP springs maybe the correct ECP one for your car, in terms of dimension and fitment, but does the story end there -? The springs still may not necessarily be what they should be in terms of their compressibility- yes, guess, but this could be the case. Personally, I would want you to change the shock absorbers, only to find this doesn’t return the ride to where it was. What brand of springs did you buy from ECP? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Its probably me, but I think a recap might help here, and this is my stab at it:- ( some is assumption, and all open to correction) Coolant always had,and still does, heat up sensibly to normal temperature. Your fan always remained off (as it generally should do) and you had no reason to suspect an issue, until the fan didn’t come on during an MOT test - as you believe it should have -? It now stay on continuously following you renewing components. You have now renewed the fan unit, and it’s control module, and it now stays on continuously -? Did you change both items at the same time -? If so, this is not my convention of ‘change one thing at a time and test’. Worth replacing one of the two items at a time with the old units -? Is there a coolant temperature sensor on the radiator which senses an over-heat and then activates the fan? If so, is this at fault and remains closed-curcuit even when it shouldn’t be? Anyway, I digress when I’m not really sure about the history of the issue. Can you do us a kindness Chris, and re-post this on a timeline basis, also clarifying what I’ve written/question. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Aineias, Thanks for joining and posting your plea. I’m not sure how much of this is going to help:- but… S Line has sports suspension so will have an inherently harsher ride, and will be biased towards road holding rather than comfort. As I see it - and I could be wrong - this package comes with equipment that is attractive/ appeals, but the package has a compromised ride quality if comfort is your bag. 18 inch wheels are ‘mild’, and should give as near to ‘best for specification’ ride as possible, so down sizing to 17 inch may still not show you significant improvement, since you now have a rather generous 50 profile set up. That profile will have to increase if you downsize to 17 inch, and you may find it difficult to find tyres of a bigger profile than 50 anyway. Were 17 inch wheels a specified option for your vehicle? Handbook should clarify. Questions re. existing tyres - Are they ‘extra load’. (XL) tyres? If so, the sidewalls can be harder than non-XL. Are these tyres ‘Run Flat’ by any chance? Again adverse affect on ride quality due to sidewall strength. Perhaps you could come back to us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, ’..will naturally settle..etc…’ is rubbish. If they ‘settle’, then why don’t they continually settle, until a point where the tyre touches the arch? Springs are designed to compress under load, and return to their unladened condition once the load is removed. Yes, given many years of use, they will compress a little, but that will take years not weeks. You have been subjected to ‘receptionist speak’. Reverting:- you have to find the correct figure I mentioned in my first post, and once armed with this, you can accurately determine whether your new set up is within tolerance - or not - and anything else is simply conjecture until you do that. You should be able to find this somewhere on a Google search, but best to e-Mail Audi your VIN and ask them the specific question. Perhaps you can come back to us Sam. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. As I think may have been mentioned, your old springs may have fractured close to the ends, thereby decreasing the ride height. Alternatively, the vehicle may have been used to regularly carry heavy roads before your ownership, and have indeed compressed with some years of ladened use - but again all conjecture.

Hello Sam, Thanks for being in touch. Who fitted your new springs for you , and if not a main dealer, were genuine Audi parts used, and if not - indeed the correct replacement fitment? There will be an unladen ‘distance’ measurement ( taken on level ground) from the wheel centre to the underside of the wheel arch, and this will have a specified tolerance. Sorry, what measurement is? - but your Audi dealer will know, or indeed you may well find it on a Google search. If all else fails - you can always measure another example of the same model. Perhaps you can colour in there detail for us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry Anthony - don’t know what you are talking about. Could you come back to us with what your question is actually about?

Hello James, Is the car wearing its tyres unevenly, and if so which ones are wearing most, and where? I notice the car is just two years old, so it would be helpful to know what mileage it has covered to result in the alignment being out at this stage. With regard to settings, you shouldn’t have to concern yourself with these, since the operator should have the necessary data and tolerance figures, within their system. If they haven’t - worry! It is likely to prove difficult to get recommendations in your, or indeed any area, but you never know. As it turns out, in my area, I have confidence in my local ATS, not because they have the most sophisticated equipment, but just because you can talk things through with them, and I have confidence in them. Others may point out they wouldn’t use their local outlet, and opinions and experience will vary. What I have found is that a garage may have the most up to date equipment, but the ability/interest to use it properly?? Perhaps you can come back to us James. Kind regards, Gareth.

Price Waqas please? Kind regards, Gareth.

Price please Phil? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Munith, It’s probably me, but I’m rather confused unless when you originally posted, your mention of ‘the AA’, you weren’t referring to the ‘AA’ as most people would have interpreted, but indeed Audi Assist -? as you now mention in your second post. Also, you say Audi Assist has taken the car to a ‘repair centre’ - what sort of repair centre?? Surely this didn’t-get-you-home-less-than-100-miles-from-new car should be in the hands of the Audi dealer who sold you this new car - not some (independent?) ‘repair centre’. Sorry Mumith, this simply doesn’t add up to me, unless there is more detail - between breakdown and now - which you haven’t yet disclosed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Well worth posting your ‘want’ on on-line breaker link sites, such as Partsfinder etc.etc. Kind regards, Gareth.

As I say James, the economics is really based on your circumstances, the car’s overall condition, and its ‘worth-to-you’. You may need to temper this with the hassle factor of repairing, and the (perhaps surprising in relation to purchase price) price the car may realise as-is, in say an EBay sale. Sounds like you will need to give this a few coats of thinking about. Good luck with whatever you decide. Kind regards, Gareth.m

Hello Ian, Sorry to hear you have a created issue with the attempts to carryout your fluid change. Too late now, but I think usual change convention is 75k miles and not 75klms. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, So has this 4 year old car covered 60k klms yet? I could well be wrong, but I would have thought that c40kish miles was rather premature. I’m open to other opinions, but if this were mine, I would certainly do a proper job of it ( when necessary) and change the filters and the full fluid volume. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, Many thanks for posting your advert. I wonder if you could add far more detail about the car, some photos, and what price you require for it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Cliff has boxed this up, and there’s little to add except perhaps:- Economics of spending c£1,500 on a 14 year old car? Pre-Covid - probably not, but since cars have significantly increased in price since, then possibly not. Of course James, you will know its general condition and its worth-to-you. I don’t think there are many vehicles with non-interference engines these days. Even at a slow tick over of 600 rpm, an engine will have rotated 10 times in 1 second - so no chance of avoiding damage. 100k lifespan on a chain would be reasonable, but 14 years of relatively high degree of stops and starts, puts a fair strain on chains and tensioners, so I too would be asking Cliff’s question about any evidence of chain rattle on start up in recent times -? Good luck, and kind regards, Gareth.

Doesn’t all of this suggest caliper associated issues, or is this too old-hat and simplistic? Kind regards, Gareth.

You are very welcome Tony. With a mileage that low, it puts me in mind of a local comedian who said his brother was a long distance lorry driver on the Isle of Wight! Kind regards, Gareth.