Magnet

Hello Roy, Apologies for suggesting routes you have already been down, but I have also included are a couple of additional ideas. If this were mine, I would be looking up commercial vehicle factors and paying them a visit armed with your defective pipe. They are likely to point you in the direction of hydraulic specialists who can probably remake the pipework for you. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Glen, Just change the two. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Thanks for coming back. It’s probably me, but I’m beginning to lose the plot a bit here, and need to know if it is only the tensioner part of the kit which is wrong - you can obviously check if the belt is right or wrong by comparing it with the original. If it’s only the tensioner, then surely Audi can supply you with this, so I’m not sure why you want a part number - unless you are trying to buy an aftermarket one cheaper. I guess there comes a point at which the extra money to be spent on buying a tensioner or kit from Audi is warranted by the inconvenience of the car being off the road and blocking someone’s garage. As a matter of interest:- I only use genuine dealer cambelt kits where available, and certainly (without exception) only main dealer water pumps. If I have to use an aftermarket kit then the only brand I have/would use is Gates, but I would still only use a dealer water pump. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Roy. Did your local Audi dealer say the part was obsolete? If so, did they suggest that there is a system whereby they can search/alert all dealers (UK and foreign?) to see if it might be available anywhere as unused stock. TPS ? - the VAG specialist suppliers. Partsfinder? - similar to 1st Choice. Specialist publications such as Modern Classics (there are more). Is there a TT Owner’s Club? If all of this fails, then try local hydraulic hose suppliers ( commercial vehicle) who may/should be able to make something up for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Many thanks for letting us know. Unfortunately, the link doesn’t work for me, and if that’s the case with others, it may not encourage an interest. Wondered if you are able to rectify this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Sorry to hear of your issue. Of course, the answer lies with your local Audi dealer, who should be able to provide you with the correct tensioner from your VIN. As I understood it, you are not blessed with the same degree of aftermarket (motor factor) supply as we are in the U.K. so supply and information may not be as comprehensive as we enjoy. It would be great if you could let us know if that is still the case. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I think there was someone on here who provided a link to getting part numbers from the VIN. Might be worth a search - or I will try later for you,

Hello Anthony, It sounds like the answer to your problem lies around the turbo. If this were mine, I would be getting the car inspected at a trusted local diesel specialist, since obviously it will be impossible to fully diagnose the problem without inspecting the car. I would not be doing this via. a non-diesel-specialist garage. Recommendations for diesel specialists can often be obtained from local taxi drivers who’s living depends on a quick repair turnover at reasonable prices. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mark, ‘Dropped slightly on the gauge’.... Can you be more specific, and let us have a temperature gauge needle position when the car has reached its current operating temperature? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Roy, Can we take it you cannot obtain this part from your Audi dealer? And TPS? Kind regards, Gareth.

OK, sounds like my suggestions were unfortunately of no use. I’m sure you will appreciate Stephen that providing full details of what has been done so far, saves making suggestions which have already been investigated. Still... I’m not sure what your/your auto electrician’s view is on the (lower than normal?) alternator output, and obviously there is a major discharge issue, although your AE could not find where. Of course, that assumes your battery is not at fault. Oh, you didn’t tell is the make of the battery Stephen. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I take it you have tried disconnecting the battery while standing (say overnight) and checking whether the car starts under this test.

Hello Mark, Thanks for being in touch. Can we assume that the normal operating temperature is being achieved and maintained as it was during the summer months? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Thanks for being in touch. A couple of points:- Alternator delivering 13.6 volts seems a little low to me - I would have thought almost 1 volt higher would be better. Battery discharges in 24 hours to a state of being too low to start the car, points to a (very) significant drain. You say ‘no leakage detected...’ How are you assessing whether there is a ‘leakage’ or not? Make of nearly new battery? It would only be a guess that there might be a discharge through the alternator, but obviously a guess it would be. Subject to your answers to the above, it would seem your best bet would be to use the services of a trusted local auto electrician, unless you have the equipment and knowledge to investigate this yourself. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Thanks for being in touch, and you raise a good question since some types of antifreeze should not be mixed with other types. The correct answer to your question lies with the whoever renewed your heater matrix. Obviously, only they know what they used, and I would be driving back to them and asking them to fill your header tank to the correct level. If very little needs to be added, you could just use water, but if the level is fairly low then it will need to be topped up with a 50/50 mix of the correct coolant. My feeling is it should be red OAT, but as said, we are not sure what they actually used, so a return visit to them would be the best answer. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jack, I would start by registering your ‘want’ with on line car breaker link systems such as Partsfinder ( there are more). Breakers contact you directly if they have what you want. You could also place wanted ads. in specialist magazines such as Modern Classics - there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robert, I guess anything is possible. In the older systems it worked via. a sort of vacuum cylinder which controlled the throttle in a selected fixed position. Modern system? Probably not as simple, but no doubt worth a good Googling, to determine exactly what is needed. Sorry I can’t help further Robert, but let’s hope someone on here will offer some advice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Frank, Looks great. Glad your are keeping the Jaguar, and likely to be joining the Jaguar/Audi owners club! Mine’s an X350 - best Jaguar saloon I’ve owned. Magnet? Something to do with a one- off 1930 special bodied Austin I renovated! Perhaps worth boring yourself for 5 minutes with Googling ‘Winterbourne’s Austin 16/6’. Take care, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, The stop/start function is understandably one of the first systems to shut down as the battery efficiency decreases. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Frank, Fancy deserting the Jaguar brand! But there you are, all nice things come to an end. Perhaps I should apologise for the lack of response, but rest assured, that a 15 hour lapse in a lack of response over the weekend is nothing alarming. Unlike the Jaguar brand which I think is supported by a higher than average retired ownership, Audi’s tend (in comparison) to be owned by ‘busy folks’ in employment, so perhaps just hang on a bit longer. If I were in your position, I would be bothering as many Audi dealers who are open for business in these Covid times, since many of your questions will be answered there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robert, Retro fitting any ‘extra’ is seldom, if ever, cost effective. You may be lucky and find an example which was fitted with CC new, but it could seriously restrict your choice. Not that it helps, but a couple of decades ago, I was interested in an executive non-Audi, and was put off it because it didn’t have air con. The advice I was given was - if it’s that important write a cheque for a new one with air con. It turned out to be sound advice and the car didn’t disappoint. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, You have to have the correct AGM battery for your car - if that is what is specified. If you don’t, you will save money in the short term, short being the operative word since the saving you will make by fitting an old style battery, will pale into insignificance when you find you will require a new alternator! Where are you looking for a replacement battery? Buying cheap with these things is false economy, and personally, I only buy Varta/Bosch with their grade of a minimum of 4 years warranty. On line suppliers include Battery Megastore, Tanya, Plymouth Batteries (there are more) and all do mail order. Just search for the most competitive price from a reliable supplier. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Robert, If the arches are starting to rust, I would be questioning other parts of the car, any of which could be sub standard to some degree. Would we correct in thinking you are buying the car because it’s cheap? If so, then it has to be cheap enough to make it worthwhile buying two wings and paying for them to be fitted and sprayed. Trying to find a pair which are the right colour, and above all free from ‘storage/handling’ scratches will be a bit of a tall order. Have you tried registering your ‘wants’ on car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder (there are more)? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kam, Have you tried TPS (Trade Parts Supplies)? Alternative main dealer discount might be from Audi Parts Direct (Cardiff) - they do mail order. If you contact TPS and say you are not sure which O2 sensor you actually want, they might e-mail you a drawing with the part number on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. You could also try Bosch, either via. a website enquiry (quoting VIN) or look up a U.K. technical helpline. Bosch would be a good alternative.

Hello Kelle, If you cannot find the information from Kev’s link, then there are two options:- Wander in to you local Audi dealer and ask for the Parts Dept, and ask the nice folks there. They should be able to help you. Try Googling ‘Build records from VIN’ - or similar. You are likely to come up with an Audi/VAG enquiry one, which should give you the detail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, Thanks for being in touch and sorry to hear of your problem. I’m sure members on here would like to help you, but it’s always difficult to diagnose any noise without hearing it and ideally inspecting the car. By what you say, I would suggest you find yourself another mechanic, since this one doesn’t seem to know what it is. Unfortunately, I think you will just have to ask around for recommendations for a good garage/mechanic, but I would treat this with some urgency, since the noise with this car is trying to tell you something. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kam, Thanks for being in touch. We must take it that you don’t want to buy a genuine Audi then - even at discount? Of course, if you do, it’s just a question of walking into your nearest dealer. So, if it’s a cheap generic one you want, then you would usually have a selection via. an EBay search, with the seller confirming suitability when you give them your registration number. If you are prepared to pay more for a proper one, then let the forum know and we can give you a contact for genuine parts at discount, but it will not be a cheap as any other ‘brand x made in China one’. Kind regards, Gareth.