Magnet

Hello Stuart, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Unfortunately, the original poster hasn’t returned to the forum from two days after he joined, however, you may get a response by sending him a PM. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jatin, My money would be on an unserviceable battery - despite what Kwik Fit tell you. I’m pretty certain your car is fitted with a Battery Condition Monitor (BCM) and this is continually monitoring all parameters of the battery’s efficiency and will start to shut down various features, as the battery becomes deficient in any monitored parameter. Probably, Kwik Fit’s test was a basic check. The batteries on Stop/Start equipped vehicles obviously get a hammering, and can deteriorate at a rate of knots. Your car is 7 years old, and it would be surprising if the original battery has lasted that long, and not impossible that it has already been replaced, and that one is now failing. What make battery is fitted to the car Jatin? That should give you an indication of whether it is the original or not. A couple of points, if you do decide to renew the battery:- Buy once and wisely, and certainly not on price. I buy Varta/Bosch ( their 4 or 5 year warranty variant) from specialist on-line battery suppliers such as Battery Megastore or Tayna ( there are more - search EBay for best deals on these). Double check the correct battery you need by giving the supplier your registration number. It is highly likely that the new battery will need to be coded to the car - otherwIse the system will assume it’s still the old battery. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Bruce, No change from mine then. Is it essential that you fit roof rails as opposed to under- door-aperture roof bars (when needed) - not that I like this type. Aren’t the supplying dealer of the rails prepared to arrange fitting? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bruce, It sounds as if this model is still similar to the earlier A3, where the roof has to be drilled to fit these rails. I thought about it for mine, but decided that wasn’t going to be for me. I can well understand Bodyshops not wanting take this on - there are easier ways of making a living, and I feel you may indeed continue to struggle to find anyone who is interested, and if they are, you have to have complete faith in their ability and experience in carrying out a good job. Hopefully, one of the members has had a similar quest, and has found someone who has indeed carried out a good job. - fingers crossed for a favourable response. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Whereabouts is Alva? - save me looking it up!

Hello Emma, I’m sorry to hear about the sad loss of your Dad - particularly at such a young age. I don’t want to pry into your personal circumstances, but I think it could be wise to think about whether an extra £1000 or so is more important than a relatively hassle free disposal of the car. Only you will know. Yes, you can technically tax the car at any point at which it has a current MOT, although you will need to transfer ownership into your name to be able to tax it. Given that DVLA are currently under pressure, the issuing of a V5 may take some weeks, so (probably?) this should be done sooner than later. I place probably in brackets, since it adds another owner to the car’s history, and it might be better overall to leave the current V5 as it stands. Although you can tax the car without it being insured, it is a criminal offence not to have insurance, and there is obviously no way you are going to get insurance cover for it. Re. MOTing the car, you will need the MOT station to collect it, and deliver it back to you. Even if you did tax the car, it would be illegal for anyone to drive the car even if they have an ‘ entitled to drive any car not owned’ cover on their policy - the car itself has to have an insurance policy in force. The only way in which this can be legally driven is by someone who has motor trade insurance. If I was in your situation:- I would search EBay and say Autotrader etc. and get a range of asking prices for similar age/mileage/condition models, and select an acceptable price from this range of prices. You will need to reduce this price to take into account the fact that prospective buyers cannot road test the car without trade plates. Cars which come to the market due to such unfortunate circumstances, are frequently sold to friends of family members, by canvassing the fact that the car has to be sold. Wonder if you have investigated that route? Possibly some points which may help Emma, but if you think the forum can help further then please let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Luke, Not sure if you mean the auto electrician didn’t have any idea, or if the diesel specialist they recommended, didn’t have any idea?? For recommended diesel specialists in your area :- enquiring at your local taxi rank usually comes up with good recommendations, since these boys depend upon good service for their living. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Sorry to hear of your unfortunate incident, and hope you are reasonably OK. I would be keeping a close eye on what the insurance company are proposing to pay you out as a total loss, since all later vehicles have increased in price of late - possibly since you renewed your insurance. You will need to do as much searching as you can to get the very broad experience of what similar mileage and specification examples are currently retailing at. Bear in mind that the advertised prices are far more likely to be non negotiable - than they were. Another point of doom (apologies for this but should be appreciated):- even if the accident was of no fault of your own, and even when you get your excess reimbursed by the lorry owners insurance, your premium is more than likely to increase at the next renewal - simply because you have been involved in an accident. Even if you have a ‘Bonus Protected’ cover, that does what it says, and protects the % bonus you have, but does not protect from future premium hikes. Worth enquiring about the lorry insurance reimbursing you in respect of this future expense? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Luke, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. When you say ..’ had it at several garages…’ - would any of these be diesel specialists, as opposed to ‘garages’ ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Umar, If you do need to buy a new battery - which sounds most likely - then I would strongly advise buying once and wisely. Audi usually build with Varta batteries and Varta/Bosch are my choice for replacement batteries. I believe there are now budget variants available from Varta and Bosch, and I certainly only only be interested in their premium variant - with 5 year warranty if possible. I now buy batteries on line from specialist suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tayna etc. I would advise against simply buying a like for like replacement without first checking with the supplier that the battery you currently have is indeed the right one. It’s not out of the question for batteries to be swopped at changes of ownership, so always worth double checking. As Cliff says - starting a car now again doesn’t really make sense, since it could take up to 20 mins. running to replace the energy you’ve used it start it from cold. Just put it on charge for half a day now and again - using the correct charger. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds good Gregg, but?? - Audi of America. Our American friends do seem to be able to get recalls etc. where we fail. Good luck, and please keep us posted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mo, I fear that if you are thinking about bypassing switches then you are really talking bodging ( with all due disrespect for the ancient craft of bodging!). The proper way around this is to isolate the cause, and this is why I would suggest investing in a little time with an experienced auto electrician. Playing about with modern car electrics can lead to trouble. You say you bought the car with this known fault, so I guess the price was adjusted accordingly, so worth a little of the savings? Couple of afterthoughts:- does the current wiper motor give any indication of being refitted or not being the original build one? If it is a replacement, it might need recoding to the car. Second possibility - the stalks can be problematic. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds a reasonable outcome Karl. Fingers crossed for a rapid and effective fix, so that you can continue to enjoy the car. Now we know why the last owner parted company with it - of course, having informed the receiving dealer of the fault! Enjoy. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mo, Sorry to hear of your issue. Before advising, are you armed with the necessary test meter, and an understanding of modern car electrics? I not, I would strongly advise that you buy in half an hour’s labour with a trusted local electricians. By passing switches (rather than replacing them) - if at fault - would not be the recommended way forward. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adele, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. My first port of call would be to revisit the dealer, armed with the respective parts and ask them to advise. Hope this doesn’t come over as dismissing your question, but I think an on-the-ground recheck and comparison would be the best way forward in this case. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gregor, Pending replies from others:- I’m certainly not one who wants to drive around corners to an extent where tyres are tested to near limits, so my choice of Michelins on a lasting and ‘confidence’ basis may not be be that much of a recommendation, but…….. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kaif, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. I guess we are right in believing you are going to carryout this service yourself -? In answer to your question:- If not using genuine VAG filters (at discount) then the only filters I use are Mann or Bosch. I would not use ones which come ‘free/included’ with an oil purchase! If you are uncertain on what brands of filters to use, have you yet decided on what brand of oil to use? Incase it helps, I use Quantum (was/is recommended by VAG) which I buy at the most competitive price via. EBay - as with the filters. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Interesting - although if I read it correctly, the last service wasn’t carried out be a main dealer. With a morbid mistrust, is it possible that the last service centre might have swopped good parts for well used? Who knows? For what it is worth, I was talking vehicle sales and not vehicle servicing. Having said that, I think we share the same view with regards to the (unquestionable?) belief that FSH is an absolute requirement. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds encouraging Allan. I’m pretty sure the last letter/s are important and signifies differences, but it sounds as if you are in safe hands. ‘Any welding to subframes is an MOT failure’……. Not sure about that. Surely correctly fabricated and fully welded repairs cannot be an automatic failure. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, I echo Karl’s reaction to your post. Appreciating ‘ unsuspecting dealers’ may not go down well, and yes no doubt, we all have horror stories to tell, but I think if all dealers could buy all their stock ‘dirt cheap’ then there would be far more of them about. Cars are usually bought within the trade at competitive prices in comparison with what their competitor are prepared to pay for the same vehicles. Appreciating that not all stock is bought at auction, but the same buying principle applies where vehicles are bought as ‘unwanted’ part exchange through main dealers etc - highest price gets it- complete with all its faults! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ryan, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. Labour costs will vary from region to region, and obviously whether you propose to get this done at a main dealer, independent, or your local garage. I guess you won’t be considering a main dealer for a car of this age, but they will obviously be able to give you a cost which can be used for comparison, so it worth you just ringing /calling in at the other two alternatives, to obtain a costing in your area. Quality of parts? Cheap is usually just that, and although you might get a 1 year warranty, you will still have to meet the labour costs. Personally, I would not buy an electrical item on a cost-is-king basis, but you will need to make your own decision on this. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Are you sure it is the starter which is at fault, rather than electrical connections/ earths / battery?

No offence taken at all Allan. I think folks in here have been as helpful as they can be, and I can only apologise where suggestions have been made, which - unknown to forum members - you have already tried. It alway helps to list all avenues which have been tried. Back to your problem - as I see it main dealers are highly unlikely to be able to advise on any model to model - model to engine - modifications made to these subframes, and it’s highly unlikely that even if you were able to get the original part number, that you be able to gain knowledge of the slight? difference which would result in different numbered sub frames for the same model. Having outlined the negatives, it might be worth a trip to your nearest TPS outlet, and lay your cards on the table, and see if they might be able to advise how many frames are differently numbered for your model year. Tall ask? - but little to lose by asking, but I would not attempt this over the phone. Other possibility? If there are differences for the same model year, to accommodate the different engines, then can these differences be accommodated by modification by someone capable with say welding facilities? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Were any of Kev’s links of any use to you?

Being rational, calm, but assertive is the answer here Karl. I would also e-Mail him after the discussion and clearly outline what was said/agreed/disagreed - this is equally important in my book, so that everything is recorded. Being realistic, we are all critical of selling dealers, and the faults that result as a consequence of their sales. We want to barter and buy the vehicle as cheap as we can, and deprive the seller of the margins they want, and we don’t bat an eyelid when we are successful at that principle. We buy vehicles which are ‘aged’ in relation to their realistic anticipated economical service life, yet expect them to perform as they did when near new. Although I don’t have any connection with the motor trade, or car sales in particular, I am realistic in terms of what these dealers acquire and sell. In Karl’s case, it is highly likely that the previous owner of the vehicle would have know it had issues, and of course, when he traded it in, he would have informed the receiving garage of all the faults he knew about!! Wouldn’t he?? No one criticises the previous owner, but everyone criticises the unsuspecting selling dealer who acquires the property of those who are economical with the truth. Perhaps you would let us know how you get on Karl. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Very much with Steve.- clicking CV joints obviously equates to wear, and indeed such wear can account for vibrations. Possibly a daft suggestion, but from basic principles, do not ignore tyre inspections, and any uneven tread wear, and indeed comparable remaining tread on all tyres - with 4 wheel drive set ups. Worth a coat of thinking about as a first consideration. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Too much grease can cause issues, where the centrifugal forces exert too much pressure on the boots as it fights for space to be thrown about in. I would be sticking with just using all that you are provided with.

Hello Allan, Kev has given you some very useful leads here which you seem to have missed. Re. same for different engines - you will need to do your own research on this, and it’s quite possible the sellers - breakers? will be able to help. Worth popping into your local main dealer and having a friendly chat with the nice chap in the parts department and see what you can find out. It’s now down to a bit of homework Allan. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Allan, Always good to post where you have already tried, to avoid unnecessary repeat advice. You obviously need one to save a car, so I guess cost becomes less relevant. Scrapyard which has one with engine attached - how much would you be prepared to pay to induce them to remove the engine and sell you the subframe? There has to be a point at which you make it attractive for them to do that. So OK - tried EBay U.K. Continent? There are magazines specialising in ‘Modern classics’. Worth a try advertising your want in these? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.