Magnet

Thanks for coming back on this Jordan. As expensive as Audi is at £120/hr. we don’t see many queuing to set up dealerships, and make their fortunes. I don’t want to come over in defence of such dealerships, but this sort of rate is about the norm. If you think that is expensive, then how about £192/hr. at the local JLR dealership? Independent? Of course you can, and yes, their labour rate may be a bit cheaper, but will they do it thoroughly in the allotted time? Now you seem to have an aversion to my suggestion of a trusted body shop - for some reason. I still think you are likely to get the best job at such an establishment. These chaps are used to taking panels and interiors out to rectify crash damage, so should know their way around. I know where I would be going, but it’s your car, and obviously your choice. I really hope it works out for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

EBay Katie?

Thanks Bernard, It sounds like you are onto a promise - but a promise it is, and it seems that you are discounting the alternatives ( and of course that’s your free choice), which you may to have to consider if time passes, and the hassle becomes worthless. OK, welding no. Getting a new pipe made up?? Why not? I would simply be searching out a commercial vehicle hydraulics specialist and going to have a chat with them. Low pressure pipework should be a dozzle for them. O.D. of this pipe? There are thousands of folks renovating vehicles for which there is zero supply of replacement parts, yet they succeed by finding businesses ( or enthusiastic individuals) who can make the necessary parts for them. Your situation is far from unique, and outside-the-box solutions will be possible and practical, if given a good coat of thinking about. Good luck and all speed in whatever route you settle on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds interesting Steve, and particularly since your real-time comparison of products will be meaningful, and we don’t have to wait months and years, as a result of the very high mileages you are covering. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Stephan, Are we right in thinking it still isn’t cranking over then, rather than it’s an intermittent problem. Not cranking ( as opposed to cranking, but not starting) would have a limited number of causes, and should be simpler to fault find than an intermittent problem. Since your mechanic appears stumped, then it sounds best left in the hands of a trusted local auto electrician. We take it your battery is of reputable make, and has been tested to simply eliminate it from the equation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bernard, I’m very much with Steve, and the repair road would be my preferred option - since all else seems hassle. You obviously know the shape and end fittings etc. of this pipe, but we don’t, so a photo would be useful. Since you can’t buy a pipe then getting a replacement made up should be an option, but even if this isn’t practical ( and I can’t see why not), then can’t your cut the pipe at the damaged area, and use a piece of rubber fuel hose suitably jubilee clipped on, as a bridging piece - at least as a temporary repair? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephan, When you say..’ but the vehicle will not start…’, do you mean the engine doesn’t turn over when the starter is engaged, or it does crank over, but will not fire up? Also, while we are at it, how old is your battery? Kind regards, Gareth.

Price Mike please? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Katie, Thanks for joining and sorry to hear of your altercation. Have you tried:- EBay, and registering your ‘want’ on on-line car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder ( there are far more, if you search). We take it you have had a ring around your local car breakers -? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. I’m assuming you don’t want to buy new. Colour? I guess you are aware that you are likely to have to have the replacement sprayed to your colour, otherwise you seriously restrict the chances of finding one. An aerosol will be sufficient. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello folks, Time for an update:- All the wiring looks good, and since there isn’t any noises/ vibrations at any of the four sensors, I thought I would swop the module ( for a secondhand one due to Audi’s anticipated cost). Outcome - still the same. I have done some spray work on the bumper, but no more than would be expected to respray a new one, and everything was fine for a week or two after. Tried WD 40 on all four. Where to now? As I see it, I ideally need diagnostics, and the question I need an answer to is, will that isolate which sensor/s are at fault ( if a sensor) rather than me ‘investing’ in a new set of fouron the off chance that may sort it? On a rare cadge for some help, would there be any member around the Cardiff area who has the necessary test gear, and be prepared to help, or indeed W. Wales, where we travel to occasionally. I don’t mind paying, but not really an uneconomical main dealer rate. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Any comments on the asking price to further my experience? Road tax €1.8K/a! Blinking heck, that sounds like a ‘gas and air moment’!

Hello Barry and Steve, €16K for a 125K ( low, but not low, mileage if you see what I mean) model? Since it’s being sold by a specialist then I would expect a premium price, but wondered if this was indeed near the going rate. Take it you have checked the MOT history etc. Barry. Kind regards, Gareth.

That’s fine Duncan. Best left as no score draw half time then.

Thanks Harminder, I think Jon clarified that his 21k equated to infrequent longish journeys, but you raise a good point in my book. Low mileage can result in above average wear and tear on many components, not really encountered on a high motorway mileage example of the same age. Shame Jon never came back to advise whether he had the same degree of success that he did with JLR. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mohammed, Sounds like you’ve boiled this down, and you simply want to progress along the lines of the video. That’s great. Personally, I’d still want to work from my back-to-first-principles and get the battery (and alternator) efficiency checked to eliminate these before moving on, but your call. You ‘voltage seems good’ check done with a simple multi meter under no-load condition? Just out of interest - make of your battery? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Duncan, ‘…not totally correct…’ Um! Let’s try and boil this down:- Is stoping and restarting an engine (with zero oil pressure) unlikely to have any negative effect on the engine - particularly over many years of repeating that procedure numerous times/day? If your answer is ‘No it doesn’t have an adverse affect’ ,then it would be great to hear your reasoning to support that. As I see it we have two camps here who are not stop/start averse:- Environment supportive motorists who are happy to accept the engineering averse system, based on the ‘temporarily on stop’ emissions reduction. I certainly don’t have any any argument with that, since I guess they know that they are paying the cost. Other group - my car has stop/start, and that’s posh and somewhat impressive, and I want it to work for that reason, and it won’t be impressive if I switch it off. Different, and they too obviously know about the increased wear element. Back to your ‘… not totally correct….’ Interesting third group? Many thanks Duncan. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mohammed, Simple eliminations first:- worth getting the battery efficiency checked, before moving on to more complex possibilities. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Any form of slight obstruction or disturbance of any of the components can result in the symptoms you have. Personally, I would not be hanging my hat on the motor being the offender here. I would be more interested in searching for some localish specialist inspection/advice before attempting to remove anything. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Should be listed in your Owner’s Handbook. Kind regards, Gareth.

How do you work that out Mathu?

Thanks Jess, In marking your homework! :- MOT history? ( as opposed to date of MOT). Has it ever failed, and why. Advisories? Have they been attended to? This 11 year old car is not being sold directly from a main dealer is it ? Don’t expect any paint warranty on an 11 year old car. Obviously too late now, but deposits are usually non refundable ( but probably transferable at the same seller) so my pre-purchase procedure is to always do all the homework, and gather copies of evidence before paying any deposit. Apologies for the pessimism, but unless you are competent at fully assessing this vehicle, then the ‘insurance’ is to invest in a professional inspection - particularly since you’ve already have one bad experience under your belt. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

‘Few weeks back…’ - should have a warranty. After all, a convertible would be expected to have a working roof, otherwise it’s not fit for purpose. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Jess, but I fear you are going to look at this car without having done much homework, and that puts you into a potential ‘falling in love with the appearance’ situation. Personally, I wouldn’t do it. ‘until I get there I won’t have check the service history etc…’ why not? ‘But there are other costly services I should be checking’ - what are those. Shall I boil the homework done?:- Look at the online MOT history recorded against the registration number. Look at the DVLA Vehicle check to see the date the last V5 was issued - this can give you an idea of how long the last owner has owned it. Short ownership - suspicious. Ask the seller to e-Mail you copy of whatever service history they have. Ring up your Audi dealer and enquire about whatever service history they have recorded in their ‘National’ system. Is it the car for sale at some distance? If so, you may have to kiss goodbye to the practicalities of getting any guarantee work done there. It’s interesting that you mention ‘Black Edition’ - as if this is more important than mentioning anything about its mileage etc. at that stage. Sounds like the pitfalls of falling in love with the looks of it, and what it has. You mention ‘costly checks’, but costly checks can save you an awful lot of money going forward, so consider the costs as a potential investment. Perhaps you could come back to us and let us know the homework details Jess. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Frankie, Trade or private sale? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jess, Thanks for joining. To save us suggesting what you may already have checked, what have you looked into in terms of this particular car’s history? Also, trade or private sale? Local to you or not? Are you contemplating having a professional inspection on the car before committing, to minimise the risk of ‘getting stung’ again? Kind regards, Gareth.