Magnet

Hello Drew, Sorry, but could you put a bit more explanation to add to your post? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Raphael, As Cliff says, but it sounds as if a linkage off the lock has seized. You could try some WD 40 into the lock, and down between the glass and the trim along the top of the door, but be careful that the WD40 tube doesn’t get stuck in anywhere where you don’t want it! Of course, beware of putting too much strain on the key in your attempts to unlock. Short of that working, it sounds as if you are going to need the assistance of the breakdown service/ local garage to get in. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Neville, Have you had a look in the handbook for the fuse location? Is the driver’s seat operating as it should? If so, then it’s perhaps unlikely to be a fuse, since I would expect both seats to work off the same fuse - but you would need to confirm via. the list of fuses. If indeed it isn’t the fuse, then I would suggest it might be better to invest in an hour’s time with a trusted local autoelectrician, unless you are ‘handy’ with such issues. Possibles:- Seat jammed - have you checked under the seat for any obstructions? Possible dirty connector under the seat ( quite common), and you could try a good squirt of contact cleaner, but do not ( in caps) disconnect anything! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, Incase it helps, but it possibly won’t. If you’ve looked on EBay, I wouldn’t discount any mud flaps from China - just because China! I ordered a set for our non-Audi, and as I said in an earlier post - the fit and quality was equal to what would have been my expectations if I’d bought them from a main dealer at 3 times the price. Might be worth having a look on Alliexpress website. Not sure what they do for Audi, but… Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Neville, Thanks for joining. Can you please give us rather more to go on, in terms of your issue, and what you have checked so far. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Did you get the battery checked after? Re. Stop/start - Is it important to you that this system works, from an environmental point of view - or simply that ‘if it’s fitted it should work’? Obviously if it’s the former, then I must respect your views. If it’s the latter, then my view is that it’s an engineering averse system ,and you are far better off without it. Maximum wear occurs on start up, and of course the additional wear on starter motor and battery is accelerated. For that reason, I have to remember to disable it on our non-Audi, every time I get in it! Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Steve. Reverse light switch is fine, since reverse light comes on, and as said, I get a steady 10 second continuous bleep when reverse is selected. Not sure, but going to investigate the possibility of one faulty sensor, on the basis that it could be one-out-all-out, and they simply all go on strike! I’ll report back when I get further into it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Wondered if anyone has been there/ sorted that, with the above problem. All I now get with the 2006 Sportback is a continuous bleep for about 10 seconds when selecting reverse, but no further proximity bleeps. Just hoping someone may be able to throw some light on this. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Not claiming your problem is associated with this, but dirty contacts in under-seat connectors do cause issues. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, ’…always put in branded Ad Blue… normally Redex…’.. Redex is probably the most prolific and one of cheapest available. I’m certainly not saying it’s anything but the best, but it would be good to have hands-on experience from volume users. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. No relation to pal Brendan -?

Hello Mohammed, ‘I wish I was that competent!’. All the bodyshop workers who you are going to approach will have started from a platform of zero competence. They will only have become more competent via. a wish to do so. Your rust issue really is simple to work with, and would be a great starting point to develop enthusiasm in this aspect of DIY. In terms of actually eradicating the effects of the rust, then you are more likely be successful than they are, since your time doesn’t cost money, and they have to work within the time constraints of the quote. You will just take your time in an attempt to be thorough. Anyway Mohammed, the questions you ask are irrelevant if you don’t have any intention of spending some time with this. If you really did, then time could be spent on going through the detail of the procedure with you, but I’m sure you will understand that I wouldn’t want to spend time unnecessarily. What I certainly would do if it were mine, would be to mix some car shampoo in a jar, and clean up the paintwork areas around your rust spots - doesn’t look as if it’s seen any attention since it came out of the showroom - if you don’t mind me saying. This would assist your chosen bodyshop in assessing the full extent of the issue. Perhaps you could let us know as things proceed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mohammed, Would I be right in believing the rust is only associated with pressed holes in the inner wing? If so, rust perforation ( holes) would not really apply in this case - as it would do with a smooth body panel. You could try asking them if they consider the rust surrounding the holes is typical of what one could expect with this model, and see what reply you get to that. My feeling is that if this rust is left untreated (as it has been for some time) then it will ‘perforate’ the metal surrounding the hole, so if this were mine, I would be wanting to do the best I can to reduce that risk. I think you have to be realistic and understand that this is a nine year old car now, and such things are going to need attending to if you want it to last. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry Rob, Personally, although I would like to assure you, I can’t really do that based on my earlier posts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Bob, Are you are having photos - particularly of the connection? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Rob, Thanks for joining and posting your plea. There are varying views on the importance of the suffix letter with Audi part numbers. It has been claimed that it doesn’t matter, and it simply denotes a later edition of the same part. From my experience, I have found this broad brush view to be incorrect in some cases , so unfortunately you have to take your pick, or depend on luck! I guess you are replacing this with a used part, rather than buying new - otherwise you wouldn’t be asking the question -? If this is right, if it were mine, I would be asking for photographs to compare before buying, since connecting plugs ( for example) can vary from year to year. Sorry, I can’t give you a definite yes/no - you may find it to be the same, or you may not, but perhaps other opinions will give you greater confidence. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies, wrongly thought in-tailgate lights. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Are you still about, to let us know how you are getting on with this? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Colin, Andrew hasn’t returned to the forum for over 3 years. Probably best to send him a message via. the forum. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Chris, Yes, Halfords can carryout a (more than basic?) battery efficiency text, but it may not be comprehensive enough. Other parameters (if not tested) such as cold cranking current can come into play. The dealer you was talking about in your first post - was that a main dealer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Thanks for joining and posting your plea. Have you tried walking into your local dealer and asking for a copy of the build record - or indeed Audi Customer Services-?

Hello Wilf, That’s fine then, and of course we don’t know what your requirements or background are via. such posts, but it’s not that uncommon for S line owners not to realise that they inherit harder suspension - until they have bought it and it’s too late! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Will, I’ve not owned what you are looking for, so unfortunately my advice isn’t going to be worth much, but I note you have narrowed your search to an S-line. I just wonder if that choice has been mainly influence by ‘looks’ since it depends on whether you favour ‘ride quality’ or are prepared to compromise that for harder suspension and road holding. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Christian, It certainly looks very original and unmolested. In my book, originality is king, and usually short lived! I’m sure we don’t need to wish your family good luck with its sale. This is the condition in which I like to find them - such that they sell themselves, and the last thing they need is a salesman. Many thanks for bringing it to the attention of the forum members. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I think I would try to get it listed under the Classic Car section of EBay, even if you have to cancel the current one and relist it. I think it’s better aligned to a ‘Modern Classic’ rather than a modern car.

Is that right then Steve, on a 2007 A3? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Worth investigating a possibly below par battery? Kind regards, Gareth.