Magnet

Hello Oscar, The original poster joined and advertised on the same day some 2.5 years ago, and never returned to the forum from that day. As a matter of interest, what was/is the price of a set of VAG rear pads for this? I know VAG discs can be expensive, but have you considered Brembo as an alternative aftermarket disc, with the VAG pads? It is quite likely you will find a couple of Audi main dealers selling genuine pads at discount on EBay. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sammy, I wouldn’t even think twice about it! Buying cheap is usually just that, and you can end up buying twice, and paying twice to get it fitted and the system de, and re-gassed. If I was going to be tempted to buy non-VAG, then in this case, my only alternative would be Bosch, but how long has the current one lasted? Worth doing a quick division against the cost, to work out how much per year it has cost you. Kind regards, Gareth.

What are the specified pressures for light loading for you size tyres Andrew? ‘...thought you might say that.’ Apologies, but I’m sure you will appreciate the forum cannot endorse such a recommendation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, ’Although not recommended....’ I think the forum must endorse that comment. My personal view ( probably the forum administrators as well?) is that other owners should not follow your advice and reduce the tyre pressures below the recommended settings, since it is likely to adversely affect the car’s handling. Wondered if you had yet checked the tyre wall for any indication of whether the current tyres are indeed marked anywhere with an XL symbol ( I believe Avants should be fitted with these, but I could be wrong). Also of a matter of interest and explanation - are the tyres ( rears in particular) run- flat by any chance. If this car is set up with run-flat rims, then these tyres can again add to a firm ride. What were the tyre pressures measured at before you reduced them to 26psi Andrew? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, Apologies, but I think you have misunderstood. The first basic port of call must always be to check the tyre pressures - ideally when it’s been standing out of the sun - and not when it’s done a run. Refer to the recommended tyre pressures as shown on the label, usually stuck on the inside of the fuel filler flap, or if not there, as shown in the owner’s handbook. Do that, before seeking any advice from tyre retailers, since in my experience, they can come up with some different ‘arbitrary’ pressures! Set the tyre pressures according to your ‘no load’ situation recommendations, and certainly not ‘fully loaded’. This vehicle may well have been used to carry loads, and the pressures set accordingly higher. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Andrew, Well it seems we can discount any profile differences which might account for a harsher ride. Extra load tyres on any of the 3 cars? I would expect there to be since they are estates. As a matter of interest, Landsail are again budget, and I believe Nexen are the budget brand of a better known tyre manufacturer - but I cannot remember which one. Tyre pressures? Personally, I would not be rushing out to replace shock absorbers until more homework has been done on tyre loads and pressures. What mileage has your car covered Andrew? Perhaps Stevey can offer some guidance on the need for shock absorber replacement with his high mileage, load carrying , taxi experience. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, Wheel and tyre sizes on your car? Also XL (extra load) tyres on yours? Same questions in respect to your friend’s car? Tyre pressures as currently set on both cars? Handbook recommended pressures for both vehicles - according to tyre sizes? Unserviceable shock absorbers?? I wouldn’t be considering anything in that context until you have answers to the above. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Rob. If it is as he says it is, then the original leaser would have been heavily penalised for a lack of servicing when handing the car back, and the dealership were unlikely to service it and retail it - it would simply be traded out. I’m still with my gut feeling that the car had been serviced (to some extent) external to any VAG linked service logging system. Who would be daft enough to totally ignore all servicing requirements, in knowledge that they would be financially penalised at the end of lease? Having said that, company leasers may have worked out what they saved on servicing would out weigh the penalty. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dean, I’m sure you will appreciate that it’s virtually impossible to diagnose the actual cause of any noise without being able to inspect the vehicle - a bit like asking the dentist to explain why you have toothache in a particular tooth, without him being able to examine your teeth. Can we take it you did PM the original poster, but he did not reply? Obviously the car is trying to tell you something, and if this were mine, I would be booking it in to a trusted local garage, who will be able to inspect it, and should come up with a diagnosis. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

If this were me, I would be searching for any recalls in the States. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Rob, I think Richard’s advice to be careful, warrants respect. ‘One owner, haven’t seen the V5 yet’. Disbelieve anything you are told until you actually have the hard evidence in sight. You won’t go too far wrong if you follow that principle. My gut feeling for what it is worth - and I could be well off the mark - this car may have been on a PCP lease, and the person leasing it may not have wanted to pay main dealer prices for servicing, and being mean!, and accepting it was not being kept beyond the 3 years, decided to take the cheapest option with regard to whatever servicing ( if any) was carried out. It could (in caps) have been serviced by any number of outlets who weren’t linked to the VAG system, so the servicing record could not have been recorded in VAG’s system, and there aren’t service books any more. No main dealer service history, but any retained receipts? Others at independents? Are you actually certain from the ‘small print’ that the main dealer warranty is any more comprehensive? Anyway, realistically, I think there is a fair chance that you will be convinced to buy it, irrespective, since logic suggests Rob, you would otherwise automatically discount it. Good luck with whatever you decide, and perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. The full story rests with the one-owner, so attempt to contact that person. Reg. April and first service in March, suggests it was first serviced when it was handed back in at the end of its 3 year lease.

Hello Rob, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Exactly how old is this car you are going to be looking at? As I understand it, the car can either be set on a Longlife schedule - usually if it covers a reasonably mileage - and generally the servicing comes around at c18k miles, or c18 months. The alternative is an annual service schedule where lower than average mileages are covered. If this car has covered 17k in xmonths since new, then you can work out how many services it should have had at a minimum. Do you know the history of ownership of the car? Surely there must be others about that could be considered, since the explanation you are being given sounds like ‘a salesman’s excuse’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gerry, Independents can often be as expensive as the main dealer, particularly where dealers have promotion on such work - as they do. ‘Official’ independents usually use only VAG parts, so that will be fine if that is the case. Local garages tend to use whatever brand of parts they can obtain at best prices from their local supplying factors, and in my book, the quality of the parts used is of vital importance - particularly in respect of water pumps, where my choice is always main dealer only, with no exceptions. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Peter, It will be interesting to hear of your progress. Re. recalls, it would be helpful to know what VAG’s worldwide actions has been in terms of this, since it’s reasonable to suspect that this might vary according to what may be considered acceptable actions in certain countries. USA may be a good place to start your homework. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mark, To some, low mileage and the need to change cambelts when the mileage covered in 5 years is seen as an overkill. However, low mileage vehicles can have a hard life in many cases, and can accrue their low mileage by short and infrequent journeys, where coolant, and particularly oil, seldom reach optimum temperature. If you compare the same mileage covered at a steady 70mph on the motorway, it’s easy to understand the increased wear rate and stresses placed on a vehicle which runs a short distance back and fore to Tesco once a week, with continued gear changes and varying engine revs. along that journey. It is this stop, start, gear changing, varying revs. which contribute to belt stresses - hence the importance to renew on a time limit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and thanks to Steve for promptly coming up with some answers. In addition to the mileage limit for change, there will also be a time limit, which is usually 5 years, and the all important bit is ‘whatever comes first’. In a nut shell, it should be changed every 5 years or the specified mileage - which ever comes first. One thing worth bearing in mind is the age of the ‘new’ belt you are buying, since it could have already been on the shelf for a number of years. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Thanks for getting in touch with the forum. I would be looking on EBay, with an aim to buying Bosch replacements ( probably the suppliers of the originals). Start by measuring the lengths of both wiper blades, and search on those first - looking for Bosch Aero twin blades for your model year. This will lead you to a number of sellers who should then be able to advise on the correct arms ( which you will have already measured as well, from the centre point of the spindle, to the point were the arm connects and pivots). Well worth investing in a pair of arms and blades. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Patrick, Unfortunately, as Steve points out, the manufacturer’s claimed figures are universally unrealistic, and are generally conceived ‘in laboratory’ under simulated road conditions. It is common knowledge that they are virtually unachievable under normal use. It must also be borne in mind that the car is still tight - at <700 miles - and may take several thousand miles to get optimum mpg for your journey and driving style. Kind regards, Gareth.

Interesting stats. Steve, but there is a big and meaningful difference between lists of crashes for marques and models ‘involved in’ crashes, and a comparable lists complied for ‘caused by’ ! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stefan, I don’t want to counter Steve’s advice, but personally, I’m not a great fan of putting my complete faith in generic listings. My first port of call would be to consult the handbook and then seek a supply according to that specification. Experience has shown that manufacturers often make what could be termed ‘ minor modifications to the basic specification’ , and as such these oils would normally be only available to dealers in bulk quantities, and accommodating dealers can sometimes be encouraged to sell you some dispensed into your container. So it would be back to the handbook, then I might suggest contacting Opie (oil suppliers) and seeking advice there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jon, I had a search on the Audi part no./ Bosch cross reference, but failed. I would agree with Steve that the part was probably manufactured by Bosch, so if this were mine, I would now be searching for a contact number for Bosch Technical and seeking advice there, based on their part number ( and availability) for the correct one for your model year. My experience of Audi part numbering systems concur with your garage - the last letter is all important - and not a simple derivative of some minor development of the original, as with some manufacturers. What is the issue with your current one? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kester, Neither of these components would seem to me to be terribly difficult to isolate as a cause - although ‘hole in a valve lifter’ would appear to be unusual, as really would be undetectable camshaft issues. As you say, as a 16 year old car, the repair bill will likely represent the value of the car, and I guess it’s decision time as whether you have had you money’s worth out of it and are prepared to move on, or if it’s been a faithful servant on which it’s worth further investment. Since we are talking diesel? here, why don’t you find yourself a local diesel specialist to canvas for opinion? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. For what purpose do you need to value it - a possible agreed value insurance? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the helpful information Sammy. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nick, Its a shame Caroline - the original poster- hasn’t returned to the forum since 20 minutes after she joined, so all the comments are currently to no avail. Kind regards, Gareth.