Magnet

Apologies vdm. Doesn’t seem like anyone else has had the same issue as you, and unfortunately it unfortunately looks like the forum isn’t going to be of any help on this occasion - unless someone comes up with something at the last minute. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Paul, but...... So we are still to hear from Chris - the original poster? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, but do you go on spending on parts (and labour?) until you find the culprit? I know what I’d rather do, and I’m not a fan of diagnostics! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. Appreciating your daughter has returned the car to an Audi dealer on 4 or 5 occasions - without success? - Audi has to sort the problem under warranty. Worth trying another dealer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, It could indeed be the offender - along with a lot of other possibilities. Apologies for repeating, but other than simply replacing anything/everything , the only alternative would be plug it into the diagnostics - as recommended to Chris, the original poster. Unfortunately, Chris is yet to let us know how far he has progressed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lawrence, Many thanks for being in touch, and good on you for hanging on to,and maintaining your 1996 A4. Specialist breakers of older Audis?? - but I would suggest you keep an eye on EBay for anything you want. This is always a good source. Have you had a look at ‘Modern Classics’ magazine? Again a useful source for being able to advertise for what you may want. Are you aware that your Audi should qualify for cheap classic car insurance? - subject to certain conditions of use. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Craig, The EML could be due to any number of issues - which will only be assessed on a diagnostic check. Heater issue - could be matrix, or other some issues associated with controls. Again can only be assessed on inspection and testing. Apologies, but you shouldn’t need to concern yourself about what is causing the problems, but just how they are to be resolved. ’......warranty company are asking me to take it .......’. My belief is that you shouldn’t have to be dealing with the warranty company at this very early period in your ownership - 2 weeks - but the responsibility for sorting it should first rest directly with the seller, not the warranty company. Be careful you are not being led down the wrong road - which I feel you might be! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear you are having a little difficulty with your just-purchased A3. I think reasonable advice would be not to try to self-investigate the possible causes of the two problems, but simply return the car to the seller, and request they sort out the issues under warranty. Personally, I would be following up every communication with an e-mail, confirming the issues discussed and the actions to be taken. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ronny, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. I too can understand your initial frustration about the transmitter being the rear bumper ( although, apologies, but I cannot share your views on the abbreviated language bit). I guess on further thought, Audi are logically keeping your best safety interests in mind by not putting it in the front bumper, since if they did, they would be encouraging driving into the garage, and consequently reversing out on to the road - not good safe practice! I think you will find that insurers can actually lower premiums for car parked on the road as opposed to parked on a driveway - yes I know it sounds daft, but apparently there is a far greater risk of collision by reversing out onto a roadway - actually makes sense. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chet, We take it you are looking to buy secondhand parts -? If so, have you tried registering your ‘wants’ on the car breaker link systems such as Partsfinder? - there are more. You shouldn’t need the parts numbers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Wondered what questions you have about this 4 year old ‘For Sale’ topic Erick.

Hello Graham, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. Since you have only just bought it, why not treat it to an oil and filter change, using the correct grade and handbook-stated quantity of oil, so you know it will then be at the correct level, and you can monitor it from there. Start off from a good base point by using say, Quantum oil, and a genuine VAG filter. If not using a Vag filter, then I would only use Mann or Bosch as aftermarket alternative. Kind regards, Gareth.

As Steve says - with the emphasis on treating only one bush at a time. Otherwise you won’t know which is the offending one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Christopher, If 5w/30 fully synthetic is the handbook-recommended oil , and you have been using Quantum Longlife, why do you want to deviate from it? Is the car using oil? If you are insistent on deviating - since some suggest you do (will be advantageous?) then I would stay away from semi synthetic 10w/40 ( synthetic technology as some marketing executives wish to call it!). Appreciate there has been some recent debate about it on here, but I would prefer to maintain my opinion about using it - but that’s my opinion. Perhaps you could let us know why you prefer to move away from 5w/30 Christopher. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Wayne, If the car has been well maintained, oil and filter wise, then 162K should not dictate an engine rebuild. Noisy? Well worth getting the degree and origins of the noise diagnosed, before doing anything. Engine rebuilders (if necessary)? Comparatively few and far between these days, since engines last far longer than they used to, so you are going to struggle to find someone to do this - at any (considerable) cost. The only possibilities would be via. specialist classic car engine rebuilders - Google should come up with something if needed, but expect to pay well into four figures. Respray? If you are contemplating again spending four figure sums in this direction, then I would be approaching some local classic car owners and asking advice there. Body shops have generally developed into accident repair centres, allied to insurance companies, and they tend to turn away general full scale respray work on older vehicles, due to encountering the ‘unknown’. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Wayne. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Christopher, The owners handbook will be the correct place to reference. Do you have it to hand? If you don’t, then you would be wise to obtain a copy (EBay should lead you to one). There are looking-up references ( which I haven’t looked up, but you can) and again that should be worth looking into. My guess ( and a guess it is) is that the grade should be 5w/30 - fully synthetic. If so, I would be minded to use Quantum Longlife ( often sold on EBay) since this was/is a VAG recommended brand. Of course, filtration is equally important, and if not using a genuine VAG one, then the only aftermarket brands I would use would be from Mann or Bosch. Personally, I would avoid any ‘deal’ type purchases of oil-and-filter from certain large online retailers. The brands of filters were once respected - with the emphasis on ‘once’! Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done Fernando, Now instead of finding a new motor, you can now find yourself a new friend! This one can seriously damage your wallet! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brian, Just an opinion - if you are going to allow this car to be pulled apart based on anything other than the described logical road test then I think you are letting yourself in for an ‘investigative’ bill. It would be great to know how you get on with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Thanks for passing on your findings. Re. Trading Standards are now sorting it out - sounds great, but the days of the old local TS have long gone, and been replaced by a national centre which logs all complaints and may even issue you with reference numbers etc. Whether they have any obligation, or much intent, of keeping you updated on their findings/progress is another thing. Of course they may do, but personally, I would not hang my hat on the principle that ‘they are now going to sort it out’. Perhaps you can hopefully keep us posted on how you get on Chris. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Fernando, I really sounds to me that you have issues with the various linkages rather than the motor. I wouldn’t go off in a rush to buy another motor until everything else has been eliminated. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Fernando, It seems strange that your friend says the motor is dead, when the motor works to open the window. Personally, I would get a second opinion on this before attempting to buy a replacement motor. If the motor has failed, have you tried looking on EBay? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Daft question - perhaps? Are there two indicator bulbs per side by any chance? Some manufacturers do that, including brake light bulbs. OK, if not, then I would be looking at partial fractures of any of the individual wires of the flexible harness section which links from the body into the boot/ tailgate. Favourite place for issues - particularly in cold weather - due to years of flexing bu opening and closing. Kind regards, Gareth.

I really like the ...Boris’...plans ( should be in caps) bit Clive! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Chris, You are totally overthinking this, and in great danger of disappearing up a certain orifice! Simply work to a logic of elimination of simple and cheap investigations first. Carryout that investigation on a one step at a time basis, so that whatever is found to be at fault can be identified.- i.e. never carryout two investigations at the same time, or you won’t know which of the two was the issue. In your case, that means dosing one mount at a time. Am I too late to tell you that!? When you’ve tried that and it doesn’t work, then and only then, worry about what comes next. Let us know how you get on Chris. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, DIY work on air conditioning systems is really impractical, and indeed shouldn’t be undertaken since the gas should be correctly exhausted and stored only with specialised equipment. Simple checks for leaks etc. is neither expensive or time consuming, and should be left to the specialists. Kind regards, Gareth.