Magnet

Hello Andy, Unfortunately this poster joined and posted some 10 months ago, and hasn’t returned to the forum since the following day. I would suggest you PM him, in the hope of getting a response. Perhaps you could let us know if you do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Billy. Location of module? Sorry I really don’t know, and unless you are equipped with the necessary diagnostics and knowledge, then I can only repeat my suggestion that you have your local independent diagnose this for you, and estimate the cost of sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Thanks for being in touch. It’s possible that the fitter may not have seated the bulb correctly in its holder, rather than having disturbed the whole headlight - but of course we don’t know. If it were mine,I would be returning it to him for correction? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Justin, James has not visited the forum since late November, so it would be better to send him a PM. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Vijay, What battery did they fit? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joe, As I understand it, the service-due indicator was either set on a Longlife service interval ( usually coming up at around 18k or 18 months), or an annual interval for low mileages covered in a year. If this is still the same, then dealers tend to set the indicator on an annual basis, since the car will return to them more frequently, and to be fair to them, your annual mileage would suggest that would be justified. Maintenance contract? Debatable, but you should be able to obtain an estimated cost from them ( would not suggest getting this from Sales Dept.) for annual servicing. What does the maintenance contract include. Consumables? - such as brake pads etc.? Again, you will need to look in detail at the terms of your PCP - where it may dictate that you must have the car serviced only at an Audi dealer, as opposed to ‘an Audi schedule’ which could allow you to have it serviced at say an independent. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ian, I don’t want to be pessimistic, but that’s a new one on me! Never heard the likes, but despite having more than a ‘few miles on the clock’, we are not too old to learn. Could you let us know how you get on Ian? Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Sounds like they may be M6 bolts. Easiest and quickest route under our current situation is to look on EBay. You are likely to be spoiled for choice there. Beware, metric threads might have a number of different thread pitches for the same dia. but you can afford to go with the most popular variants and order a couple to compare. To check the treads are the same pitch, simply line up the new one tight against the old one. Some bolts used on vehicles have a flange of shouldered head so a washer isn’t required. This type should also be listed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well done. I guess we all need a bit of TLC - me in particular!

Thanks Tony, Sorry, but it always interests me what folks do with this extra decimal point of a second that they have spent considerable chunks of wallet relieving cash on to achieve. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vijay, Thanks for being in touch. Sounds typical of battery issues - which would tie in with the anticipated service life of a battery fitted to a car with a stop/ start system. Worth getting the alternator output checked at the same time, but I wouldn’t anticipate any problems there. If it needs a new battery, then it becomes important that you spend wisely on its replacement, rather than any ‘brand x’ make which the garage may obtain from their local motor factors. Battery efficiency is vitally important these days. For me, I only use Varta/ Bosch with a minimum of 4 years guarantee. These can be delivered to the door by on line specialist suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tanya, Plymouth Batteries etc. All of these, and more, sell on EBay, where you will normally get free delivery. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Thomas, Thanks for being in touch. Sounds typical of near side wheel bearing issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks indeed David, That really is a great link. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Bradley, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Costs for tyres? Easily Googleable when you are armed with the tyre size, and decided what quality tyres you want - budget thought to premium brands. Brakes? Are we talking discs as well as pads? Do you know the amount of remaining pads at the moment? For prices, simply search EBay, and you will find numerous examples of various quality parts, often including main dealer parts at discount. Only you will know whether you are going to replace these parts yourself or having the job done for you. Shock absorbers? Normally long lived. Do you suspect the car/s you are looking at have issues with these? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Billy, Thanks for being in touch. It’s usual for the driver’s door module to control the remaining doors, and for issues to start with that door, and migrate to affect the other doors. Since you say the issue with the passenger door started (coincidence?) when anew fob battery was fitted, it may be worth going through the fob resetting procedure, which you should find via. Google - and has been listed on here from time to time. Pessimistically, none of these procedures have worked for my spare fob, but you never know your luck. Failing this having any influence, I fear it’s a matter of seeking (diagnostic?) guidance from a trusted local independent, or removing the driver’s door panel to check things out - if you feel confident. On thing puzzles me ‘...the outside handles don’t open the door, I have to lower the window to open the door from the inside’...! How do you lower the windows without being inside the car? I know you can close them via. the locking on the fob, but opening? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, This sounds like an issue with the reservoir low-level sensor. These are often located in inhospitable places, and can suffer from contact issues. Air lock? Really don’t think so. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte, I believe this issue is an MOT failure, if any of the doors cannot be opened from outside, at the time of testing. It appears Mathew’s can be opened from outside once the door has been opened from inside - and before the automatic lock comes into play. Yours? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joe, Many thanks for being in touch. Since you don’t have a spare wheel, then a jack will be surplus to requirements. To tyre sealant and compressor is supposed (in caps) to replace the need for a spare wheel. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mathew, For what it might do, have you tried switching the double click from off to on? Unlikely to make any difference, but worth a try. If that doesn’t work, then I can only come back to my earlier points. MOT? Understand your concern, but ‘technically’ if you unlock the passenger door from inside when you present it for testing, then it can be opened from outside - so shouldn’t be a fail - until you drive off - which won’t be part of the MOT procedure. On a best-safety approach, it should be seen to, and I would suggest going along to an independent and talking it through with them. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello, Suspension? Rising? I would have expected the compressor to be lethargic in raising the suspension as the battery becomes below par. I can only think that the system may have an inbuilt ‘fail safe’ which activate under these conditions. If this were mine, I would be treating this from the simple things first principle, and checking and replacing the battery if necessary before being too concerned about anything else. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, Thanks for being in touch. I think you are right to suspect the battery - if we assume it is the original. I would be thoroughly inspecting all the connections and main battery and body earths as an initial check, and if satisfied with those, take the car for at least a 15 mile run and then get the battery efficiency checked. If it proves to be suspect then I would only replace it with a quality brand, such as Varta/Bosch, but selecting their grades which give you at minimum of 4 years warranty. I tend to buy from on line battery specialist such as Battery Megastore, Tanya, Plymouth Batteries etc. who offer competitive prices and delivery to your door. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, When you say oil sensor light, do you mean low oil level warning, or low pressure warning? Re. Cost of oil and filter change? Any local garage and or large tyre retail chains etc. etc. will give you quotes. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies David, We take it it’s only the codes from EOA down, you are in doubt about. Unfortunately, it would appear there isn’t any expertise on here to be able to answer your question. If this were mine, I would be ringing the parts department of your nearest dealer - or indeed Audi Customer Services, and I’m sure that either/both should be able to decipher the codes via. an e-mailed copy of the label. I’ve had helpful response on these build record codes from parts departments in the past, for non Audi. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Thanks for being in touch. As I see it Tom has answered your question better than I would have. The leasing company are the owners, and you have agreed to their terms, so you must comply with them. ‘Strictly in line with the manufacturer’s recommendations.........only by authorised Audi dealers’ is unambiguous, and if this were mine, I would be sticking with the supplying dealer to service the car, since there cannot be any debate about the correct level of service it should (in their - the supplying dealer’s judgement) have. We take it this car is on a PCP? If so, hand back condition can be a cause of debate, so any deviation from contract is likely to cost you at that time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, Hopefully there will be other recommendations for premium branded tyres with good wear records, but for me it’s always Michelin. Kind regards, Gareth.