Magnet

Hello Gordon, Thanks for coming back on this. I’m sure you more than anyone, will appreciate the difficulties/impossibilities? of trying to diagnose the cause/s of such issues without examining the patient! All you going to end up on here with ( with all due respect) is a list of could be this/I had that with my car etc. The fact is that the car is trying to tell you something, and it now needs to be examined by a recommended ‘specialist consultant’. If this were mine, I would be concentrating my efforts on researching recommended garages in your area - not necessarily Audi specialists - but an establishment where you can talk to the principals, in person, and go through everything with them. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Gordon. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gordon, I think valuable clues lye in the fact that this can be felt through the brake pedal, and that it seems to have disappeared for 2 months ( the longest symptom free period) when the brake discs and pads were renewed. What make discs and pads were used? I ask the question since your description smacks of symptoms of warped brake discs. If this were mine, I would be wanting to check the run-out on the discs as they are now, in their installed state, and if found to be warped, I would be extremely fussy to ensure the mating surface of the hub - where the disc fits - is scrupulously clean and sound. If genuine VAG discs haven’t/aren’t going to be used, then I would opt for Brembo, and not be very keen to use anything else. When fitting new pads, I would be again be very fussy to check that the caliper sliding pins were clean, suitably lubricated, and we’re moving freely. All of this would be my starting point, unless anyone else sees anything untoward on inspection. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello S?? I think you are right in concluding the rich mixture is an assumption. Personally, I not a fan of changing two things at the same time, but... Like the reference to using FedEx, Steve, but will it deliver the correct result?? Welcome back by the way. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Arron, My procedure:- Assess the coolant level when cold - ideally when left to stand overnight. Top up to the max. mark. Use the car and inspect the level the following morning when cold. Should still be at the same level. Kind regards, Gareth.

Really surprising nobody wants this. It’s still sitting on the shelf, and not being destined for a good home, where it will be put to good use. If anyone wants it then please message me with what you consider to be a reasonable offer. Postage is possible. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ann, Sorry to hear of your issues. Pressure washers and cars simply don’t mix, and to my mind they should be avoided, due to the pressure they exert on potentially delicate paintwork, fabrics and particularly any piece of electronics. I’m not sure why owners use them on cars and expect minimal damage, when the average householder has witnessed what the generated pressure can do for their patio! I would say that if anyone contemplates using them on cars, they might like to consider using them as an alternative to a shower! Still..... I cannot claim this is the cause of your issue, but hoods generally are operated via. a number of delicate micro switches, and it’s possible that moisture has infiltrated one or more of these. Just a reasonable possibility - you may find that things return to normal in a couple of weeks as things dry out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vdm, Batteries can be the source of all sorts of issues, but surely in your case, where you have fault codes for steering angle sensors etc, that is where you should be looking. ECPare still attracting buyers then due to their continual discount codes. Good, isn’t it? Discount codes are fine, and up to 60% off may sound great, but 60% off what so called retail price. It’s what you eventually pay is the only important point, not the supposed x% off. In fact, it is not uncommon to be able to buy the same component cheaper via. their associate - Car parts for Less - even when C4L are discounting at a much lower %! Great marketing.

Hello George, Ruville I’ve never heard off, but sounds Continental, so guess it makes sense. Ina are bearing manufacturers, but as far as I’m aware, not belt manufacturers - so who makes their belts?? The answer should lie with you independent, if they have bought these kits previously. Gates were using INA tensioners and idlers in their kits kits - which would make sense since they are quality bearing suppliers. The all important water pump? Are you sure this isn’t available from VAG? Have you tried? Water pumps included in belt kits worry me. Kind regards, Gareth.

Tyres are new Richard.

Hello Steve, Chances are that the battery has more than done it’s time at that age - even though it starts the car. Modern cars are very susceptible to battery condition, and the old marker of ‘it starts the car’ , really no longer applies. Don’t assume it’s serviceable, so get it tested. Yes, Halfords were doing testing. Buying a replacement from Halfords?? Personally not for me - a couple of issues with ones I’ve had, and that’s before you consider the price! For me, I only buy Varta/Bosch on line from specialist suppliers, at the most competitive price, with a minimum of 4 year warranty. Suppliers include: - Battery Megastore, Tayna - there are more. Beware, strangely, some charge you carriage if bought direct, but sell off EBay at the same price with free delivery! Why?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello George, You raise a very well worth asking question. If VAG parts are no longer available, then the only aftermarket kit I would use would be Gates, since these were OE suppliers to a number of motor manufacturers. The next all important choice is the water pump, and the quality of this is critical. Appreciating Gates do kits including water pumps, I would only use a non-VAG pump as an absolute last resort. Do VAG still list a pump for your car? - if so, I would only go for that. If not, you are indeed in trouble, since some (many?) aftermarket pumps are of dubious quality. Using a Gates kit to inc. the water pump?? Gates only make belts, but you would expect that the quality of the supplied water pumps would be as good as their belts, but......... Not been there and done that, but SKF seem to market pumps, and they were/are manufacturers quality bearings - the weak point with aftermarket pumps - so could be worth a try. Perhaps you would let us know what you decide. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, I seem to recall a similar post within the last 18 months or so, so worth doing a search. Re. - only owned it for 24 hours..... Did you buy it from a dealer? If so, it should be returned for the dealer to sort it. If not, and you have to resort to sorting it, as you have found, the assembly is just ‘unfriendly located’ and I would suggest the car is placed in the hands of a trusted independent who will have the necessary experience of exactly what to get and how to fit it - otherwise it’s likely to be a right fiddle. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, CTek are well respected, and all credit to you for making sure you use the right type of ‘intelligent’ charger for AGM batteries. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve ( Blackburn) When you say the battery is in great condition, can you confirm it is not the original, if not, how old it is, what the brand is, and what your test results were? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, This could be as simple as the folding mechanism needing some assisted lubrication - try a little WD40 as a start. if indeed you do have switch issues ( which would be unusual) then if you don’t have the knowledge or equipment to check that, then you would be best advised to buy an hour’s labour with a trusted local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. When you say the car won’t go more than 40mph, could you confirm that if you attempt to increase that speed, the engine revs. increase, but the car doesn’t accelerate - as would be typical of clutch slip. Also that the car will indeed go above 40 mph down hill, but possibly not even 40 -up hill. Others may confirm or refute, but I think I recall a similar issue with another forum member within the last 18months. What to do from here if it actually clutch slip:- Continue to badger Audi for a sensible resolution - which may include a partial payment towards the costs. Take a small claims court action against the dealer you bought it from. ( CAB should be able to advise). If these fail, then it could be a matter of biting the bullet and getting it sorted at an independent - possibly using the far cheaper LUK aftermarket parts. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Zack, Simple things first:- The lower the profile ( the 60, 45 etc. bit) the harsher the ride will be, and to increase your wheel diameter the you are going to have to lower the profile, so that the outside diameter of wheel plus tyre remains the same as your current 60 profile 185 15 inch wheels. You can work it out by adding 2 x (60% of 185mm) to 15 inches - converted to mm. (1 inch = 25.4mm). Audi have really worked it out for you, in terms of acceptable larger-wheel alternatives, which you have listed. Messing about with alternative tyre sizes because they are cheaper ( due to popularity) can be a recipe for disaster and seldom works out, either economically - since you have to buy the larger wheels, or comfort-wise, due to lower profiles, or indeed with the insurance implications for fitting non standard wheels and tyres. In answer to ‘...will 205 be too wide..’ No, since Audi list up to 225. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Zack, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. You raise a good question, since simply swopping wheel and tyre sizes is not at all straightforward in terms of acceptability - and that’s before you consider the insurance liability by fitting such non standard critical items. Can you start by letting us know the current tyre size, and confirm this is a listed size for your model. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Andrew. Indeed -‘ full of it could be.....’. As in wheel sensor s! Sorry, I couldn’t resist that. Again on a can’t resist it basis:- ‘35 years’ then. I’ve got brogues older than that, and I’m still learning! Apologies and kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Andrew. I think you’ve summed it up with ‘.....always check wheel speed sensors first’. Problem is which one (without the recommended diagnostics in this case -in caps) and how do you check it - or all four - without replacing them? Kind regards, Gareth.

I too share the view that diagnostics is not the be all and end all - and I’m pretty sure Cliff shares that viewpoint. Again, I have stated on here (as Steve now quotes) that the cause-and-effect principle is (very) often overlooked at the owners peril and cost. Having said that, in cases like this, it certainly is a valuable tool which allows you to home in towards a particular component/wheel. Yes, it’s OK to state ‘it was component x’ on my car, but it infers that it will then be component x on the poster’s car - this is of course no more than (a potentially expensive) assumption. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and I think you are wise to question this, since it’s not at all uncommon for owners to fit smaller capacity batteries on a so called cost saving principle. Apologies, but I’m not making much of the photo, so perhaps we can get back to first principles:- Have you asked the owner to check under ‘Technical specifications’ ( or whatever the section is called) in the owner’s handbook? This should give you the recommended Ah and CCA rating for the battery - under Petrol engines. It’s not uncommon for battery compartments to accommodate a ‘standard’ size battery, and a longer battery ( higher rated) normally fitted to the diesel variant, and the physically bigger battery can usually be fitted to the petrol engine if desired. Equally important as the battery capacity, is the battery quality, and personally, I only buy Varta/Bosch with a minimum of 4 years warranty - buying on line from specialist suppliers, at best prices. Battery Megastore, and Tayna (there are more) have been used to good effect. Tip:- You should find they sell on EBay with free delivery, but usually charge delivery if ordered direct! Why?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, If the garage thinks it’s the water pump, then I would be tempted to look for another garage! Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Andrew. Indeed it could (in caps) be a wheel sensor - but which one - if any one?? It could also be a weak signal from a hub - so diagnostics should at least point to the offending wheel. Strange but we are not hearing from the original poster despite visiting the forum less than a few hours ago. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies vdm. Doesn’t seem like anyone else has had the same issue as you, and unfortunately it unfortunately looks like the forum isn’t going to be of any help on this occasion - unless someone comes up with something at the last minute. Kind regards, Gareth.