Magnet

Hello Patrick, Unfortunately, as Steve points out, the manufacturer’s claimed figures are universally unrealistic, and are generally conceived ‘in laboratory’ under simulated road conditions. It is common knowledge that they are virtually unachievable under normal use. It must also be borne in mind that the car is still tight - at <700 miles - and may take several thousand miles to get optimum mpg for your journey and driving style. Kind regards, Gareth.

Interesting stats. Steve, but there is a big and meaningful difference between lists of crashes for marques and models ‘involved in’ crashes, and a comparable lists complied for ‘caused by’ ! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stefan, I don’t want to counter Steve’s advice, but personally, I’m not a great fan of putting my complete faith in generic listings. My first port of call would be to consult the handbook and then seek a supply according to that specification. Experience has shown that manufacturers often make what could be termed ‘ minor modifications to the basic specification’ , and as such these oils would normally be only available to dealers in bulk quantities, and accommodating dealers can sometimes be encouraged to sell you some dispensed into your container. So it would be back to the handbook, then I might suggest contacting Opie (oil suppliers) and seeking advice there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jon, I had a search on the Audi part no./ Bosch cross reference, but failed. I would agree with Steve that the part was probably manufactured by Bosch, so if this were mine, I would now be searching for a contact number for Bosch Technical and seeking advice there, based on their part number ( and availability) for the correct one for your model year. My experience of Audi part numbering systems concur with your garage - the last letter is all important - and not a simple derivative of some minor development of the original, as with some manufacturers. What is the issue with your current one? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kester, Neither of these components would seem to me to be terribly difficult to isolate as a cause - although ‘hole in a valve lifter’ would appear to be unusual, as really would be undetectable camshaft issues. As you say, as a 16 year old car, the repair bill will likely represent the value of the car, and I guess it’s decision time as whether you have had you money’s worth out of it and are prepared to move on, or if it’s been a faithful servant on which it’s worth further investment. Since we are talking diesel? here, why don’t you find yourself a local diesel specialist to canvas for opinion? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. For what purpose do you need to value it - a possible agreed value insurance? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the helpful information Sammy. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Nick, Its a shame Caroline - the original poster- hasn’t returned to the forum since 20 minutes after she joined, so all the comments are currently to no avail. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies Nick, but it just sounded like a diesel! - that’s why I thought Stevey would concur with my suggestion of asking at your local taxi rank for local diesel specialists - obviously not the right route now for petrol then! Personally, I think you need to get some second/ third opinions on this before embarking on any dismantling and part changing. Do you have anyone who can provide you with any recommendations for a good local garage who you can actually talk with, rather than simply get a relayed message that ‘you need new components x&y’ ? Kind regards, Gareth.

Like it Steve! I’ve already got cars older than me - now that takes some believing - but true, so I can carry on with mild tinkering in my dotage. Great! Many thanks again Steve, and kind regards, Gareth.

OK. Sign in and look for the envelope towards the top right of the screen. That’s the message sending route. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nick, Are they saying the water pump is leaking then? This would surprise me on a 6 year old car, unless it’s covered a galaxial mileage. 4 hours labour may equate to c £450, so the parts bill would be c £250 - which sounds high to me, but I may be out of touch. Can you confirm this is a diesel? If it is, then I would be tempted to look for a local diesel specialist and seek advice there. Finding a local diesel specialist? I have always advised asking at your local taxi rank, since these boys depend on a good service at a good price, and usually know who to avoid - which is half the battle! Hopefully, Steve on here will agree. Kind regards, Gareth.

Unfortunately Dean, the original poster joined the forum and last visited it, all on the same day, so I would suggest you PM him, and perhaps you would then be kind enough to post the outcome. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the contributions. Just to close off this thread, I’ve opted for Lemforder arms - one has already arrived and looks very well constructed - and Febi ball joints, since I feel that after 160k +, the originals warrant changing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Caroline, Thanks for being in touch. Perhaps you could let us know if you have owned the car long enough to know that this is an issue that has arisen during your ownership, or if you have bought a car with which you have inherited an already known issue. The fact that the engine oil is very black because the piston rings are wearing out, is an assumption - it could be black because it hasn’t been changed for some time. Could you tell us when the car last had a quality oil and filter change? If this were mine, I would first be treating it to a quality oil and filter change using say Quantum oil and a Bosch or Mann filter. You will then have a basing point from which to gauge its oil consumption. I would also be doing what Steve suggests, and taking the car for a 10 mile run to ensure the oil is up to operating temperature, then leaving the car idle for a couple of minutes and blip the accelerator and observe any blue smoke from the exhaust. If this clears, rev the engine to about 3000rpm fairly quickly and again observe any blue smoke. We take it there aren’t any visible oil leaks. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mat, I applaud your principle of spending wisely on quality parts, since you aren’t paying any labour bills. I still question the reasoning behind changing the water pump, since genuine ones can be long lived. Genuine VAG parts mail order at discount? Might be worth trying Audi Parts Direct at Cardiff ( part of Mon Motors/Cardiff Audi as was), and/or Aberdeen Audi - both are usually accommodating with a bit of discount. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry Nick, I’m near Cardiff, but hopefully someone on here might be close enough to advise. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, The holder is usually screwed to the bumper, rather than stuck with double sided tape. However, you don’t need to remove the holder to change the plate. This holder has far more visible fixings than normal, but the way I would attempt to remove the existing plate would be to move the plate down in the holder as far as possible, before trying to move the upper lip of the holder up enough around the centre of its length to be able to start to tease the plate out. Warming the holder and plate with a hair dryer usually helps - principally in the area you are attempting to start removing the plate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mat, Sounds almost certain to be thermostat issues. Couple of points:- what make thermostat are you intending to replace it with? Is the water pump leaking or noisy? If not, why change it? Again, if yay are intent on changing it, what make are you going to buy? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Nick, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. Did the car overheat or the temperature gauge go above normal when the car lost a reservoir full of coolant? The car obviously needs inspection to determine where your coolant is going - assuming you can’t see any visible evidence of a leak. One simply test you can do before entrusting the car to a trusted local garage, is to ensure the reservoir is topped up to the max. mark, before taking the car on a 10 mile run. Immediately on your return, rev. the car to a steady just-under-2000rpm, and observe whether there is any undue (white?) smoke from the exhaust. If this were mine, I would be booking this in without delay. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. Take it it’s diesel??

Hello Rebecca, I think the forum would benefit from a more detailed description of the symptoms, to be able to offer any constructive advice. One test you could do is to take the car on say a 5 mile run, then very lightly touch the centres of each wheel to feel if any are hotter than the rest - touch very lightly and tentatively, as if you would be testing to see how hot something is. If this were mine, and I was in your situation, then I would be getting the car inspected by a trusted local garage - the car is trying to tell you something! Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Steve and Cliff, I understand what you say about putting new bushes in my arms, but there are a number of restrictors making this impractical. I would not confidently reuse these 15 year old arms without having a facility to grit blast them, since I’m yet to find any amount of rubbing down and treating, to be a permanent solution to rust. The main issue here is that the old three score and ten has long since passed, and I’ve been ‘banned’ from carrying what would be termed ‘heavy get out and get under’ work! Consequently, I’m getting this done by a local free lance mechanic, and obviously his time is at cost, so it’s a question of simply fitting best quality for money parts. I will be checking with Febi tomorrow to see if they do the pressed steel ones as well, and also looking at Lemforder, and some branded Moog - who are new to me, but I understand have been about for as long as I have, and may now be part of Federal Mogul - I think. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Cliff, The cast ( forged) ones come complete with the offending bushes and the ball joint, with the Febi ones. Having used Febi as alternative aftermarket I have confidence in the quality of the bushes and the joint. The pressed steel ones are generally of unknown origin, and although I am not too concerned with the integrity of the structural metal, I am certainly concerned about the quality and anticipated service life of the bushes, hence the query about whether the forged are/aren’t actually interchangeable. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello folks, I could do with some been-there-done-that advice regarding the above. A couple of the bushes are showing signs of wear, so I’m intending to renew the arms . Current ones are pressed steel, and understandably are showing signs of rusting, so conclude its better to renew the arms now, rather than just the bushes. Problem:- Seems cast arms are available, and the intention was to use Febi Bilstein replacements, but now understand that they don’t interchange with the original steel ones. Steel ones are less readily available unless you use ‘unbranded’ ones ( cheaper) - some being advertised as being of German origin, but I’m reluctant to dip my toe into these without some experience. Questions:- Has anyone attempted to fitted cast arms as replacements for steel, and are they indeed not interchangeable -as I’ve been advised? Where replacement steel ones have been fitted, has anyone come up with reasonable aftermarket alternatives such as perhaps Lemforder or Meyle, and if so, any advice on competitive sources? Many thanks, Gareth.

Hello Arron, If you want genuine parts at discount then I would be following my advice and start searching EBay for Audi dealers who are selling there with a discount. As I say, Aberdeen Audi (ask for Malcolm) were one who were offering discounted prices - and will mail order. You will have to go on EBay to look for Brembo discs anyway - so one stop search. ‘.....speak to some local dealers ....’ . You might stand as much chance of getting a discount as I have of getting my hair back! I really wouldn’t waste their time and yours. Kind regards, Gareth.