Magnet

Hello Oli, I think you are wise to ask as many questions as possible before considering buying this or any other vehicle. To me, this 5 year old car has covered an abnormally high mileage (not always a bad thing in its own right) and this coupled with being wrapped would personally lead me to say ‘Thanks, but not for me’. I think you will find that the car had covered near to 100K in the first 3 years, and it appears strange that was presented for an MOT early in this year - Feb, when the previous MOt did not expire until May. Odd! Such things can happen when the vehicle changes hands and the seller puts the car through an MOT for the buyer. That would make sense, but may not be the true reason. I believe (but please do not take my opinion without confirmation of it being correct) that if a vehicle is declared to be beyond economical repair then the current MOT is withheld by the insurers and a new MOT has to be carried out prior to retaxing the car. Why would someone who covers a high mileage (company use?) want to wrap a car? I just wonder if although the car is believed to have just the one owner, it may have been purchased by a trader/repairer? and is now being offered for sale. I could well be wrong. You quite rightly ask if anyone has any prior knowledge of this one owner car - which is always a wise question to ask- but the answer lies solely with that one owner. Have you tried making contact there, or is the seller the one registered owner? If so, it might be worth being extra careful. As I said Oli, it would not be for me, but if I had to have my arm twisted to be tempted then I would at least be talking with the previous owner, getting the car HPI checked and preferably (definitely?)getting a paid for inspection on it. Is all of that worth worth the hassle with a vehicle you already seem to have some doubts about? There will be others. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Looking at the tyres I’m not surprised you are (very?) dissatisfied with the ride. You just as well have solid tyres, and Mr. Dunlop not have bothered to have invented the pneumatic tyre! Wheels cracking is a serious, serious concern for you, and the good folks of Staffordshire. Are these manufacturer’s original equipment wheels, or aftermarket? Apologies for probably stating the obvious, but the larger the diameter the wheel, the lower the profile of the tyre has to be, since the outside diameter of the wheel and tyre has to stay constant in comparison with the original engineered design. If you (very understandably) want a better ride, then the route to that is to fit smaller diameter wheels with higher profile tyres. You cannot simply fit higher profile tyres to these wheels. You will need to establish what the original equipment standard wheel dia. and tyre profiles were (from your handbook?) and work back from there. Apart from the supposed ‘improvement’ in cornering due to less tyre section to flex, what is the advantage in fitting larger dia. wheels? If the owner always attempts to drive around corners on two wheels - great. If not, then you have just found out the disadvantages of these set ups. Good luck in getting the ride as you want it. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Not to mention the lowering of the suspension - so we haven’t!

Simple things first Richard. Have you had the gas pressure checked/ topped up? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Your mechanic could be right, but it is not unusual to have two coolant temperature sensors/ senders ‘sensing’ the actual coolant temperature. If there are two, one will be sending a signal to the temperature gauge, and I would normally refer to that as a temperature sender. The second, will again sense the coolant temperature and send that ‘resistance value’ to the ECU to control the fuel mixture. I usually refer to this as the coolant sensor. Others may have different interpretations. Having said all that, it is possible (probable even) that yours ( fairly old model) just has one, and this would make more sense since you have two sets of symptoms. What you are suffering from here David is a confusion by on-line motor factors, and this is not at all unusual, so if this were mine, I would be wandering into my local Audi dealer and getting the recommended part from them. Yes, it will cost you more, but you cannot put a price on the inconvenience of being sent wrong parts. The dealers schematic will probably also show its location, so that’s a bonus. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, I'm worried - but I tend to do that! This response is not meant to be critical, but just as I see it, and quite understandably, others may have a more moderate viewpoint. But if this is now tidier than it was, then I would not be going too far in this car without a fire extinguisher! Bare male/female spade connectors, dangling wire-exposed cables, unknown junction covered with some foam (insulation?). Oh dear! If this were mine, I would be attempting to the find a connection plug which plugged into the original radio ( from a scrapped car) and ideally getting someone to connect this back to the original harness wires, so that the wiring is returned to its (safe) original form. Personally, I would be soldering the connections to this replaced plug and insulating the soldered joints with shrink sleeving. Once the set up is returned to its original safe form, you should be able to buy the correct Pioneer converting plug to convert the original to your new set. It seems the previous owner was too mean to invest in one of these converter plugs, or may have been on a bonus handout with the local fire brigade! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Leigh, Yes, you can of course use you usual mobile mechanic, who’s rates you will know. You ask how you can get the battery and alternator checked and my interpretation of the question suggests - without paying your mechanics rates? Apologies if I’ve got that wrong, yet it seems you were prepared to buy a new battery without checking the current one, but would prefer not to pay to get yours tested. If this were mine I would be seeking local recommendations for a trusted auto electrician and driving the car around to theirs so they can carryout the necessary tests for you. Personally, I would entrust this to an auto electrician rather than your mobile mechanic, not because there is anything difficult about these tests, but doing it as I suggests, puts you in touch with electrically experienced assistance, should the battery and alternator prove to be serviceable. Hope this logic helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, To me, your average journey runs would not seem abnormally low enough to cause recurrent issues, and the need to give it an "Italian tune" should not be necessary to the extent you have recently tried. If this were mine, I would be following Dan"s advice and give it one more high rev. cyclic burst run, when it is really hot, to see if this 'buys' you some extra time between issues. If it doesn't, then it would be time to have a serious chat with the selling dealer, although you don't tell us when you bought it ( obviously this will have an effect on what they would be expected to do). If the issue continues, and the dealer is reluctant to rectify it (if a recent purchase) then my next move would be to get the car assessed and reported on by an Audi dealer. This would be necessary to further any negotiations. This issue may relate back to the previous owner's usage. Did you attempt to check its background before purchase? Good luck in getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Although this is an old thread, it might be worth posting that I would say Simon's 800rpm seems far more reasonable that the original posters 1000rpm - which to me is not normal. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Leigh, ‘.....so need to change the battery...’ Sorry but that is not what I would do. I can only repeat my advice and get the battery and alternator efficiency checked. Please do not replace anything until proved to be at fault. Not to lead you into unwarranted expense, my advice was aimed at eliminating - or otherwise - the battery and alternator as possible causes of your warning lights. Location of the battery? Sorry, I’m not sure on your model, but could be under the seat?? Anyway, no need to worry about where it is, since if you are going to follow advice then the auto electrician will know where to find it. Interesting about charging the battery. How did you trickle charge it if you don’t know where it is? Possibly via the cigarette lighter?? If so, not sure it is powered with the ignition off. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alfie, Can we take it you are trying to replace just the dust cover rather than the complete link? If you are intent on buying from motor factors then I would anticipate that the price of a complete link from them may not be that much more than the cost of dust covers ( if available ) from the main dealer. I guess it’s worth asking yourself the question:- if the dust covers are than worn, would you really just want to replace the covers in preference to renewing the complete links? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Glen, Sorry to hear of your problem, and it does sound probable that the noise is associated with a release bearing issue, although it could be the dual mass flywheel ( if your particular model is not fitted with a solid flywheel). I guess you mean you bought this on 05 02 19, and if so, this issue is manifesting itself in some 7 weeks of ownership. I would agree with Cliff that action by the selling dealer will depend on the guarantee the dealer gave you. The length of time is obvious easily assessed, but the ‘small print’ relating to what is and isn’t covered may be more difficult to assess, particularly since most will have some element of exclusion for wear and tear. Clutches, as with individual brake components for example, can be considered as serviceable items which are subject to wear and may not be fully covered, not covered at all, or covered on a partial contribution basis. Some guarantees cover the cost of the parts but not labour - the combination goes on - and only you will be aware which applies to you. You don’t tell us the mileage of the car, but if it is a release bearing issue, then the service life of these can be variable :- our A3 gave probllems at around 150K, but we have previous experience of another German engineered car which went before 60k. If this was my car, I would be e-mailing the garage owner and informing them (in writing) of the issue, rather than simply depending on a phone call message getting through to him when he returns from his holiday. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, I am very sorry to hear of your difficulties, and in my book, I think you are taking a very responsible route with this car, rather than leaving yourself in a situation of unpaid instalments. I am certainly not experienced with this, so cannot offer you any meaningful direct advice, but if were in your situation I think I would be starting with the Citizens Advice, and see what advice and support they can suggest. I really hope you can sort something out. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Not sure why you would have suspected the water pump based on the symptoms you describe. You didn’t change it did you? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, As I said in my response, it was not designed to improve driving experience or as an aid to reduce mechanical wear. It’s concept lies firmly and solely in making a contribution to reducing pollution levels. Your road of 10 stop/restarts is probably a good example, and if you multiply the number of vehicles using that stretch of road at the same time, and assess the time at rest when the emissions from these engines would be zero if they were operated on Stop/restart, then the combined ‘good effect’ would be significant. I think we drivers are generally cosseted from this pollution since as we sit in our little box, but for pavement walkers and residents, the effects are indeed detrimental and significant, and every little helps. I just wonder how long the option of turning off the stop/restart technology will last, and it would surprise me if the option will remain on new vehicles beyond the next couple of years. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Paul, So you have now discovered the wipers and washers do not work with the bonnet open! Good isn’t it? Someone at VAG’s good idea, probably because due to one particular model’s wipers possibly catching on the edge of an open bonnet - or something! Re. a tutorial of using a meter. If this was my car, I would not be connecting a meter to anything on the car, if you are asking how to use a meter. These, like most other ‘modern’ cars, are ‘electronically sensitive’ and it is not advisable to go around connecting test lamps and the like unless you are competent. Appreciating the car is off the road, but I would now stick with my original suggestion and buy an hour’s services of a (mobile) auto electrician - it could be a lot cheaper in the long run. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Wiper stalk at fault? Could be.

Hi Lee, They are normally separate from the ECU coolant temperature sensor, and the two often have two different colour plastic connector heads. Sorry, but I can’t be positive as far as Audi is concerned. If they are separate then the gauge sender usually has two wires, and the coolant temperature sensor sometimes three. Best bet would to to wander into the parts section of your main dealer and they will have a diagram which will help with location, and clarify one-doing -two -jobs or not. Oil leak? Sorry Lee, I can’t offer any suggestion with this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, You could be right, it may need coding. Obviously, it is well beyond the bounds of probability that 7 wiper motors are at fault. I would now want to confirm that the motor is getting a supply voltage ( apologies if you have already confirmed this). If this were mine, having spent time and money in chasing around for 7 motors without success, I would now be at the point of investing an hour’s labour with a trusted local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lee, I think you are diagnosing the issue yourself, and if this was my car, I too would be first renewing the coolant temperature sender. Personally, I would not use an aftermarket one. Fingers crossed that will sort the gauge discrepancy. Next on my list would be be to replace the coolant reservoir cap (again with a VAG one) to ensure the system remains correctly pressurised. This may be the source of your slight coolant loss if you cannot find any external evidence of a leak. I’m from the school of doing one thing and test, otherwise you will not know what corrected the fault. Last component ( if necessary) would be the thermostat. Most certainly VAG only. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jon, Sorry but my experience of diesels is rather limited, but personally I would be tempted to discount glow plugs since I understand they generally don’t come into the equation until the temperature drops below c 5 degrees. Relays, associated with the fuel pump/s may be worth investigating. Very often, it is much easier with these tings to invest in an hour’s services of a diesel specialist, but I would seek some local recommendations before choosing one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Leigh, Simple things first:- I would be getting the battery efficiency checked, together with the alternator output. Appreciating the car is only 3 years old, but these batteries get a hammering with stop/start systems. Recently experienced a total battery failure on an 18 month old Fiesta belonging to a friend. Such things were previously unheard of. ‘Christmas tree’ warning lights can often be as a result of low battery efficiency. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mario, Sorry to hear of your problem. Can I ask if you experience any feeling of ‘pulsing’ or roughness at the clutch pedal when you start to depress it? I would support Dan’s view that this could be associated with the release bearing, but hopefully not the flywheel, but.... Where you bought it, and how it was described in the advert is important, even if it was a private sale. This why it is not so uncommon to see vehicles advertised as simply:- ‘Starts, stops, drives’. It is always difficult to diagnose faults without examining the car, and if it were mine, I would be first seeking advice from a trusted local garage. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ken, It sounds like you deserve to be proud of this car, and feel reluctant to let it go. Well done car! - and well done you for looking after it. I think you are looking for advice on whether to keep it or not. If so, it depends how much sentimental value you (understandably) have in it, and whether that is greater than the potential short term future value increase. The hard commercial fact is that the cost, and responsibility to retain the car is unlikely to be covered by the potential increase in its value, so it is back to the cost of sentiment. I would say the car would need to be undercover, and if you are able to do that without cost, then you are half way there. Of course, road tax will ( might) have to to be factored in, as will MOT charges and insurance, although the car will qualify for relatively low cost classic car cover if you are prepared to seriously restrict its annual mileage. Hope some of this helps Ken, and if you do decide to keep it and want more specific advice then please come back to us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies for being direct Simon, but since you ask where you should focus your attention, I can only reinforce the suggestion of readdresing this with well trusted diesel specialists - or carry a set of ramps around with you and continually run it up on these. Good luck in sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I’m sure your motor factors is right - this is likely to be a main dealer part only. Kind regards, Gareth

I don’t think you can beat personal experience, and all comments are worth studying and following on to form opinions from there. Currently, the Audi A3 and the non Audi, are running on Continentals. My experiences might not be worth much though, since our motoring is not based on trying to get around corners on two wheels, but...... Dunlop? Personally never did much to tempt me into considering buying them, but again, but.... Good luck with your considered decision, and if you base it on buy once and wisely, you shouldn’t go too too far wrong. Having chosen, keep a regular eye on the tyre pressures. Now that is good advice! Kind regards, Gareth.