Magnet

90%/10%? - Intersting. Be useful to know where these precise figures come from. Kind regards, Gareth

Hello Christie, Thanks for coming back. It's probably me, but I'm a little confused on timing and events here:- " Last Friday, a couple of days after I got the car ......... so I called out the AA...." , but if I read your earlier post correctly, it had already been into a garage days before that and had the oil pressure checked and sensor changed. 0w40? Doubtful. Not sure if your year 1.6 would should run on semi synthetic 10w40, but the later ones run on fully synthetic 5/30. I think I would go with a good quality semi synthetic 10/40 for a start. Oil pressure reading at 2 (I take it that is measuring in bar which is about 30psi in old language). If you have 30psi at idle with the oil hot then I would not be worried, but as I say, it has to be measured with the engine oil hot to be meaningful, so test may not mean anything. AA draining off about 10 litres of engine oil - well as unbelievable as this sounds it must be right. I'm sure you will appreciate that that amounts to over 2 gallons excess! What I would do now - which is what I said:- Have engine oil and filter changed, and I would use a good quality semi synthetic 10w/40 and a good quality oil filter. Oil capacity I'm guessing is around 5litres but you need to confirm. Do I know how much London garages charge to change the oil and filter? Sorry no I don't, but just try your local garage. If you are buying the oil, then Wilkinsons (Wilko) are doing Mobil at £24 for 5 litres, and a good quality filter (say Mann or Audi) should be yours for less than £10. Good luck with it Christie, Gareth.

Although I understand Piotr's point about some grooving on the brake discs (or rotors as they say in the US of A! ) it has to be realised that although this is not ideal, it is a fact of service life, and it is surprising how quickly this now occurs ( anything to do with brake pad compounds and the suggestion some years ago that discs now wear as quickly as pads). Anyway, the simple fact is that it is the pad which causes this wear, and it is not logical that the grooves reduce the braking efficiency since the pads wear in peaks which correspond to the disc groove, so 100% contact. As far as the disc thickness is concerned ( lip on edge) then this can only be assessed by measurement against the specified minimum acceptable thickness. You didn't tell us what make pads were used Andrew. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, I'm even boring myself now by asking posters to answer a couple of questions! Were the repalcement pads genuine VAG or aftermarket ones, and if aftermarket, what make? It seems pretty certain that the disc were not changed at the same time. Dan and Trevor's advice just may well sort this out for you. There is now a school of thought against the use of a smear of copper grease on back faces of the pads - in favour of silicone grease. Good luck in getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Christie, A couple of questions, as is my want! :- What engine do we have here, and can we take it that the mileage on this 16 year old car is now reasonably high? Do you know what oil is being used and when that oil and filter were last changed? I'm from the old school of doing the simplest/ least costly things first, and if it were mine, I would/ would have treated it to an oil change and a good quality oil filter, and see what happens. I would ask the garage what the oil pressure readings actually were, and if they were carried out with the oil at its operating temperature. Incase it helps in the future, any road test should be a minimum of 10 miles to ensure the oil has reached its operating temperature. No good testing oil pressures/ oil lights when the coolant has reached Normal - the oil will need another few miles to get up to temperature, as you have found out. But who road tests cars over this mileage? It's usually fallen-in-love time before this! If this is diesel by any chance, then you may have engine oil diluted by diesel, but we are moving away towards assumptions, before we know the facts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlie, Not sure if this is going to help or hinder, but we had a similar ESP fault light on a 2006'A3 some time ago, and this turned out to be a fault (common at the time) with the actual ABS unit - valve or valves as I recall. Audi were doing a "part ABS" unit, which cured the problem. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, Um? "So I may just have to take a chance...... There aren't any particular problems that I need be aware of are there? Well Jason, as I see it it's the bit "so I may just have to take a chance....." - that's the potential problem. It's always difficult to advise at a distance and it's again its always likely that any advice can be putting a dampener on the pleasurable process of buying. I would guess (due to its age) that this car is being sold by a non franchise dealer, and I take it you have seen the V5 to be able to get the last keeper's name. I just wonder if this owner is localish to where the car is now being sold, and if so then it's reasonable to assume it's come through the local trade channels and been part exchanged possibly through a main dealer. If so, then it should be easy to make contact. If the owner is not local to where it's being sold, then there is a chance that its come through the auction route! Three things Jason:- Have you tried visiting your local Audi dealer armed with the reg. No. and asking them if they will check the history for you.? Wondered if you have tried the good old fashioned BT Directory Enquiries for the keeper's contact number. Wondered if you were going to have this inspected to minimise the ...take a chance..? Good luck with it . Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Take it you have run an MOT history check on this. Advisories like tyres near the limit etc. often give an indication of how careful the owner has been.

Hello David, Many thanks for filling in the detail for us. This is understandable to point, but if Audi are subcontracting the extended warranties then, as I see it, the buck stops at Audi rather than the subcontracted insurer, and any discontents should be laid at Audi's door. Depends on whether you want to do battle with them to give them money to insure your possible mechanical failures. I don't think I would David. Would I personally take out an alternative one year cover on an 18k three year old car? No, I wouldn't. My alternative would be to put my trust in a local garage who come with a good reputation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jason, As an addition to Steve's sound and comprehensive advice, I would also be in touch with the previous keeper, since despite having service history up to the hilt, owners get rid of cars for a reason - which they know, but you won't, unless you enquire. To me, this step is as important as checking the service history and arranging an inspection. The fully story rests with them. Good luck with your impending purchase. Kind regards, Gareth.

This remains an expensive mystery. I understand where Dan is coming from in regard to checking the rear wheel bearings as well, since I have found that noises transmit, and it can sometimes be difficult to determine actually where that transmitted noise originates. Taper roller bearings on the rear are fairly rare in my experience but.... Re. Inner CV joints - I too am of the opinion that these normally cause vibration, but can obviously also cause clonking on taking up the drive. Interesting to see what happens from here. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, Cutting to the chase and keeping this brief, I would simply return to the dealer and ask them to put in writing what they have told you, and then you can pass this on to Audi Customer Services. Kind regards, Gareth,

Only if he parks next to a BMW! Come on, catch up, think about it! Kind regards, Gareth (for Brad).

Hello David, Steve raises a good point about whether you have already paid for this, or were inticed to buy the car when new because of the option of being able to take this on after the 3 years. I just wonder if you have personally taken this up with Audi Customer Services , or if this is information received via. an IOM dealer. Seems like some dilution of discrimination to me. Might be worth asking them to confirm in writing whether this applies to the Scottish islands as well! An interesting topic David, and one which would be interesting to hear about the follow up. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Piotr, Not really sure what you mean, but possibly something to do with the terminology. I meant "serviceabiliy" to mean what it does mean - it's ability to carryout the function it was designed to do, and nothing to do with being able to pull it apart to fiddle with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, I'm very much with Piotr on this when he says preparation is more important than spraying. Stonechip is useful for areas which are subject to excessive attack from gravel etc. and it would seem that the area you are treated would be one, but Audi had reason to believe their original paint system didn't need it. Now stonchip is also used by owners to short curcuit the necessary surface preparation which results in a good finish, so it's used as a bodge. One thing I would ask Craig is what are you going to do with the surface which is currently coloured maroon? If you are going to respray this as well, then you should really prepare this properly before putting anything on anywhere, since all the preparation on this is going to run over your stone chip area. I always do all the preparation in one operation first if possible. If the stonechip nozzle has a pinhole rather than a slot (as they often do) then you have to be careful of applying too much, too fast in any one area, and you certainly have to apply it thinly in many coats with a good 10 mins. between coats. My guess is you've applied it too thickly and I bet with the can too Close to the job - yes, I know we have a culture of if all else fails, read the instructions but...! So you are now unfortunately in the pickies a bit here, since stonechip doesn't sand! Careful, and I stress careful, use of cellulose thinners to clean it off (please do not get it near to any paintwork on anything) might help. Then start again and prepare the whole surface properly. It isn't such .s...... to use, but it has to be used with respect for what it was designed for and how it is recommended to be applied. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Finish colour:- I would ensure any aerosol of finish colour (and particularly lacquer) you use, has a slotted nozzle rather than a pinhole - as some of the cheaper one do. Pinhole nozzles are more susceptible to putting too much paint onto an area, and then it runs.

Thanks Gav, I guess you might have to narrow NI down a bit if it would help you to find someone who would be able to recommend a suitable independent to examine and rectify this, but..... I can only repeat that if it were mine, I would be urgently seeking localish experienced hands-on inspection and rectification rather than looking too closely on here, or dealing with your complaint issue with the people who did the work. Dramatic perhaps, but treat tomorrow with the respect that it could be the day that this assembly does something nasty if you are not happy with it - as you aren't. I think you are absolutely correct in being concerned, but I am concerned for you that your concern! - may be getting misplaced rather than acted upon. Good luck, Gareth.

In case it helps Paul, and his wallet, I think I might dilute the statement that "no way a 10 year old battery will be OK". If it's an aftermarket battery then I would most certainly agree, but if it's the original battery then it's certainly worth having it checked for serviceabiliy rather than assuming it's unserviceable. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Battery test sounds like a voltmeter testing the alternator output voltage and the voltage at the battery with lights on etc. Ok, but..... the ultimate tests are if the battery is able to retain the charge which is put into it, and be able to efficiently produce the high current demand placed in it when starting -while maintaining an acceptable voltage. Halfords normally carry out battery testing and are able to give you a % efficiency reading which will firmly point you to whether the battery is as serviceable as it should be. If you do eventually have it tested and if it does need replacing, you can then decide where you will get one from. As you say, you don't want to buy a new battery, and I wouldn't too, so let's hope it all works out in the end. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gav, You will have to excuse me if I've got this all wrong, but I sense this is (or likely to be ) developing into a potential battle between yourself and the dealer you dealt with. To me, the prime objective here is to get this belt assembly inspected by an experienced (Audi independent?) and the necessary adjustments or replacements made without delay, rather than you and us on here - at a distance - trying to analyse the issue. I really don't see the proper and rapid resolution of this should be hampered by trying to work it all out on a DIY basis. As I say, sorry if you don't see the same (urgent) course of action that I do, but I just wondered how you would feel if anything did actually go wrong with this belt assembly while you are trying to work it out on your own. Yes, you might have some redress, but would you really want to be arguing over the resultant scrap car? As a matter of interest. what part of the U.K. are you , incase someone can recommend an independent in your area? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, As Steve says- fingers crossed. iF it turns out that there is a problem then If it were mine, I would be spending half an hour's time with a good auto electrician who can check whether there is any parasitic drain on the battery for you - rather than spending probably more money on plugging it into a computer. You've had nine years out of the battery (if original) , and long may it continue to be trouble free, but it could be worth bearing in mind that when it does need changing that it may be worth sticking to a battery with a minimum of 4 years guarantee, and these can often be bought just as economically as your average 3 year one if you shop around. As a matter of interest Paul - " Battery is fine" - wondered how you had it checked . Good luck with it all, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Varta battery is likely to indicate it is the original, and I'm with Steve on this that the battery has done its time. If so, and it needs renewing, I have used Battery Warehouse (I think) at Tewkesbury. They do good mail order deals and seem nice people to deal with- no connection and no doubt there are others. £200 for a battery! I would have to be sitting down. Good luck, Gareth.

Hello Scott, Sorry to hear of your issue. On non--Audi marques with air suspension, a very common cause of such issues is wear in the piston ring of the air compressor pump, which is a small unit (about the size of a beans tin). I'm not sure where it's located on the Audi. A good contact for Jaguar and LR air suspension piston rings is Bagpipingandy on EBay. Andy is very experienced in the manufacture of rings and overhaul of suspension compressors, and I'm sure would point you in the right direction. OK, fault code checking might help, but if it were mine I would treat it to a new piston ring anyway due to the age of the car - unless it's a really major job to get at it. Cost about £25 for the part. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, Nasty. Apologies if I'm being a bit thick, but is this second? episode recent, and can I take it the Audi tester has retained the defective tyres this time for Dunlop's attention? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David , Yes, OK "use Audi for now" but I notice the car is just a year old ( if we are talking the same car here) and if so it's obviously under warranty and I wonder about any degree of DIY on this, even using Audi parts. My view is DIY oil changes equals significant cost savings, so buying the proper filters simply has a very minimal % on cost and not worth the bother over aftermarket. Not even a pint of beer over a 1000 miles of use?? Audi filters (and other parts) at discount? You could try Rainesworth Skoda (Skoda Parts Shop on EBay) .I'm sure there are others. Porsche Boxter DIY oil changes and a search for cheap filters? Well David, they say the Welsh have deep pockets and short arms! No offence - after all, we have confirmed your cheaper Quantum oil is fine and given you a contact source for cheaper genuine filters. Must be worth a wee dram! Seriously, Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gavin, "Tyres? I have learnt never to ignore the simple things...." Tyre on the side with the wrong rotation direction? - Correctly fitted on the rim but just on the wrong side of the car?? Let's hope that is not contributing to the noise. Kind regards, Gareth.