Magnet

Hello Pete, I must say I feel for your colleague and his, and his son's problems. Generally we are not privy to the day to day burdens that friends and colleagues have to endure, and the tendency is to be a little critical of behavioural problems, when we are not walking in their shoes as the saying goes. The 'cannot get on with him' opinion is probably understandable, but perhaps this is an engineered attitude on his part to avoid anyone getting too close to him. I have found that being nice to people who are not nice to you, can sometimes break down barriers and very often the story behind the behaviour comes to light. Support, without intrusion can mean a lot to such people who are in difficulties - if only a tap on the shoulder and some words along the line of ' I don't suppose I can help, and it's difficult for me to understand your problems, but I would like you to know I'm here for you if you think I can help'. More often you can't, but it's the reassurance that you care is the all important bit. I recall reading Bob Monkhouse's autobiography where he relates that he blamed himself for not trying to sort out Dennis Goidwin ( I think it was) problems that led to his suicide - to a point where the shrink put him right and said ' don't think you are that good to have prevented that' . Good point I guess but... To end on a more upbeat note, Monkhouse also relates the night he spent at Dianna Dor's house tied to the bed. Nothing happened except he was left tied to the bed all night. In the morning he was told not to be so presumptuous! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, With apologies for the potential to bore, but I do better understand your plight when we learn the car has only covered 10K miles since the last main dealer belt and pump change. What I would say is to spend some time in shopping around - I would anticipate there is no rush. London area rates? Again it's guess work, but it's fair to believe that London and surrounding areas rates may be higher than most other areas, and perhaps the frequency of promotional deals on cambelt changes may be far less. Is it worth trying dealers well out of your area to see what quotes you get there, since it may be beneficial to spend a little more on fuel to save on the cost? Again, you could ask dealers in your area to keep your contact details on the books incase promotions come along. Good luck with it , Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Eduard, If I'm reading this correctly, then you are 'back on the road', the car is useable, you can unlock the driver's door with the new key and I assume you can unlock the other doors once inside. If so, as I see it, the remote doesn't work, but bearing in mind this is a 17 year old car, does it really matter much? OK a bit inconvenient, but..... As Steve says, the main dealer can probably re-code your remote (cost?). Worth ringing for a quote? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, Thanks for coming back with the additional useful information. If it were mine, knowing that a genuine VAG water pump was used last time (number of miles covered since? - very low?) I would be tempted to leave well alone on this and not replace the pump again this time, when the belt and assembly is changed. Subject to it proving serviceable on dismantling. I appreciate that costs matter, but to me, this most critical of applications job should not be influenced by a 'cost is king' approach. VAG dealers often have promotions on cambelt assembly changes, so well worth keeping an eye out. OEM parts? Minefield of a description, and I would simply just not go there unless you really must cut costs, and if that is the case then my only-one exception aftermarket make would be Gates - but I would not use their water pumps if you are going to allow this to be changed. OK independents at cheaper rates:- They may say they will use genuine VAG parts (or the horrible term OEM parts) but in reality, you will not have any guarantee that that will be the case - and how do you check? In summary, my approach would be to investigate the cheapest price you can get at a main dealer, and if necessary, play one off against the other. In the end, the cost spread over 5 years is not alarming and is probably well worth it on a spend once and wisely basis. Any variance from genuine parts may result in a bit of a saving, but I this assembly decides to break loose then you end up with a beyond -economical -repair car. Worth the risk?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, I think that your question will be of interest to many owners who (perhaps in retirement for example) cover relatively small mileages. In the days when I had hair, - and pre-cambelt- such cars were serviced once a year, and were considered desirable secondhand purchases due to their low mileage. Indeed, I have a couple of pals who would shudder at the thought of buying anything other than low mileage cars, and I refer to them 'buying speedometers' (well oddometers really). Such cars can often have had a fairly hard life with frequent stop starts, clutch operation, door opening and closing, seat wear from getting in and out etc. etc. Of course, having said that, we now have the stop/start system fitted to our cars - something I dislike, but. Surprisingly to me, our local bus service has a new bus which has this, and everytime it stops to pick up passengers, the engine cuts out! Progress!? Anyway Keith, none of this helps you at all. Cambelts and c5 year change on time basis? Yes it's a questionable expense, but spread over 5 years then the cost is peanuts compared with the average motorists fuel bill over the same time. Yes, they are likely be capable of longer service life, but this must be balanced against the (terminal?) cost of a belt failure, and as I indicated earlier, the wear rate and strain on these belts is likely to be aggravated by more frequent starts and the resultant stress than would be the case with higher mileage cars. One vitally important aspect to consider if changing on time is the 'quality' of the replacement parts used - particularly the water pump( critical) , since aftermarket ones can fail at relatively low mileages. Not sure what cambelt and pump were fitted last time, and dependent on that information, it may be essential to change again without delay. Just let us know. I have known non-Audi (main dealer) cambelts to be on an auction site at fairly high discounts, and when you ask whether these are current manufacture dated stocks, the enquiry goes quiet - the answer probably being that these belts are possibly in excess of 5 years old before they are fitted! Perhaps there are some pointers there for you Keith. General servicing? At 3K/ annum - say every two years (max). Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Marco, In the absence of other replies, my thinking on this is that it is was originally set on a longlife schedule and as such, I believe it would not be unusual for this car to run to around 19k miles before servicing. Two things which confuse me is that it's normal for average contract mileage PCP cars to be set on a nearer annual servicing plan - to reap greater rewards from the customer - an explanation might rest with your contract including an add on premium to cover a maintenance plan. Did you sign up for a maintenance plan? Also, I would have expected this car to have been called for servicing when it was two year old - irrespective of longlife schdules. I think Paul has a good point, about getting your query confirmed in writing. If this is not forthcoming then you could do a sort of reverse confirmation by sending them an e-mail based on .......' Further to my conversation with ....... on ..,,,,,,,, I understand and accept that car (reg. No. ) is not due for servicing at or shortly after this date...' Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Beets, Just nip back to the dealer and get them to show you how they work? - or agree they don't work, and rectify the problem. Usually, there isn't any switch, and they automatically come on when the boot is opened. Sometimes, but very rarely, the main lights have to be on before they work. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ally, Perhaps someone will be able to identify this and give you a number or letter, but have you tried going into your local dealer and asking them to identify the correct one for you? Kind regards, Gareth.

I really wouldn't buy one and use it on a complex electrically controlled car if you are asking what to check and how. To repeat, the only sound advice I can give is to now put that money towards an hour of an auto electrician's time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Not easy to work on electric windows or anything electrical without a meter and a knowledge and experience of how to use. I think that if this was mine, I would be investing in a hour of a trusted auto electrician's time to at least get an experienced diagnosis on this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Before moving into the mechanics of this, have you measured the actual voltage at the motors to check that they are receiving at least the 12v. as they should be? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, It is always worth checking the fuses to make sure they haven't blown, and indeed to give them a 'wiggle' in the holder to minimise the risk of poor contact. With regard to 'other fuses missing' , I guess you have consulted the handbook to ensure the 'missing' fuses are for equipment fitted to your car. The fuse board is usually set up to cater for a full range of equipment which can be fitted, but often isn't, so there could appear to be missing fuses when they were never fitted originally. Reverse light switch location? :- not sure on your engined car. Often fitted so it gets actioned by the external selector lever position for reverse gear, or sometimes fitted into the gearbox casing to be actioned from inside when reverse is selected. Might be one of those jobs where an hour out with an auto electrician may be worthwhile. The existing switch really needs to be checked for 'switching make and break' before buying another one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Adam, I would be suspecting the reverse light switch is at fault, and is remaining 'closed circuit' when not activated by the reverse gear selection. That is why they have taken the fuse out- so they don't work at all! If it proves not to be that then it could be a wiring problem, but check this first. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Piotr, Sorry to bother you, but could you broaden my knowledge on these things (needs updating) by letting me know how the factory (VAG?) can independantlly 'block' the performance of an individual 12 year old car? Hope you don't mind. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

I calculate that at £3000 to £4000 per hour! - plus the cost of a trip from lovely Powys to Teesside.

Hello Nick, Sorry to hear you are having an issue. As you say, this is a classic wheel balance characteristic at this speed, but to now assume that it isn't because the wheel refurbishers would have rebalanced them, is a simple assumption, and may or may it be correct. This problem could also be associated with a defective tyre, and if it is, then this must be seen to with some urgency. If it were my car, I would get this down to your local trusted tyre depot. as soon as possible and ask them to thoroughly check all tyres ( with the wheels off) and then check the balance. Only when you have done this can you assume the problem isn't associated with tyres or balancing. Good luck with sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Not quite sure what your opening comment is meant to imply Tony, in terms of my earlier ( postive and supportive I think) responses to Mario. Contacting the DVLA is fine and positive, but they will not amend critical V5 data without supporting evidence that the currently held data is incorrect. Personally, I think that is only fair and reasonable, and I'm sure Mario will now be able to collect the data he requires to resolve this. Kind regards, Gareth.

What plastic part Paul?

Hello Tom, Thanks for coming back with the extra information. If the car was first registered? Feb. 2015 then the warranty would have expired in Feb. of this year - so too late now, so onward and upward! Blocked core? I would really simply forget that as a possibility, since the car is less than 5 years old. It is likely to still have its original OAT coolant which lasts at least for that time, and in reality nearer twice as long without major issue. As you point out, the coolant will be changed at the cambelt and water pump change ( suggest main dealer or Gates cambelt kit, and certainly main dealer only for the water pump - without question - in caps!) Back to heater:- I share your opinion that the problem here relates to a heater control valve, and if this were mine, I would wander into my local Audi dealer and ask about 'this valve'. They would then clarify what is what in relation to what it is, and if they tend to give problems. Hopefully, someone much more up on this will come along on here and give you better advice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tom, I assume you have individual heater controls to separately regulate the temperature on driver and passenger sides, and by what you say about the different temperatures of the heater hoses, it is probable that both sides lack heat. You could try squeezing the hoses with the engine up to temperature and running, and controls set to max. heat - obviously respecting all safety requirements. You might find you will feel air locks and the hoses will then reach the same temperature. I have my doubts this will work however, but worth a try. Blocked core? I seriously doubt this on a car of this age. Personally I would not try to back flush it? My stab at this is that it is some form of electrical control valve issue, but a guess it is. By what you say about the fault existing since last year, it would seem that the car was marginally in/ just out of warranty, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Since both front windows are similarly affected, are there any logical answers to these questions:- Is it likely that both regulators or both motors are at fault. If this is indeed unlikely, is there any - perhaps electrical - component which is common to both window? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Has the actual voltage at the motors been checked?

Hello Andrew, Welcome to the forum. I can well understand the difficulty in describing this part - to be able to have any chance of finding a replacement. Not meant as being critical, but when I first read your reference to 'strut' , my mind was tuned in to something associated with the suspension. Cross tie bar, chassis cross link bar, etc. may be alternatives, but a better description than yours?? Incase it helps, the corresponding upper pressed panel ( from wing to wing) is often called a closing panel, so perhaps lower closing link bar. No doubt you have already been there, but have you tried visiting (not phoning) as many Audi dealers as possible. I appreciate that the part will be no longer available but I would be surprised if all the schematics associated with the car have been destroyed. If you fail there, it might be worth checking with Audi Technical (in writing). These approaches should at least provide a description of the part - hopefully a part number. If you can eventually find a part number, then it is possible that some sort of dealer network part-still-on-stock enquiry facility exists where dealer stocks are checked nationally. Another option:- Are there any 'modern classics' Audi specialist about? - worth a Google. If so, these would be my first port of call. Everything fails option:- Get a replacement made. OK expensive and where? Armed with the old unit off and precise dimensions on required length, I would approach your local Technical College -try to wander into the entrance to the workshops with a helpless look, rather than going to reception. They are often looking for projects for the students. Hope some of the above may help. Keep us posted. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Everything fails option:- I might, and it would have to be a might, know someone in my locality who could be prepared to make one for you, but I would prefer to keep this as a tried- everything-else option, rather then enquiring at this stage.

Hello Paul, Possibly will be considered a cheap bodge, but it could be worth spraying some WD40 or similar ( I now used GT85) down the felt window runners - front and back. Partly lower the window before squirting. It might well cure it or it might ease the problem. These window mechanisms are designed to stop closing if there is a restriction, and the restriction may be aggravated by tight runners. If it doesn't work then its doors cards off and see what is going on and if lubrication there might help. Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Mario, Very pleased this has been sorted. I've been 'off air' for a few days, but reading through the posts, my view was that the answer rested with making a simple contact with Audi. Glad it worked out for you. Probably being rather critical, but I'm not sure whether assumptions ( once interpreted as 'making an !Removed! of you and me') - such as cut and shut etc. is very useful, since assumptions are all they are, and help and progress can only be made by studying known fact, or making suggestions of how to obtain fact. Still.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, Regretably, many threads end up remaining open ended, and the potential for helping others with similar problems are lost. I'm not saying the following investigation is going solve your issue, but....... Have a look at,and a twiddle with, the harness as it passes from the bodywork through to the boot/hatch lid. This is a fairly common source of issues since it is continually flexed, and the wires can eventually snap and cause intermittent curcuit failure. Worth stripping back the harness covering if it proves suspect. Kind regards, Gareth.