Magnet

Let’s try to move this on, by winding it back a bit! If (in caps) the local garage has sufficiently sophisticated equipment to full access the efficiency of your battery, and declare it below par:- They are likely to fit a best-deal-to-them battery from the local motor factory, or, fingers crossed not one of a 3 letter chain under brand Lion, or the rebranded Starline ( or something like that). Like most other marques, modern cars are becoming more and more battery condition sensitive, so buy once and wisely - I suggest nothing with less than a four year warranty. What brands were you offered on line up to £150, and from which suppliers? Such information will likely be of help to others. You will see looking back on ‘Battery’ associated threads, that I currently favour Exide, and have bought from Tayna and other suppliers.

So have you got min. and max marks? Sometimes Fill and Full.

Many thanks Steve, Wonderful! We once had rust to kill off cars, then well beyond-the-need electronics, engineeringly averse stop/start systems. Now a milk carton’s worth of engine oil! Progress-?

Hi Steve, It has been suggested to us that we should prompt and encourage non responding posters to respond before warning them - as a last resort. Guess we and other helpful members on here have nothing better to do! Regards, Gareth.

Geoffrey, You posted your plea for help almost a week ago, and have simply not bothered to return to the forum to let us have the clarification asked for. Do you intend to do so?

Hello Tim, Can see you returned to the forum yesterday, so any good reason why you can’t update us on the current situation?

Hello Alex. Notice you returned to the forum about 19 hours ago, but we still await to hear what has happened since you posted almost 2 weeks ago.

Hello Samantha, You are welcome to advertise it on here under ‘Cars for sale’. Include full details, a couple of photos and the price you want for it. Regards, Gareth.

What brand of parts did he use?

Hello Andrew, it’s probably me but I just can’t get my head around the stated fact that adding 300mls of oil raised the level from ‘only a drop on the end of the dipstick’ to ‘the full mark’. As I understand it, the volume difference from the min. to max. is usually 1 ltr. Regards, Gareth.

Any answer Reece? Notice you have returned to the forum early evening.

I wasn’t talking manufacturer’s warranty, but the warranty you get with garages fitting labour intensive parts, so you don’t have any redress if anything going pear shaped at any point. If you are happy to take the risk, then that fine.

You can kiss good bye to any warranty if you pay cash.

It should run at a steady 90 after a few minutes and shouldn’t fluctuate. Worth getting the thermostat renewed. Whether that would cure your coolant leak is very debatable, but you have to have the car running at its optimum temperature.

Any progress to report Alastair, so that we can hopefully close the thread off?

Any progress Alex?

Can see you have returned to the forum since the last post - so any answer to the question, so that we can close the thread - or not?

Seems to be a lot of assistive comments made on this thread, but not a lot of positive progress. Contributors seem to have reached a stage where repeating is all that can be done.

Possibly Jon, but worth an eliminating check. It’s always worth eliminating what you can. Sticky brakes on one or more wheels?? Worth jacking up each wheel in turn first thing in the morning and checking each wheel for any significant drag. Prior to that, you could try leaving the handbrake off overnight to assess whether that makes any difference. Regards, Gareth.

But you said it loses power over a few days - during with it spends a fair bit of the day sitting unused I guess. Any objection to taking it to Halfords for checking as suggested a number of times?

So long story short Andrew:- When you put (all of?) the 1 litre of supplied oil in, where is the level now showing on the dipstick on level ground first thing in the morning before starting the engine?

Engine mountings??

Welcome Andrew, and sorry to hear of your unacceptable issue. My logic points to it being highly unlikely that the car would have left the factory without the engine being (automatically) filled to the correct level with oil. Even if it had, then it would be very remiss to have missed this check on the P.D.I. What mileage did it have at the point of collection? So, what has happened to your engine oil in 174 miles over 6 days? Burnt it, or leaked it?? What oil have you used to top it up Andrew, and did you buy it ( given it?) from an Audi dealership? I must say, I would be very concerned if this were mine. Perhaps you could let us know what happens from here. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Marilyn, There is an understandable assumption that this battery is at fault for the reason I’ve already given, but an assumption it is, until proved to be sub-standard. As Cliff points out, checking the alternator output would be a very wise first move, before charging the battery and getting its overall efficiency checked on professional equipment. As mentioned, Halfords stores can do this and check the alternator output. If you respect your card, it would be wise to comeback to us before committing to buy. Another possibility is that the car is suffering from a parasitic drain, whereby some circuit/s are not shutting down, and discharging the battery. Summary:- test battery and alternator first, and report back and we can hopefully help you further. Regards, Gareth.

‘..hit the front end in bulk…’ Exactly what are you going to do/replace Reece? Surely the logical way forward would be to first get the car re inspected by the garage who changed the 2 arms and tie rod. If you don’t get a firm diagnosis of where the fault lies, then you are just going to be throwing parts at it in the hope of a resolution. Not a good policy. Regards, Gareth.