Magnet

Hello Ryan, My suggestion:- Do not touch the car, but get it transported back to the garage(?) that renewed the cambelt. Any attempt to DIY diagnose the cause may invalidate the guarantee you have with the belt fitment. Did you supply the parts by any chance, or were they supplied by the garage? Was the water pump and auxiliary belt changed at the same time? Regards, Gareth.

Removed all (in caps) spark plugs before testing each cylinder in turn? Checked your new compression tester on a known good engine?

Welcome Steven, Can we take it this is just for an inter-service top up? If so, you really need to visit your Audi dealer and buy a litre of the oil they will choose for you according to your reg. no. Yes, I know you will pay a bit extra, but this takes away any future claim that you used the incorrect oil. Make sure you keep the receipt in case needed for evidence at sometime. Please come back to us with the answer to the question. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Stephen, and thanks for joining. What mileage has the car done, and at what intervals has it been serviced? If you do a forum search for ‘gearbox oil service’ you should come up with a number of threads covering this, and mainly dismissing Audi’s claim that it doesn’t require servicing. Please let us know what you think/decide. Regards, Gareth. p.s. when you use the Search box, please select ‘Everywhere’ from the drop down menu.

Not sure if you are extracting the urine here, and we are all wasting our time trying to help you! Last chance to attempt to get some sense:- Let us know step by step exactly how you used the compression tester to measure the compressions on each cylinder. Any answer such as ‘I stuck it in the plug hole’ will render me out of the game as well, so please take your time and sit down and go through your procedure step by step. Regards, Gareth.

Exactly how did you check the compression on each cylinder?

So simple question;- Have you taken the cambelt cover off and checked the cambelt? If not, are you going to?

Hello Tanzeel. No compression? That’s exactly why I asked you if the engine spins over faster than normal! If you don’t have any compression ( as you have now proved) then it must do. Have you checked the cambelt/chain?

Thanks Mike, Could well be due to an air lock - let’s hope so. Please let us know how things progress. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Kevin, but you have just repeated the question I tried to advise on in my reply to you. Re. costing:- depended on whether the tray is still in tact or not. Whether you supply the new fixings or not. Difficult to estimate labour costs since we don’t have any idea who you intend using, but I would guess at an hour’s work.

Hello Kevin, Worth looking on EBay for fixings similar to the remaining one. Usually self tapping screws that go into a slide on captive chimney nut. Buy stainless self tappers. I’ve used Kay’s Fasteners ( on EBay) to good effect. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Jill, If it were mine, I’d shop around for non-Audi ones, many of which have ‘cut lines’ to allow trimming to fit (if necessary). Your card will very much appreciate you staying away from Audi. Regards, Gareth.

Just be careful - they can be slippery in the wet, but handy to put under a wheel if you get caught in the snow!

Hello Paul, Just wondering what the updated situation now is with the problem. Regards, Gareth.

Regrettably another post-and-run member.

Rubber for winter.

Many thanks Jill, I’ve found Mon Motors good to deal with for parts. Regards, Gareth.

All of this now points to an ailing battery then.

Fully agree of course John. Just bear in mind that you will be conveying this important detail to a service receptionist for onward transmission to the person who is going to inspect it. I would write this down in a clear fashion and ask them to attach it to the worksheet. Otherwise a fair chance of ‘no fault found’. Regards, Gareth.

So that’s a Yes then Jon.

OK John, All very different now then, but far more clearly explained. As has been explained so many times, it is effectively meaningless to attempt to test a battery’s efficiency using a simple multimeter. Repeating- it needs to have all its parameters assessed under load with professional equipment.

Thanks Jon, So does all that boil down to it still wont be replaced under warranty?

Hello John, ’Standing’ battery voltage of 12.1v does not bode well. Expect nearer to 12.4. ’Engine running’ voltage of around 11 volts is totally inadequate (should be c14.5 v) and points to the alternator being inoperative.

Hello Sean, If the matrix is blocked, then any amount of flushing is unlikely to result in a cure. You have to ensure the matrix itself isn’t blocked/ partially blocked, before moving on to other possible causes.

New one Kelvin? Motors in Motion ? Not sure if other members have heard of these, but I haven’t. Could you please share contact details and price-? Regards, Gareth.