Magnet

Welcome Rebecca, There have been quite a few threads on here about oil consumption over the last year or so, so it would be well worth doing a forum search on the subject, then coming back to us once you have digested the comments posted. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Paul, We have had a couple of even shorter posts, but yours is up there with the best. Worth going back to the bus stop before where you are now, and giving us a bit of history about the car’s maintenance to date, and if/when the current cambelt was last changed -? What advice have you had to date and from where? Suggest you have a search on here under ‘Cambelt’ and come back to us. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Tanzeel and thanks for joining. ’…what can be the issue.’ ? It could be any one of a dozen reasons, which can only be boiled down by carrying out a diagnostic check on the car and seeing what codes come up. What is the history of the car, and any lead-up symptoms prior to this issue? Regards, Gareth.

Thanks again Tim, I feel it’s right that Stevey Y’s opinion is taken seriously, since his experience is based on covering very high mileages, and therefore suffering more component failure than probably anyone else on here. Having said that, when you boil it down, yours is not to attempt to diagnose where the actual issue lies - if indeed the problem is associated with just one component in the clutch assembly. Yours is to entrust the repair to those who are going to do it, and you will have to go with their diagnosis - as I see it. Steve will confirm or refute this, but I wonder if the slave cylinder on your model is the now common concentric cylinder ( blinking plastic cup/ washing up bowl technology inside the bell housing-?) If it is, then £250 sounds daftly cheap, which leads me to believe it must be external to the gearbox bell housing. If it were mine, I would be stepping back a bit and be ‘leaving the medical diagnosis to the GP’, and just sitting back and hope it all works out - or attempt to reject the car now. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, May have to do this by a process of throwing some parts at it, starting with the front suspension leg ( and top mount) These should be changed as a pair, but try the offending side first. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Are you sure the wheel is true? Worth swapping it with one of the others. I think you said the impact was at the top of the wheel -?Very odd, normally 3/9 o’c. How did that happen?

My suspicion is that there is/will be a spate of this based around Covid, when vehicles were build and ‘stored’ waiting for bits of electronic to be manufactured. Standing unused for months can be the death of batteries. Regards, Gareth.

Hello again Tim, I think it’s worth sitting back and giving this a couple of coats of thinking about. Of course you can request ( and even insist) that only genuine VAG supplied M/S is fitted, but in reality that isn’t going to happen, and you won’t know whether they have or not - even if they say they have. The remit will be to renew, and ensure it keeps working through any guarantee period. Good luck whatever you decide. Regards, Gareth.

So you had to buy two secondhand ones before one of them worked-?

Some general comments based on experience of stop/start systems on non-Audi vehicles:- The operation of this (engineering averse) system is dependent on monitoring a number of parameters relating to the battery’s overall efficiency. A below-par battery will efficiently start the car, but will certainly adversely affect the operation of the S/S system, so if the S/S system doesn’t operate over a period of time, then battery efficiency testing would be my first port of call. Testing with a multimeter is meaningless - it needs to be tested on professional equipment which measures its efficiency under load, and takes in parameters such as cold cranking currents etc. Halfords stores will generally carryout these tests. If a new battery is needed, then getting a replacement there could upset your wallet. Battery charge condition will also affect the operation of the S/S system, and it may not operate if the vehicle is frequently used on short journeys - for example. Radio left on for 45 mins? Lucky, it doesn’t have a built in time-out cut off. With family non Audi vehicles from the same maker, the radio automatically shuts down after 3 minutes! Replaced batteries will need to be coded to the car on most post c2008 models. Just an overview which might help. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Alan, Just watch them on consumables such as brake pads and discs, borderline MOT issues - all at silly prices to get done with them. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks for the update Mike, Personally, I would never use carburettor cleaner on any rubber component.

Hello Alan, As Cliff says. The best advice ( with reasoning) will be found in a number of threads over the last year or so. I would be very surprised if the Service Manager, or anyone else at Audi would agree with the comments you will find on here in relation to cambelt changes, but might be worth looking at a recent post where a cambelt has snapped on a low mileage vehicle, and examine the consequences of that happening. Why a main dealer service plan on an out of warranty car Alan? If this were mine, I wouldn’t be entrusting this job to a main dealer, if you wisely decide to get it replaced. Always renew the auxiliary belt at the same time. Regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Tim, but it seems we have all wasted our time in responding to the OP who hasn’t returned to the forum since the day he joined and posted. Good isn’t it? Let’s hope the advice given may help others. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Carl, You could try the old fashioned way of squirting some WD40 or similar into the point where the mirrors rotate. Leave overnight, so that the mirrors should be in the parked and folded condition, then attempt to manually fold the mirrors. Unlock the car and see if they return to the driving position. That may well save you the cost of diagnostics. If it works, then refer to Cliff for a more suitable lubricant. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Martin and thanks for joining. Engine reconditioning is now a thing of the past, and without a doubt, an Audi dealer wouldn’t undertake that, even if you pay them thousands of £. Fitting a new engine (if available -in caps) perhaps, but that would seriously damage your wallet. Some engine reconditioners remain, but their trade would generally come from the classic car enthusiasts, or possibly extreme tuning. In effect, I think you can realistically forget the idea. Your oil usage equates to approx. one 5 litre container of oil a year - < £50, even for good stuff. The only caveat would be if it is seriously affecting emissions. Regards, Gareth.

Wishbone ,chassis leg, distortion? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Mike and thanks for joining. Have a look at LLL Parts website, and that is likely to come up with the part no. for you. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dermot, I can now understand why you didn’t post a photo of what you want - because you don’t have an example to show! Guess? - are these similar to the ‘adjustable buffer’ rubbers which are frequently seen on the front underside of the bonnet? Have you had a look on EBay to see if there is anything similar to what you are expecting? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Dermot, Could you please post a photo or sketch of exactly what rubbers you need please. Regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Despite returning to the forum a few times since the last post was made, you are yet to respond to the questions asked. Do you want some more time to answer? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Jill, When you say you got the part number ‘from this forum’, exactly how and where did you get it? If Audi say it’s wrong, any reason why they can’t supply you with the correct part? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Craig, To save us suggesting sources you may have already searched, where have you looked on-line so far? Regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, The lease mileage estimate simply governs the price of the lease - based on the car’s total mileage at the end of the lease period. It does not mean that the supplying dealer sets the service schedule correctly. Since we now know you have no intention of keeping the car, then ‘who cares how often it gets serviced’? Not your worry. This situation is not untypical, and the car will qualify to be sold on with Full Service History- which throws in doubt the seemingly all important must- have when buying a second hand car - and the importance of having sight of how often it has actually been serviced in its lifetime. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, If it were mine, I would be approaching another main dealer. As I understand it, such low annual usage should be on an annual service schedule, and not a Flexible (c 18month) service. Did they ask you on collection when new, what your anticipated annual mileage would be? If not, thereby hangs the answer. Low mileage cars usually take a comparative hammering via. not continually operating at optimum temperature , numerous stop, starts etc. What are your long term plans for the car John? Return it at the end of the lease or perhaps purchase it? Regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Sharrie hasn’t returned to the forum for some 11 months, so it would be advisable to send her a PM. This is the frequent issue we have whereby posters simply do not take a little time to update the forum on the outcome of their issues, and the threads remain open ended and of little use to future posters with a similar problem. Perhaps you would update us on her response John. Regards, Gareth.