Magnet

Hello Carl, You could try the old fashioned way of squirting some WD40 or similar into the point where the mirrors rotate. Leave overnight, so that the mirrors should be in the parked and folded condition, then attempt to manually fold the mirrors. Unlock the car and see if they return to the driving position. That may well save you the cost of diagnostics. If it works, then refer to Cliff for a more suitable lubricant. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Martin and thanks for joining. Engine reconditioning is now a thing of the past, and without a doubt, an Audi dealer wouldn’t undertake that, even if you pay them thousands of £. Fitting a new engine (if available -in caps) perhaps, but that would seriously damage your wallet. Some engine reconditioners remain, but their trade would generally come from the classic car enthusiasts, or possibly extreme tuning. In effect, I think you can realistically forget the idea. Your oil usage equates to approx. one 5 litre container of oil a year - < £50, even for good stuff. The only caveat would be if it is seriously affecting emissions. Regards, Gareth.

Wishbone ,chassis leg, distortion? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Mike and thanks for joining. Have a look at LLL Parts website, and that is likely to come up with the part no. for you. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dermot, I can now understand why you didn’t post a photo of what you want - because you don’t have an example to show! Guess? - are these similar to the ‘adjustable buffer’ rubbers which are frequently seen on the front underside of the bonnet? Have you had a look on EBay to see if there is anything similar to what you are expecting? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Dermot, Could you please post a photo or sketch of exactly what rubbers you need please. Regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Despite returning to the forum a few times since the last post was made, you are yet to respond to the questions asked. Do you want some more time to answer? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Jill, When you say you got the part number ‘from this forum’, exactly how and where did you get it? If Audi say it’s wrong, any reason why they can’t supply you with the correct part? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Craig, To save us suggesting sources you may have already searched, where have you looked on-line so far? Regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, The lease mileage estimate simply governs the price of the lease - based on the car’s total mileage at the end of the lease period. It does not mean that the supplying dealer sets the service schedule correctly. Since we now know you have no intention of keeping the car, then ‘who cares how often it gets serviced’? Not your worry. This situation is not untypical, and the car will qualify to be sold on with Full Service History- which throws in doubt the seemingly all important must- have when buying a second hand car - and the importance of having sight of how often it has actually been serviced in its lifetime. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks John, If it were mine, I would be approaching another main dealer. As I understand it, such low annual usage should be on an annual service schedule, and not a Flexible (c 18month) service. Did they ask you on collection when new, what your anticipated annual mileage would be? If not, thereby hangs the answer. Low mileage cars usually take a comparative hammering via. not continually operating at optimum temperature , numerous stop, starts etc. What are your long term plans for the car John? Return it at the end of the lease or perhaps purchase it? Regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Sharrie hasn’t returned to the forum for some 11 months, so it would be advisable to send her a PM. This is the frequent issue we have whereby posters simply do not take a little time to update the forum on the outcome of their issues, and the threads remain open ended and of little use to future posters with a similar problem. Perhaps you would update us on her response John. Regards, Gareth.

Exactly as your last sentence John, combined with the comments already mentioned earlier in this post. Did you buy the car and opt for a maintenance/ service package? Regards, Gareth.

Hello again John, Before moving on, what is your skill set in terms of motor mechanics? Do you have a substantial good quality socket set and long extension bars etc., an impact wrench, torque wrench , substantial Jack - etc.etc. since the engine will need to be jacked to remove its mounting? I would class this as an A level experienced mechanic job, so if you are not well versed and/or don’t have all the necessary tools, then I would suggest you just don’t attempt it. If you do, you may well end up with an unusable car. You should find You Tube videos on this and/or similar VAG engines. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks for coming back on this Hector. Taking you points, I think it’s fair to agree that the battery doesn’t need to be coded. Varta would have been the OE. battery, and should rule out that being the offender, although I have had a couple of issues of them failing in recent years, and now favour Exide. Does the car have an alarm and possibly an immobiliser? If so, you would need to measure the drain on the battery after a couple of minutes -when the car has fully shut down.

Thanks Richard, but I’d be very surprised if a replaced battery on a 2002 car needs to be coded - but I could be wrong I guess. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Hassan and thanks for joining. Your last paragraph sums up the general recommendation on here - don’t do it. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Hector, A 40 mA draw after the system has ‘gone to sleep’ is not a problem. Obviously, a situation where a battery runs flat in 5 days certainly confirm a problem. Before moving on, could you let us know what make of battery you have just fitted? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Hector, I would be surprised if the battery needs to be coded on your car. Parasitic drain ? What are you terming ‘within tolerance’ ? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Tim, Sorry to hear of your issue. The problem sounds typical of a failed clutch slave cylinder assembly, but would obviously have to be examined to confirm/refute. Re. 30 days return:- I believe ( but not certain) that you are obliged to allow them the opportunity to repair the car at their cost, rather than simply rejecting it. I think your best route is via. E-mailing the seller to alert them of the issue, and visit your nearest CAB and take advice there. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Yes, Mark - as I suggested. Ensure non-silicone.

Exactly what Richard suggested, but bear in mind if it is simply a blown fuse, then fuses only blow for an important reason - to protect the circuit from shorts and overloads. If you are ‘very good … checking’, then I would suggest keeping you hands in your pockets, for two reasons - you could make things worse, and you could invalidate whatever warranty you have fiddled with it! Being on the pessimistic side of realistic, it’s quite possible the get-out clauses of your warranty will render this not covered. If it were mine, I would be entrusting this to a trusted local garage to sort for you, and hope it turns out to be the least costly of Richard’s options. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Mark, Too little information to be precise, but we take it you mean from the fixing points -? Have you tried a non-silicone sealer on the outside of the fixing points, before refitting the light? Regards, Gareth.

Kwik Fit. Good luck with that David!

Hello Graham, Do you intend to have your January service done at Halfords, as the previous owner did? Obviously your call, but if your local branch are as ours, then you will get ECP’s best as parts! Wouldn’t be for me but… Regards, Gareth.