Magnet

Hello Hamad, Are you going to buy new or secondhand? If new, I think the answer is fairly simple, and the servicing should be carried out according to the recommended schedule. At 70k/ annum, you will of course cover just over 200k miles within the warrantee period of 3 years, and with mostly motorway mileage, this mileage should not present any issues if properly serviced, and respected. Just as a comparison, there are VAG Skoda Octavia taxis doing this annual mileage on mainly local trips. Not easy on a car! If you want to know the best value for money, least problematic cars to buy, then just talk to your taxi drivers. Our local chaps are now moving to Hyundai after being with Skoda for years. If you are buying secondhand, then the question is very much open ended, and depends on the mileage and service history and how it's been driven before you own it. Different story there! Kind regards, Gareth.

You are very welcome Danny. I should also have suggested visiting local motor factors, since again they may well have some old stock parts sitting on the shelves. I have found that they are now getting wise to the desirability of some of these parts (rather than dumping them as they often did) and quite often will even have someone dedicated to listing these on EBay etc. It probably goes without saying Danny, that this car will qualify for classic car insurance which will have the benefit of agreed value cover in the event of a total loss, and is not dependent on having a "spare" NCB to reduce the premium. Mileages are usually limited, but probably OK for normal enthusiast's use. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Danny, Looks like a nice little project. I think you will be surprised at what parts (well service items anyway) will be available for this. My advice would be to buy quality brand parts for filters, belts etc. and I think you should get what you want via. EBay search even. I wouldn't ignore making contact with you local (long established) Audi dealer since it may surprise what they may have on the shelf as left overs. Parts are now ordered in to satisfy demand, but when this car was new it as not uncommon to hold stock of parts pending enquiries. Might be worth trying them for an exhaust, and your local tyre/exhaust dealers who tend to have racks of left over exhausts. Making (welding etc.) exhausts up from such old stock is another cost cutting possibility. I'm sure you will get there if you search on the computer for a few hours. German suppliers seem to be popular for older exhausts at the moment. Good luck with it, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mick, Glad you had it fixed. "All Audis use coolant!" - worth finding another garage! Just a couple of points to ensure everything stays as it should be:- I would advise keeping a regular eye on the coolant level over the next couple of weeks while inevitable air locks are expelled. Don't be surprised if you have to top up a little over this time, but not after. If it were mine, I would get the auxiliary belt (driving alternator etc.) changed. It's done it's time and when they do decide to go can sometimes get themselves cobbled up with the crankshaft pully - with potential catastrophic results. Final point Mick- what make water pump did they use? Personally, I don't favour aftermarket ( motor factor supplied) pumps which are known to be highly variable quality wise. Generally main dealer part only for this critical application. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Karen, Sorry to hear you have water ingress problems with your brand new car. To me, the situation is not at all complex, and you don't have to worry about the reason why, and simply have to return it to the supplying dealer and request they correct the defect under warranty. Any new car which leaks water is surely unfit for purpose, and if they cannot effect a permanent cure then you are within your rights to reject the car. Although not mechanical, this would be an unacceptable problem to me since the boot will stay damp, will smell and lead to deterioration of the structure of the car - just not on with a brand new car. Ignore comments about the weather being exceptional bad! No excuse. It might be worth doing a bit of research on this and I think you will find that this is not an unknown/uncommon problem with these cars, and Audi should know how to fix it by now. Some degree of continued pressure may be necessary to ensure it is fixed properly. Goid luck with it. Gareth.

Hello Wilson, I can understand your disappointment, but you really have to forget about comparing the economy with that of your previous BMW car. There isn't any scope there for a like for like comparison. I don't think you can realistically compare your on-road mpg with that which the manufacturers claim during bench testing etc. I think it's common knowledge that such figures are seldom achieved. Where I think you can reasonably compare, is what you managed to achieve in the same model driven in the same manner and conditions over the same journey, and by what you say, your current car is not as economical, and that is real. If it were mine, I would go back to basics and check the tyre pressures are as recommended ( you may or maynot be surprised how many people just don't check tyre pressures on a regular basis). Refill with non supermarket fuel ( to be sure) and reassess your mpg over the same journey conditions. If still the same and you have proof that the other same-model car was much more economical then I would be returning it for checks. Good luck. Gareth.

Hello Calvin, and a welcome from the homeland. Warning light issues:- Faulty signal bulbs? Does this refer to the indicators? If so, you may find that although the indicators are working there might just be two bulbs per side in say the rear lights, and one of them has blown. Having said that, you should find that if that is the case then they will flash at different rates side to side. I would suggest checking these in the dark and assessing if one side is not as bright as the other. Low coolant light? Back to basics- you say you have some coolant in the reservoir, but how much? Check when cold and top up with the correct coolant mix to just below the max. line. Low coolant light still on? You should find there is a low coolant level sensor built into the reservoir. This sensor has a plug going into it and it is worth a try unplugging this and giving it a squirt of contact cleaner and refitting. If the light is still showing then I would guess the sensor is at fault and should be replaced. I don't think these warning lights are anything to do with a need to reset them, but are giving you a warning that there is a fault of some kind. Good luck in getting it sorted, and it would be interesting to know what solves it. Kind regards, Gareth.c

Hello Graham, Not sure how much of this is going to be helpful since you seem to have covered most of what would be seemed logical to cover, so it may be time to further question the way in which you have done things. Apologies if this appears pedantic but this is what I would do I terms if rechecks:- With coolant at cold, turn the heater control to max. hot and drain the system (collecting the coolant if you can). Remove the thermostat and place in very hot water on the stove, and continue to heat the water until the thermostat is open. Carefully remove the thermostat from the water with a long nose pliers and insert a length of cotton between the body and the open valve (be quick!) The valve will now close and jam the cotton, and you can suspend the thermostat by the cotton thread. Armed with an accurate thermometer, gradually reheat the water - with stirring- and note the temperature at which the thermostat falls from its suspended cotton. This should be 88c or very near to this. Simply placing it in boiling water and making sure it opens and then adding cold water to make sure it closes is not accurate enough, You need to actually measure the temperature at which it opens, and assure youself it is 88. When the system is refilled, as you know, you will need to squeeze the hoses to eliminate as much air as possible and then bleed the remaining air via the bleed screws. I don't replace the reservoir cap at this stage, but start the engine and allow the coolant to rise until the thermostat opens and the top hose gets warm, at which stage I replace the cap and allow the engine to run until the fan cuts in - keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. Obviously making sure fingers and fan are kept well apart, I continue to squeeze the hoses, particularly the heater hoses which should now both be at the same hot temperature. Leave the car to thoroughly cool without slackening the cap. Top up when cold and road test the car with the heater still at hot. If the thermostat passes the correct opening temperature test and the coolant temperature still fluctuates then it's head scratching time again! Water pump faulty? Not had one do that yet and obviously agree with Trevor. Probably a lot of rambling and maybe not a lot of help, but... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Vicky, Sorry to hear of your problems. If it were mine, I would get this car transported ( and I must emphasis transported - AA should onwardly transport you ) to a trusted Audi independent and get their opinion. This could be as simple as a faulty oil pressure sender, but you are wise to be concerned that it isn't driven until it is correctly diagnosed. Re. The hard brakes - sounds as if this is a lack of servo assistance and make be associated with some inbuilt engine limiting mode connected with a low oil pressure indication. Good luck with getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, One consideration not mentioned is that of ride comfort vs. handling. It sounds as if your car was built/bought for road handling rather than the ride comfort. Run flat tyres are inherently firmer since they have reinforced side walls capable of withstanding loads under deflated conditions. I would recommend non run- flat tyres for 'normal ' cars, but for yours , you might wish to consider the possible effect of handling if you do move away from fun flats. Not sure if this helps, but at least it might introduce more debate before you decide. Kind regards, Gareth

Hello Alan, Sorry, but I cannot really help you with the later 2013 A3, but with the earlier one, it is certainly above the passenger footwell (below the glove box) but it does hide itself very well! Might be worth having another look, since the black plastic cover (on the earlier model) simple sides in/out and is easily missed. Not sure if this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Haven't tried the magnet idea yet Owain, but will let you know when I do. Strange that the made-in-China replacement ones are available for all but the A3. To be fair, it's the only bit of this A3 which has actually broken in 138K miles, but our daughter has confessed it might be something to do with her clicking the catch as she drove along! What's a good Welsh named Owain doing in foreign parts in Oxford then? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jonathan, Sounds good and progressive, and fingers crossed its all going to work out well. I cannot stress enough that the quality of the components used is of paramount importance, and sometimes leaving it to the mechanic may result in having parts which the local motor factors have in stock, which may or may not be what you want. Would I leave it to the mechanic to chose a brand of water pump or cambelt? No I most certainly would not - I would insist he uses a main dealer one since the % on cost on the whole job will be marginal. For me, if not a main dealer belt, it would have to be a Gates one. The effect of fitting a substandard water pump in particular however, could be catastrophic. Not wanting to labour the point, but it's a bit like leaving someone to buy you a pair of trainers. You may well end up with a cheaper pair which just don't stand up to the wear you would expect. Hope this doesn't come over as being too dictstorial, but.... Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jonathan, No problem at all, it's just that I'm old enough to confuse myself! Re. a cylinder head off EBay, may I say without being pessimistic, that you could be buying your own - if you see what I mean. If it were me , I think I would try to get one which comes with pressure test having been done and ideally the mating surface skimmed to flatness. If you don't, you would be wise to factor in the cost of having these done, and I certainly would not recommend fitting a head without having it skimmed. You will probably realise that the lion's share of the cost (apart from the cylinder head itself) will be the labour cost, so I would ensure your mechanic uses good quality pasts, particularly the very critical timing belt and its associated parts. For me, I would only use Gates belts if you are not going to use genuine VAG parts. Another so important aspect is that if the water pump is being changed, I would recommend you don't, just don't , (in capitals!) use any aftermarket make pump otherwise you are leaving yourself more vulnerable to some catastrophic failure due to poor quality replacement parts. Worth spending once and wisely. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jonathan, Really exactly as Trevor says. A crack in a piston would not result in any coolant loss unless there was any other coolant associated issue with this engine. I think you may be well advised to get a qualified second opinion on this and have it explained exactly what is wrong here. Sending a piston off and getting it pressure tested!? Well that's certainly a new one on me! Cylinder head and pressure testing and finding cracks however, would make very good sense, and if this was at fault then a good replacement cylinder head should sort out the problem - assuming reference to a piston is incorrect. In summary, I would most definitely seek a second opinion before doing anything. Good luck with sorting it out and understanding exactly what the issue is. Kind regards, Gareth.

I couldn't agree more with what has already been said, but even if the car is used for short journeys, a serviceable battery should well accommodate that. The way to look at it is :- would Audi have sold these cars as new, if on infrequent use/ short journeys, they were not going to start? Basics and elimination it is:- simply get (the overnight charged) battery checked, by a reliable garage - preferably one not making volume sales on batteries. Avoid the large outlet type stores. If it proves to be unserviceable then replace it, but I would follow Trevor's advice on this and soend once and wisely. I would not buy any battery with less than a 3 year warranty and ideally (and generally no more expensive if you shop around) a 4 or 5 year warranty one. Premium brands such as Varta or Bosch would be my choice since I know, by shopping around, that I can get these for very little on cost. I have used Battery Warehouse ( I think that's the name) at Tewkesbury. Goid prices, mail order and service .No connection, and no doubt others have equally good recommendations. If the battery is serviceable then as has been said, you have a parasitic drain on the battery, and would need an appropriate meter connected in line with the battery while each fuse is removed until you find the offending curcuit. Probably best left to a half an hour's time with an auto electrician. Goid luck with it, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brian, As Trevor says, these CD changers can be removed and the cover taken off and with minor surgery, the stuck CD can be retrieved. This should always be undertaken on the basis of nothing to lose if you fail! Always worth trying the eject button on the changer before disconnecting. My exoerience with these, through non-Audi makes anyway, is that few do not give problems at some time or other, and the problem is generally that of stuck CD. Not absolutely sure on this but I do believe the problem is compounded if use use copied CD's rather than originals. Again, these CD changers can be subjected to infrequent use which doesn't help. This will be coupled with the fact that they are very often located in damp boots or under dusty seats! I have found they are generally available secondhand at reasonable prices (if you fail to sort yours), or I think the popular alternative is to substitute this now outdated system by linking in an IPod. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards Gareth.

Hello Chris, As, you say, owners very often have a preference for a particular (premium) brand even though the specifications will be the same, and that is fine. I terms of actual grades, I always favour first consulting the owners handbook, then checking with the main dealers what grade and brand they currently use, but again personal preference and perhaps experience of others, may suggest deviation from this. In relation to the cambelt:- if the service book or checks at the servicing garages do not confirm an earlier cambelt change then this almost 10 year old car is well overdue for this work to be done - simply on an age basis. Of course, low mileage is fine, but does constitutes use where journeys have generally been short and infrequent, with more stop/starts than is normal. Such use can place belts under greater stresses than when it's running on song for extended periods, and again the rubber ages and becomes less supple and able to accommodate the more frequent start ups. Probably labouring the point, but we have the winter months coming upon us with low temperatures aggravating the situation. If I were mine Chris, I'd be getting this done as a matter of urgency (if it hasn't been changed of course). Water pump as well? I would probably get it inspected and if considered serviceable then perhaps leave well alone. Otherwise I would only use a main dealer pump - never aftermarket for this critical application. Enjoy the car. Kind regards, Gareth. .

Hello Paul, I'm not going to be much use to you, but you do appear to be asking whether wider profile tyres ( via. wider wheels) will fit your car. Trevor has already mentioned the stud distance consideration, but you are also likely to have a width consideration which needs looking into in terms of inner arch clearance on full lock etc. One other thing I would mention Paul is the recommendation to notify your insurers if you do fit non original wheels ( if not specified as an optional size for your model). Failure to do so might - just might- run the risk of invalidating your insurance in the event of a claim. Apologies that this sounds rather off putting, but often wise to check before going ahead. Goid luck anyway, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris and Trevor, My good lady has recently acquired our daughter's 2006 owned from new, now 138k. A3 Sportback 1.6. This car has always run on Longlife Quantum 5w/30 as recommended by the VAG dealer where we get all the service items from. Now that it will only be doing modest mileages with us, I've decided to service it annually and this time used Mobil 3000 5/30 fully synthetic ( to Ford spec.) which I get at Wilkinsons at £24 for 5 litres. Apologies for contradicting, but I would not use a 0w/30 in these cars, and I'm sure you will find that this is not the grade recommended by Audi for this car. Worth checking your handbook? This car has always run on Audi filters which we get on discount from Skoda Parts shop ( up north somewhere but the exact location evades at the moment). No connection with this business, but we have found their parts service is first class. Re timing belts and water pump. This car has been on its second Audi cambelt kit since 110K. OK changed early, but not worth taking a chance. Again these kits can be obtained on discount, but if I was going to use aftermarket then I would only use Gates. Water pumps:- I would never use an aftermarket pump since there are too many stories of failure, often after short mileage. When thie belt kit was changed at 110K, the original pump was policy changed at the same time, using a main dealer part, which if I recall was a reconditioned exchange unit. Not sure if any of this helps. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martynas, Always difficult to advise on electrical problems at a distance. As Trevor says, earth issues can be a problem, but you now seem to have discounted that as the reason. These lights are usually pretty basic in their electrical connection and although it's great to be able to fix these issues yourself, very often a half an hour time with an auto electrician is money worth spent, unless you have a good meter and know your way around with it. One possible cause can be broken/partially broken wires in the wiring harness which sometimes connects from the body/ roof area into the boot lid - generally in a fluted rubber covering. You will find this section of harness flexes every time the boot is raised and gets brittle over time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Luke, I asked a similar question at the end of September. As far as I can see now, you will/may need to drill the roof (and headlining?) to fit them. Of course, I could be wrong, but if so, I've decided to park the idea until some more information comes along. Still be interested to have some information from someone who has retro fitted them though. Good luck,and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martynas, Obviously your call, and a great maintenance move, but I think I would still check if the noise is present when the auxiliary belt is removed, since this will remove any potential disappointment when you change the belt assembly. As I said, aftermarket belt kits and particularly water pumps can vary in quality and I always favour main dealer parts fo this application critical component. I have used Skoda Parts Shop ( up north somewhere) - no connection - for discount parts and found the difference between prices and aftermarket are just marginal. I have mentioned my preference if moving to aftermarket, and did mention that personally I would not go with the aftermarket water pumps, on the basis that Contitech, as with Gates, do not make pumps, but buy in to use with their kits. Appreciate everyone's preference differ, but this is one job where quality not price, is king. Anyway, good luck with it Martynas. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martynas, I would very much agree with Trevor's advice about checking the belt and it's assembly. Just one further point I would add, the previous owner may well have had the water pump changed at the same time as the belt and tensioner. Unfortunately aftermarket water pumps ( if fitted at the time) can be of highly variable quality and service life, and if it has survived for 20k then you are doing well! Appreciating the expense, but it may be well worth doing this again and investing in a VAG belt and tensioner and water pump (not aftermarket pump). In fact, I pretty sure Audi do rebuilt pumps on an exchange basis - or they were. If you have to go for aftermarket belts etc. then the only one I would go for would be Gates. Apreciating Gates do a kit inc. water pump, but for me it would have to be a VAG pump to go with their belt kit. Of course, having said all that, it may well not be the timing belt/water pump assembly. Might be worth removing the auxiliary belt first and seeing if the noise disappears. If so, the noise will be associated with whatever it drives- alternator, P.S pump etc. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Trevor. I'm absolutely useless at this clicking on a link thing! - but I just searched EBay under Audi centre arm rest latch and a stack of listings came up, but none for the A3 it seems. It appears VAG just do the main arm rest cover as a complete item, and want over £70 for their kindness. I have now seen something on You Tube where owners have used small magnets as an alternative to the clip. May try that if nothing else turns up. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.