Magnet

Any answers or comments for us Peter?

Any further forward Dan?

Hello John, I believe the rear camber is adjusted by the ‘off centre’ outboard wishbone bolt, which rotates on its off-centre axis, to adjust the alignment. The adjustment is of course very fine. If I’m understanding it correctly, you feel the offender is the original wishbone ( and of course bolt), whereas you feel the newly replaced wishbone ( and bolt?) is satisfactory. Odd! Obviously, more critical than the bolt and its correct rotational position, is the bush in the lower section of the hub carrier. Was this renewed when the wishbone and spring were replaced? Have you checked the near side bush? Any amount of DIYing adjustment will be fruitless, so just forget it. Way forward as I see it:- Check outer ( and inner in fact) bushes for wear. Buy and fit new adjusting bolts - usually listed on EBay as genuine VAG. Get the car realigned on professional equipment. In case it help:- I use my local ATS folks, since they seem to know what they are doing, and more importantly, you can talk to them. Yours? Beware of claims of super systems. I find that the equipment is indeed sophisticated, but the operator’s knowledge of how to use it, may not be so sophisticated! Could you come back to us with the answers to the questions John, Kind regards, Gareth,

So cheapest option to start, will be getting the new (how long has it been on there?) battery coded. Can we take it you fitted a good quality battery, rather than one bought on price? Kind regards, Gareth. Our 2006 doesn’t need coding, but…

2007 might be a little early to need new battery being coded to the car, but worth a check. Think Clifford on here has mentioned issue with dashboard cluster in the past. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Zahir, Apologies re KF - misread you use them for servicing. Can now see you use independent dealers. Are we talking independent VW/ Audi specialists? Searching:- I would suggest you use Google, then when you have narrowed it down then start asking around for opinion. Kind regards, Gareth.

Possibility Harv - but just only that:- Finance taken out in June? Possibly last owner. Car now back in stock due to rejection. Car owes the dealer beyond its tradable value, so trying to retail it again ?? Just between-the-lines guess work though.

Sounds good Zahir. If it were mine, I would do the same, but it’s not my position on here to make decisions for members - only to provide alternatives for them to consider. In case it helps :- For external water pumps, thermostat housings etc. I’ve used aftermarket parts by Febi to good avail, rather than main dealer parts. Independents may want to use main dealer parts, so worth checking what you are getting for your quote. If using aftermarket parts I tend to favour on- line mail order motor factors Parts in Motions down at Exeter. ( no connection). Kwik Fit for servicing ? Um!? Not for me, I like top branded filters etc. not ones from possibly ‘own-brand’ parts suppliers. We are all different, but whatever, it’s always worth fostering good relations with whoever you use, be it an independent or a local garage. Last resort for me is having to deal with front-of-house service receptionists rather than those who are actually much closer to the tools. Just let us know if we can help further. Kind regards, Gareth.

Some good experience there Harv, and many thanks Frank for sharing it for the benefit of others. Sounds a good motoring career Frank. I hope we are at a turning point with the forum, and shared experiences will become more of a norm. I guess we’ve all had disappointments when realising vehicles may not be all they look to be, but I think it usually works out in the end. Yes please Harv - keep in touch. I have an affinity for Shropshire - my great grandfather’s family hailed from Wem. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Frank, don’t boast (only joking) about being a youngster!

Thanks for coming back Zahir, All of this can only be guesstimates, but it’s quite possible that the parts bill might be halved by buying quality aftermarket parts. Further, I would be surprised if your London Audi dealer’s labour rates are less than £140 + VAT/ hr..Again, this might be halved at a local garage, so you can do the maths, and adjusting by the £140 (+ VAT?) for inspection, plus the transport costs ( if currently disabled) to get it to another small garage. I have to say this as I think ( in caps) it might be:-you must be knowledgeable of the added cost of engaging main dealers in looking after this 13 year old car, so larger than average bills must be the norm to you. If so, it might be a case of ‘carry on then’ with this job, rather than perhaps shopping around in the future to get better value for money. Perhaps you could let us know what you think. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for letting us know Harv. Homework is king, and if you treat any claim for any good points as being fictitious until the evidence is shown, then it should minimise your risks. First port of call for me is always MOT history, followed by DVLA vehicle check to see when the last V5 was issued. Good clue to how long the last owner has had it, but can be misleading if the new V5 was issued due to cherished number sorting. Ask the seller to e-mail you a copy of the service history, then contact the servicing dealer/s and confirm/ get additional info there. Enquiries via. VIN might be necessary if it’s been on cherished numbers. Ask the seller to let you have remaining tread levels on all 4 wheels, and tyre brands would be good to know. All of this homework, and more, can now be carried out from the comfort of your arm chair, before viewing. Viewing without having first done this homework can be dangerous, due to falling in love with it - and what does love do to your eyesight? Last thing:- If I was buying in that price range then I would invest in an independent inspection before agreeing to buy. It’s a small amount of extra funds to pay for reassurance. Check out local independents around the area the vehicle is for sale in. Perhaps you could keep in touch as things develop Harv, and please come back to us anyway if you think we can help. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Zahir, As Cliff says really. Can we take you the original mechanic didn’t want to do the job because it was too complex to get at?? If so, I’m surprised you took this 13 year old car to a main dealer - probably the last place to go to show respect to your wallet. Still, regrettably, you are stuck with it there now, and I guess you will just have to await the verdict. Alternatively, you instruct them to hold fire - pay their labour costs so far, and pay to get it transported to another garage of your choice. Sorry, I can’t see any other alternatives - as harsh as that might be. If it were me, I would be requesting the main dealer to keep you updated on cause and cure, before agreeing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Luke, Good old EBay?, Aliexpress? PM to Sean? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, Such issues are normally as a result of a sticky solenoid in the flap release. Worth doing a forum search, since this been raised in the past. Meanwhile give it a good squirt of WD40 , while you search. Quickest way to get it open ( before fitting a new solenoid) is to leave your fuel level drop to under a quarter, and call out your breakdown provider. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well I’m passing my thanks on to Dave, but it does give us a lift when efforts on here are known to be appreciated. Our thanks to you both. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Gavin, and thanks for joining. Having now done what would be considered comprehensive, you now need to get the actual oil pressure physically measured by a garage who has the equipment to do so. This test should be carried out straight after a run of at least 10 miles. Beware that if you leave your car at a garage they are likely to test it just when they can! - and unlikely will have taken it on a run beforehand, so the pressure will be higher than the running actual. Having changed what you have, it might not have solved the wear which could have taken place during earlier low oil pressure, so bearings maybe worn. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Harv, Offering comments and advice is always difficult, since generally, the requester just wants reassurance that what they intend to do is correct. Hopefully the forum outlines what it sees as being worthy of further investigation and clarification. Of course, such questioning paints a pessimistic picture, but in reality draws attention to certain potential downsides, for the buyer to consider. The buyer then adds the positives which they see, which of course we don’t. Re. deposits ( if you decide to pull out) - yes generally non refundable, but note the wording of the advert - and even comments made during inspection. If any of these prove to be (even partially) incorrect, then I would argue that the vehicle isn’t as described. Say in this case:- ‘Full service history’ , which by normal standards, it doesn’t have. Good luck with whatever you decide Harv. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, Would be worth looking at LLL Parts website. They may have an exploded view of the seat arrangements.

Hello Peter, Are you sure what you are seeing are indeed cracks in the lacquer, as opposed to stains? From what you tell us, it wouldn’t surprise me if they are lacquer cracks though. ‘I usually have my car cleaned…’ That statement maybe all the explanatory evidence that is needed. Do you mean at a local car wash facility where they have jet washers and spray-on chemicals. If so, they will be spraying your wheels with acid, prior to blasting water at high pressure onto your lacquer. Outcome ? what you are experiencing. If this is the cleaning regime you normally follow, the next issue you will have is that the lacquer on the vehicle starts to get milky patches. All of this is akin to sticking you in the shower, spraying you with acid, then turning the shower pressure to maximum. Yes, you will come out clean - but good for you? Do not try this at home! (In caps). Apologies if all the above is wrong Peter. Perhaps you would be kind enough to let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Very little is still the way it was Ian. The OP joined and posted on the same day, and has not been heard of since! Yet another example of Post and Run.

Hello Harv, Many thanks for thanking the forum for the comments made. It doesn’t always happen. Anyway, back to the matter in hand:- Let’s say it’s less common for a main dealer to retail a 6 year old car, but it is what it is. Have you checked the dealer price against say, Parker’s Guide values to ensure the price isn’t inflated. It might be well worth comparing with some of the other 230 Frank mentions. Number of owners:- Most have been owned by the Service Manager or someone very close to them! Buyers have to like salt - if you see what I mean! The fact from the service print-out:- Change of owner on 29/7/19 , and most worrying (in caps) on 26 June of this year. They will probably inform you that the MPC on that date was carried out prior to putting on the forecourt where you have seen it, but how do you know that it isn’t a vehicle which has been rejected under the 30 day return policy. Be assured, that you will be assured that that isn’t the story! Service history:- Some artistic licence there - oil service (minor service) at 17K; no service again in the next 23k - and again only a minor oil service then; next at 50k, then recent. - all marked as oil services. My take would be, that it has a partial history of oil changes. Disappearing reference to discs/pads and bushes? Possibly a try-on with the previous owner, but inspection of the front brake discs should reveal whether they have been renewed in the recent past. Brakes heating up, to the extent of hearing contraction of metal noises, points to issues - as mentioned - unless your test driving included a tendency on your part to leave braking until the last moment before standing on them. Last bit to consider:- 4 wheel drive tyres should have near matching tread on both axles, so new on front and not much tread on back isn’t good news. Make of tyres they have fitted to the front? Well Harv, that is a bit of warts and all assessment, but should allow you to stand back, do your homework, believe or disbelieve the answers given, and simply give it a good couple of coats of thinking about. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Luke, To save us repeating, where have you searched so far?

Welcome Harv, and thanks for joining. Can we take it this 6 year old vehicle isn’t being sold by an Audi main dealer? If it is, this would be slightly unusual due to age. Apologies for the questions. Was the latest MOT ( how recent?) done at the same MOT station as last year, where the advisories were listed? Have you actually seen evidence of the computerised ‘full service history”? It is surprising how this can be claimed to exist, but disappears into the ether when sight of it is asked for. How many main dealer services has it had, and at what mileages? Does that record point to new discs and pads being fitted after last year’s MOT, along with the bushes? How many owners has it had, and how long has the last owner owned it? Short term ownership triggers suspicion. Lastly, is the tyre brand the same on all four wheels? But more importantly, is the remaining tyre thread fairly well matched on all four wheels? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Clicking sounds from wheel area :- are you sure it is from the wheels and not associated with exhaust pipes - which would not be unusual? Such cooling-down noises from brakes would however be unusual, and might point to sticky calipers or similar.

Thanks Jim, Audi/VW specialists:- one would assume that they would only use dealer parts, but an assumption it has to be. At the opposite end of the scale, they could use ‘cheapest deal from their favourite motor factor’. Some main dealers used to have ‘discounted offers’ on such things a cambelt changes on older vehicles. Now?? In some cases it was cheaper to get it done at the main dealer, than at an independent. Beware, the dealer may well now tell you it doesn’t need changing until c125K miles ( without any time limit). Please let us know if we can advise you further, once you have done the basic homework. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think you are absolutely right on safer option Cliff. Sad to say, as far as water pumps are concerned, I pay the penalty of high dealer prices for peace of mind. If only we knew who were the OEM manufacturers! -? Kind regards, Gareth.