Magnet

So it appears it’s correctly set on an annual service schedule then. Having invested considerable funds on its purchase, I guess you would be prepared to further ‘invest’ in its maintenance through its warranty period, to best safeguard its future. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome David. Where are you getting them from?

Even if it isn’t Alan, it should be with the mileage you do. Some questions remain unanswered Alan. Could you have a read of my post again and come back please. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Allan, ‘….why this should be?’ I think the answer might lie in the possibility the car is approaching 1 year old and (correctly for your mileage) your car must be set on an annual service schedule - unless you tell us it wasn’t registered early in the 74 sequence. Low annual mileages can take its strain on vehicles - hence the recommendation that those covering <10K a year, should have a basic annual service. You are not strictly restricted to getting this done at an Audi dealer, but parts used, must be Audi parts, and the servicing carried out at a VAT registered garage - ideally with a system to record this service on VAG’s data base. Otherwise - potential adverse affect on warranty. I think you will find that VAG’s labour rates may be approaching the £200/hr at some locations. Car on PCP? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Moheen, Dean hasn’t been on here for 2 years, so best send him a PM in the hope he is still using the same e-mail address. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Mike, Yes alternator output should be around 14.5 v. Suggest you get it checked and expect a failed diode or similar. If it were mine, I would simply get yours repaired, since new alternators can be of rather poor quality. Low alternator output/ low battery voltage will result in the S/s system shutting down, so there is at least a positive here if this engineering averse system isn’t working! Regards, Gareth.

Hello Kev, You’ve been asking over a number of posts if your current operating temperature is normal. You have been advised that it isn’t, and the likely culprit is the thermostat. You then come back with ‘ … yeh 90 is the norm’ , as if you knew that all along - which by your earlier question, you didn’t! - getting a bit tiresome Kev. As Clifford said, you are making a mountain out of a molehill. My final suggestion to you is change the thermostat yourself, or actively seek local estimates to get it done. I’m getting vibes that you are decidedly indecisive! Good luck with whatever you decide ( if you do eventually decide!) to do. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Paul. Regards, Gareth.

If you check with Smith and Allan, they should be able to help you.

Many thanks indeed Steve - completely missed that logic! Apologies also Glyn for my incorrect opinion. Regards, Gareth.

Sorry Glyn but I cannot see any logical connection between coolant temperature now running at where it should be, and that being a solution to the previously increasing oil level.

Thanks Glyn, that’s good news. What’s the reason for changing the temperature sensor, and was the reason present when you first posted?

Good way to start after the Bank Holiday then. As you probably know, replace shock absorbers in pairs across the same axle, and tighten the rear mountings when the car is back on the ground - not jacked up. If you need advice on where to possibly get the parts at reasonable cost then please come back to us. Regards, Gareth.

You said you had a 4 wheel alignment done. Did that include a check and adjust of the rear wheel camber?

Should be alright with those then Dan. Always difficult to try to help from afar with this sort of thing. Clutching at straws here, and no doubt you have checked:- Bottom suspension pans at rear OK? Very prone to rust and weakening. Quite a lot of links on the back, and all with rubber bushes. Was rear wheel camber checked and adjusted via eccentric bolt? Daft question, but tyre pressures set to book and reputable tyre brands for new tyres? Your symptoms sound like the tail is wagging the dog, as we used to say. Regards, Gareth.

That’s great Lulu, Sorry for more questions, but are the two (V oriented) control arms with track rod end type joints, anchored into the vertical link? And if so - how? Since this bolt is known on You Tube to be troublesome to remove , and there is reference to a ‘Removal tool’, doesn’t it indicate what this tool looks like, where you can get it? If the bolt is tapped/pressed out of the link, is there sufficient room for it come out without it contacting the inner wing? Apologies for not answering the specific question, but…. I take it the ‘weight’ has to be taken out of the vertical link due to the action of the coil spring. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Lulu, It would be useful if you could identify ( by photo would be great) the exact location of this ‘pinch’ bolt, and what issues are you expecting with its removal with the correct tools and a prior application of a good dose of Plusgas? Regards, Gareth.

This is the sort of job any local garage would be able to do for you. Costing?? , but part cost would be available from Audi. Might come as part of a larger housing, but sorry, don’t know on your car. On an 11 year old vehicle I would generally recommend using aftermarket parts, but in the case of thermostats, I would suggest you insist on a main dealer part, due to the not-infrequent issues with aftermarket ones - regrettably, I don’t know who manufactures these for VAG, so cannot suggest an aftermarket supplier. Unless you are buying the part, and getting a local garage to fit it, be wary of what they may fit - there can be a lot of rubbish associated with so called OEM brands, so if you hear this - beware. Regards, Gareth.

I feel that’s now enough prompting prior to warning the poster. If you do read this Tanya, please read ‘New Members - please read before posting’.

What make shock absorbers did you fit Dan? Perhaps rather than wading in and renewing any bushes, it would probably be well worth giving them a couple of coats of inspection before doing anything else. Regards, Gareth.

Insufficient ‘test drive’ distance for any readings to be meaningful. Please repeat towards the end of at least a continuous 5 mile run.

Welcome Chris, This does seem very odd, and I can’t think of a logical explanation. Having said what you have about the driver’s door, it might be well worthwhile checking the wiring within the flexible harness twixt A post and door frame - a common point for fractures. Apologies, but this is only aimed at eliminating this area as the source of the problem. Regards, Gareth.

Dave, Any particular reason to repeat (some 49 mins ago), a post you made 21 hrs ago? I think it’s now high time William is left to make up his own mind - which it seems he has already done. Based on this, I feel we should thank you for your contribution towards this thread, and now lock it.

So how long into your journey were these readings taken? Bit confused by the ‘1 mile journey home’.

Many thanks Dave, but I think it’s now time to agree to disagree on this thread. Regards, Gareth.