Magnet

Welcome Kenny, but please give us some more information for members to go with. Could you please describe the problem you are having? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Frank, Well worth searching EBay. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks Brian, Autodoc has had mention in relation to the supply of incorrect parts. I’ve never been affected by this, because I don’t buy from them, preferring not to pay highish postage charges compared with other suppliers. Regards, Gareth.

Absolutely Martin - it’s your car, and you are free to do with it what you will, and my feeling is that any advice given ( when asked for) which doesn’t concur with your views, will be ignored. I certainly won’t be chasing you again for a thread-closing update, since I feel the tread will remain as ‘unsolved’ anyway.

So we take it the asked for advice which results in:- Getting the alternator output checked. Getting the full battery efficiency checked. - has not been followed, and prejudging, is unlikely to.

With apologies to Cliff for following on from his question:- I believe you can discount any association with the bonnet contact. If the wipers work, then this is serviceable. If it were mine, I would first be checking you are getting a good 12 v supply to the pump and an adequate earth. If you are, suspect the aftermarket pump, but I haven’t had any frequent issues with these. If you aren’t getting 12 v to the pump, you will need to check wiring back to the stalk - which could also be the culprit. Please let us know how you get on Martin. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Afterthought :- you are talking windscreen washers here, rather than headlight washers- ?

Hello Martin, We can see you have returned to the forum since yesterday’s post requesting an update. Any good reason why you are not responding?

We have sheep breaking the 20mph limit. Would an App cater for that!?

Welcome Ron and thanks for joining. ’Tyre pressures have been checked multiple times and reset…. ‘ So are you saying that the tyre pressures need resetting -in response to the TPMS warning - so they are actually lower? than the required pressure? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Tom. Please do not wait around on here for a response, particularly since your link doesn’t work - well at least for me. This car is seriously trying to tell you something, and if it were mine I would not be using it until it’s assessed by a trusted local garage. Apologies for coming over as being dismissive in this case, but to me, this doesn’t seem to be a candidate for remote diagnosing, but needs to be seen and assessed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Cliff raises an important question here Martin. I can see you have re visited since this question was raised, but we await your reply.

Welcome Russell, To me, I’m finding it very difficult to link the diagnosis to the symptoms! Would suggest you consult another trusted independent. Does the coolant temperature stay constant at around 90 C and get to that temperature within about 3 miles? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, Have you blown out all the lines with an around 30psi air line? Have you check that the washer reservoir is free from slimy sludge at the bottom, and that the pre pump filter gauze is clean? Have you confirmed the pump is receiving a 12 volt supply - or not? Regards, Gareth.

Any response for the forum Martin?

No problem Parm, but if you decide 0w/20 is the way you will go, it won’t just be any 0w/20 - or necessarily a Shell brand because you can get it at a discount - but it must be confirmed to satisfy whatever VAG’s specification is within that grade.

Taking your belief that if oil is thicker it lubricates better -if so, why not go all the way and fill the sump with grease! Deviating from the manufacturer’s recommendations is entering a territory you should not want to be in, but it’s your car and your choice to ignore VAG’s advice and the advice offered on here so far. Good luck with whatever you choose to do, and I remain happy that the advice I’ve offered you is based on sound logic. Having said that, please let us know what you eventually decide Parm. Regards, Gareth.

Wrong thoughts Dave.

Welcome Parm and thanks for joining. So why do you want to move away from 0w/20 if ( in caps) this is the grade specified in your handbook or some other official VAG publication? As well as the grade, there will also be a VAG specification within that grade which the necessary oil must specify - as they say on the tin. Although I use the correct grade of Shell Ultra for other cars, I only use VAG’s branded oil -Quantum- in our 176K A3. In case it helps, I use their Longlife 3 ,but treat it to an annual oil change irrespective of the much lower mileage covered annually. I usually buy from reputable sellers on EBay. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Jason and sorry to read of your problem. With note to your thread title of ‘Low pressure’, what pressure have you been told is low, so members can better relate to your issue? Regards, Gareth.

The question was Dave ‘ is the oil consumption something you could live with….’ ?

Hello Colin, I would want to know the extent of the leak - liveable with? Also, is the oil consumption something you could live with by buying heap oil? You say it has a recent MOT, so worth just using it as long as you can? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thank you Tony. By what I can see you stated you ‘ cleaned the dizzy cap and rotor arm’ - not quite the same? I think I’ll dip out of this one.

Please answer the question Cliff asked Tony - distributor has points and condenser or not- ?

Other way about Tony. It’s the distributor which ‘serves’ the coil.

Thanks Stephen, I think I would have also changed the hub ( which normally houses the sender) at the same time - for the cost of the hub- with- bearing. Kind regards, Gareth.