cliffcoggin

The driver's door lock is the master that controls the other doors.

Including the driver's door?

Richard. I see you visited the forum three hours ago. Have you a reply to the question I posted on Sunday?

Victor. I recall a similar problem arose on one of these forums a few weeks ago, so it would be worth searching recent history.

A wet shock absorber will very obvious. The coating of dirt will absorb any oil and change its colour compared to a dry damper.

If the only software that can access the car is Odis, how much reliance can you place on fault codes derived from other equipment? It grieves me to say it, but I see no alternative to an Audi dealer. Stevey Y, a knowledgeable taxi driver himself, may be along later to comment further.

Anthony. The usual cause of this problem is damaged wiring in the corrugated rubber tube between door and frame. The insulation cracks as a result of the repeated flexing, leading to shorts and/or fracture. It would be worth peeling the rubber back to reveal what lies within as a first step.

Me too. Car repair was straightforward when all controls were mechanical or simple electrical, but we did not have to contend with the complex electronics that control modern cars. You can't hear or feel or see when an integrated circuit fails. All you can detect is a misfiring injector, but who is to say if it is a faulty injector, or a faulty ECU, or a faulty mass flow sensor, or a dying battery? All these and more can cause your problem, hence the need for electronic diagnosis. The world has moved on, for better or worse. We either move with it or retreat into a reverie about the good old days.

Not blooming likely. My days of crawling under cars and getting my hands filthy ended years ago. I prefer the refinement and lack of maintenance of electric nowadays. Thanks all the same.

Done. I am also locking the topic to prevent it escalating.

Bob. If the engine cranks but does not start I fear your chances of selling it for more than its scrap value are slim.

It would be extraordinarily expensive to replace injectors etc. at random without firm evidence of faults. Despite the possible cost it would be worth paying for a diagnosis on a decent code reader such as VCDS before spending on new parts.

I don't think there are any dedicated regional sections of the forums. I guess the best way is to put a call out in the Club Lounge section offering to arrange a meeting.

I think your best bet is to read lots of reviews in Autotrader and the like. Only you can decide what factors are important to you, and what you can afford.

You mean he fitted the wrong battery. Not all battery chemistries are equal: nicad, lithium (several types), silver oxide, etc. have different voltages and capacities. Unfortunately you can not rely on the brand name either to distinguish them, it has to be the right type.

Are you considering petrol, diesel, or hybrid Martin? What engine size would suit you? What is your typical journey length?

True, but that would not cause a thumping sound.

Martin. I have hidden your reply in the Forum Etiquette topic as it is irrelevant there. Please pose any further questions here.

I suggest you find a mechanic who knows what he is talking about because your friend clearly does not.

Making the engine more powerful is not going to protect the clutch. I suggest you research the matter of tuning your engine before making a decision, because more power puts more strain on every part of the engine and transmission, reducing their life expectancy and reliability.

Martin. Your topic was published on Wednesday 16 minutes after you became a member. Perhaps your question was too vague for anybody to offer a sensible opinion.

Possibly one of the engine/gearbox mounting rubbers is defective.

Nicole. Rizmah has not returned to the forum for two years. You would do well to start your own topic.

A further correction to the title for clarity. It is now "Dipped beam fault".

Done. New topic title is "Headlight lenses".