cliffcoggin

I don't download anything from strangers. Attach the picture to your message Jake, or put it on a public platform that scans for malware.

I see no "yellow plastic bits" in your picture. A better photo and description might help.

Can we presume the lack of any news indicates the new clutch has solved the problem?

Asif. You have not mentioned yet, or I missed it if you have, what engine you have. Diesel or petrol?

Asif. One of the Audi petrol engines was notorious for rapid oil consumption caused, I believe, by a manufacturing fault. I don't recall which engine it was because the problem did not affect me, having a diesel, but one of the other regular contributors here may have more detailed information. If it turns out yours is one of the affected engines there is little you can do. If it is not then we need to investigate the more usual culprits of wear and tear. How many miles has the car done? Does it have a full service history? Did you buy it from a dealer?

Forget about code readers and computer diagnostics. Get the battery tested by a deep discharge method which puts a heavy electrical load on it and will reveal problems that a normal volt meter will not detect.

Kelly. Your problem has nothing to do with this thread, and should really be a topic of its own. I suggest you ask a moderator to move it to avoid confusion with other responses and other problems.

Nevertheless it's worth getting it tested.

I wonder if a previous owner fitted after market speakers on the rear shelf at one point, which he then removed before selling the car, leaving the original speakers without any wiring.

Not an identical experience but close enough that it may be relevent. Occasionally mine (also a 2 litre diesel from 2007) would simultaneously show a brake warning light, lose cruise control, lose air con, lose radio presets, and go into limp mode. A few minutes rest restored normal operation. The cause was recognised by a local VAG specialist, who ignored all the false error codes, as a defective battery. Have you had any other strange electrical faults? Was the engine slow to crank over when starting last winter? How old is your battery?

What makes you believe that either the sensor or the cat is defective? Have you considered that there might be a fault with the engine?

Wes. From the limited description of the symptoms it's unlikely anybody can give a precise diagnosis because there are so many possible causes of the problem. Your best option is to have it tested professionally. You have not mentioned the mileage but a 15 year old car is no spring chicken, and should have a long service history. The lack of any such history looks very suspicious.

If the only recommended solution is a new roof, then you have nothing to lose by trying to glue it back. The bath sealant type of silicone mastic is a good adhesive if you can clamp the joint while it cures, though I have not used it for this particular repair. Be aware that many of those silicones are stabilised with acetic acid (vinegar), the fumes of which can corrode adjacent metal parts so ventilate well.

As the battery is only two years old it is unlikely to be the cause of the problems, though I would not entirely rule it out. In your position I would have it deep discharge tested just to be sure. If the faults lie elsewhere I doubt I can contribute anything useful so I shall leave it to others to assist.

If you want help with a fault you have to be precise in your description of it, and that does not always happen. For example we had a correspondant recently who did not know the difference between a tachometer and a speedometer. So I make no apology for questioning which particular light you wrote about. In an effort to be helpful I asked at the end of your previous topic about the battery. I have yet to read your answer.

There are many dashboard lights. Which particular one do you mean by "engine light"? Is this the same car you mentioned in your topics of April 17th and the one before that, and are you still taking it to the same cowboy garage for diagnosis?

That confims the clutch is slipping. If you are lucky it may just be a matter of adjustment; if you are unlucky you need a new clutch.

Another test is to find the "bite point" of the clutch. Apply the handbrake firmly, press the clutch pedal to the floor, engage first gear, open the throttle a little (1300 rpm approx,) and slowly raise the clutch pedal, noting the pedal height at which you can feel the clutch start to engage. That height should be around half up. If that bite point is much above half way there is something wrong with the clutch.

Sounds like the clutch is slipping.

I don't know the answer Dan, but I recall the question being asked a few times in the past. A look through the forum history may be helpful.

Whether it is a belt or a chain it needs to be looked at. If it fails it could wreck your engine.

I am not sure I fully understand the problem. Does the engine speed, as shown by the tachometer, truly go up and down, or is it just the indicator lights that are changing?

Glad to hear it. Confirmation of the solution would have been helpful to others in a similar situation.

None at all. I did not know of a primary air pump, let alone a secondary pump. Or have I misunderstood? The lack of punctuation makes it difficult sometimes.

Please confirm you are using an automatic gearbox.