cliffcoggin

I fully agree with Steve. Nobody in their right minds would value a car without seeing it and driving it. Even then there is no altering the fact it is 29 years old, has a large engine, and limited availability of new parts, factors which will reduce its appeal to buyers.

Don't bother. Take the car back, get a refund, and let the dealer sort it out.

My bet is the DPF cooler leaking. It's a common problem and is often not detected by a pressure test. If so, there is a chance the DPF is also in need of cleaning or replacement. If bought in the last month from a dealer I suggest you return it because the repair will be expensive.

I wish you luck in your endeavour. It's always better to treat the illness not the symptoms as others have tried to do.

Ah, you had not mentioned it is a mild hybrid. In that case all bets are off because there is a lot of other electrickery to be dealt with that I am not competent to advise on. Look at other parts of the forum to see how notorious mild hybrids are.

Well that eliminates coding, which is an unknown factor to many owners. The mention of the "faults" changing when a door is opened makes me wonder if the the wires between door and frame are damaged inside the rubber bellows. It was a common problem on earlier models, though I don't recall reports of it on cars as young as yours.

It may still be a battery problem if you did not code it battery to the car. Did you? See this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFK0JPs6aO0

Thanks Nathan. I have amended your profile accordingly. It helps to know your approximate location so members can offer relevant information specific to where you are.

What are we to make of the opinion of an anonymous unquoted "guy on Youtube"? If you feel the car is not right, and I'd agree it does not, you should get it inspected. The problem could be suspension, brakes, or something else entirely. Does it have a current MOT?

Strange maybe, nevertheless it's a common fault that can affect locks and windows as well.

You may be better off having the existing rack overhauled to avoid any mismatch from secondhand units. There are many companies specialising in this work to be found by an internet search.

Booing or booming? Either way I hear nothing unusual. Unfortunately that is all too common on audio recordings sent to the forum. You can hear the strange noise because your ears and brain are attuned to it; but the rest of us can not. Unless you can make a better recording with less background noise you will need to rely on words to describe it.

The only way to check that I know of is to take the cooler off and inspect it. A pressure test often will not reveal such a leak.

Told by whom? Kwikfit? Take the car to some real mechanics.

OK, you have eliminated the scuttle drains. What about leaks from the wind screen washer pipes/motor/reservoir? Are the soft rubber seals around the bonnet crushed and letting in rain? Is the coolant spraying from a defective reservoir cap or overflow pipe? Is the heater/aircon chamber draining properly? (Condensate needs a way out.)

Martin. To my way of thinking the real problem is to stop water getting on to the throttle body in the first place, not to waterproof it. There is normally no free water under the bonnet, so where is it coming in?

Have you seen this topic: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/30800-creaking-sound-coming-from-front-end-urgent-help/

I can't help further so let's wait for somebody more knowledgable to chip in.

There's the rub. If it wasn't needed there is no point in changing it. It's like saying all engines or gearboxes or wheel bearings should be automatically changed after x thousand miles irrespective of actual condition. They all wear out eventually, but the service life of these items is unpredictable so renewal should only be done as and when evidence points to its need.

Could be many things causing the misfire. The easiest way to get a pointer is to have it scanned on a decent code reader, not a cheapy.

Love it!

For one tyre to wear out much faster than the others there has got to be a fault in the set up. I suggest you get the steering and front suspension examined. Worn bushes, worn joints, a broken spring could all cause the tyre wear.

I don't blame you Paula for being reluctant to drive it. If you are still hesitant about rejecting the car contact a solicitor for advice, but don't leave it too long. Driving the car with known faults might be construed as accepting them.

Please let us know the outcome.

It only mentioned lithium grease. It's nothing special and available all over the world.