cliffcoggin

John. Search other sections of these forums for mild hybrid to see if symptoms described there match yours.

If Audi have no idea I suggest you try an independent gearbox specialist. I suspect the mechatronic control unit needs overhaul.

See this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFK0JPs6aO0

Maris. I do not know it there is a different clutch on stop/start and non stop/start cars, but logically there must be else nobody would fit the more expensive one. Note Stevey Y's comments about the ring gear difference between DMF and standard flywheels, so if you plan to change to standard you need to check whether the starter motor also needs to be changed.

I believe all Audis for the last 18 or 19 years needed battery coding. Certainly my 2007 A3 did.

I was referring to the main 12 volt car battery when I suggested to get it tested. You may find the other problems disappear once that is proven.

Slow cranking like that usually indicates a fault in the battery, the solenoid or the starter motor. That the problem is worse in cold weather suggests the battery is weak or not being properly charged. In your position I'd get the battery tested as a first step, before looking elsewhere. Did you get the new battery coded to the car when it was fitted?

How can you be sure it is not a battery problem? A simple multimeter voltage test is inadequate to detect a dying battery, so as a first step get the battery professionally tested. If the battery needs to be replaced get a decent one, not a nasty Lion or the like. I doubt it will need to be coded to a 24 year old car, but check with the vendor. Once you have a proven decent battery suspicion then falls on the instrument cluster, which tends to fail on A3s of this era. It can usually be repaired by companies such as ECU Testing at a fraction of the price Audi would charge you. Less than £300 if I recall correctly.

A car is only worth what somebody will pay for it. Nobody has paid the price so far despite its excellent condition, so draw your own conclusion.

Perhaps the price is too high.

Ants. False warnings and error messages are typical of a dying battery. It would be as well to get the battery professionally tested.

Is there a button switch on the door frame that is pushed in when the door is closed? Try pressing it in by hand to test it. Otherwise get a scan as Steve suggests.

Thanks. I look forward to reading the outcome.

What news on the electrical problem Colin?

What course of action did you decide upon Bradley?

No you haven't! Your battery was undoubtedly dying and in need of replacement, but that's not to say it was the only fault with the car. No reliable electrical diagnosis can happen until there a stable power supply, so the next step is get the car scanned on a decent code reader.

Car breakers might be the best option for the seat handles, however it would be miraculous if you could find a loom anywhere. If it is essential you may need to make it yourself or find an auto electrician to make it for you.

I don't know if it is a mild hybrid, but if it is I would not touch it with a barge pole. See other parts of these forums to understand why. There have been many problems with that drive train and its BSG, and much frustration at the lack of a general recall by Audi, let alone an admission of responsibility by Audi.

You have not mentioned a price Fred.

Perhaps one of the manufacturers such as Bilstein can help.

Comfort and road holding are conflicting parameters when comes to tyre & wheel choice. High profile tyres on small wheels will generally give a more comfortable ride, but reduced road holding in corners. Again I stress that the two cars may have different spring and damper rates. Changing the tyre/wheel combination without ensuring they suit the suspension could lead to dashed expectations.

Glad you have a resolution David, though worried that Audi can not, or more likely will not, fix the problem. God help the next person the dealer will undoubtedly sell the car to.

Do I understand correctly that you plan to buy a car in Britain then export it to South America? I doubt any warranty issued here will be valid outside Europe, though it is worth checking with the vendor, so the cost of maintenance and repair would fall on your shoulders. Those costs could easily exceed $5000 for the jobs that Steve mentioned. Add that to the cost of export and you have what I regard as an expensive risk. Can you not buy abroad to avoid the paperwork? Another point to check is whether vehicles at your destination are RH drive like us, else the cost of converting headlights to point the other way will also be expensive, not to mention the inconvenience of having the steering wheel on the wrong side.

As long as you maintain the same overall diameter by fitting low profile tyres to the larger rims then yes it is possible. The disadvantage of low profile tyres is the much harsher ride and the possible need for different springs and dampers. Consult a professional for detailed guidance on the change.

Craig. Your pictures show red rust which means the sump is steel, yet David's information states it should be aluminium alloy. I have no idea which material is correct so be cautious what you buy. Personally, unless the sump is perforated and wet with oil, I would rub it down, treat with rust remover, and paint it.