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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. Kate, Justin. Do you realise this thread is three years old, and that Arron has not replied with a solution? (In fact he never bothers to inform us of answers to his questions.)
  2. I have no personal experience of doing the job, but I know it is done during engine manufacture to remove swarf and grinding dust. Presumably it also done by engine reconditioners so perhaps that avenue is worth investigating.
  3. I have no suggestions for you Richard, though I may be able to offer a glimmer of hope. It was recently reported that a similar problem with Tesla cameras was resolved by a software update. I doubt that Audi are as keen to update their software as Tesla, but it might be worth invesigating.
  4. Kevin. I know there are people printing and binding PDFs of car handbooks, because I had to get one for my wife's car. They are available in A5 and A4 format. Unfortunately I can not find the company details any more, so do your own internet search. Her Skoda Yeti was suppied with an immaculate pristine uncreased handbook... with the pages bound in the wrong order, making it unusable. A replacement was not available from VAG so we had to find an alternative.
  5. My suspicion is the same as your suspicion: that there is a complete or partial blockage in one of the oil galleries. The only solution I know of is to strip the engine and reverse flush each passage with oil or water at a higher pressure than the pump makes. I imagine 6 bar would be enough. In case you are not aware, reverse flushing means forcing the fluid in the opposite direction to the normal oil flow.
  6. Check the fifth wheel, if you have one. If it is in good condition it may have been swapped with the poor quality spare after a puncture.
  7. I have no idea what they are made of, or if air ducts even exist on your car. I was itemising a few examples of the sort of things that commonly develop rattles. There may well be others that you will have find yourself.
  8. Ir would not surprise me if a recon box is also cheaper than a manual conversion. I once altered a column change Austin to a floor change. It was bad enough having to fit a new engine back plate and cut a hole in the transmission tunnel, but at least the existing clutch and gearbox bearers could be used again. That was a piece of cake compared to Andrew's proposal.
  9. A new engine needed in a 5 year old car? That's extraordinary unless the car has been abused or maintenance has been skipped. There must be more to this matter than you have revealed, so please tell us more.
  10. A common fault on two adjacent electrical devices often indicates a poor earth connection.
  11. My suspicion matches yours. I suggest you notify the vendor that you have a long trip home from North Wales to Kent with a defective car and ask he if will indemnify you for getting the repair done locally as an alternative to a very expensive long distance recovery.
  12. Ashley. Are you implying Audi and Autoglass for example do not have one?
  13. Thomas. Do I understand correctly that before you collected the car from the vendor he claimed to have replaced the MAF sensor?
  14. Naresh. It seems I misunderstood when you wrote in an earlier post on 6th April that the new battery did not solve the spoiler problem.
  15. Clearly nothing should rattle, so the first step should be to secure any loose parts you can find. That includes exhaust mountings, air ducts around the brake discs, heat shields around the exhaust, etc. If you still have a rattle after securing every source of the noise that is external to the engine, it must be from within the engine or gearbox.
  16. When you say you "have looked under the car", do you mean you peered under the bumper from the front, or you put the car over a pit and rattled every component you could grasp?
  17. No joy (sic) with this one Gareth.
  18. It's worth looking. Postage from Germany would be less than from England, plus I assume Denmark is part of the EU, or at least in the Schengen zone, so import duty will not exist.
  19. There's no harm in asking Stephen, but it would be miraculous if you found somebody able and willing to do the job nearby.
  20. I think I hear it, but not sure. I do hear a creak at about 3 seconds which might be CV joints (bad news) or just one of the steering column bearings (good news).
  21. I think it unlikely that sort of repair would withstand the temperature and pressure of the cooling system for very long. Have you considered having one made as I suggested earlier? Kev pointed out this company in the UK, but possibly there are similar companies in Denmark? https://www.apd.co.uk/car-parts/heater-hose/car/audi/100-c1-saloon-801-803-805-807-811-813-f104-1968-1976/5798_514517
  22. In principle, yes, but if you make the wheels one inch smaller you must make the tyres one inch bigger (higher profile) so that the overall diameter remains the same. That takes no account of physical limitations such as space and clearances for all the moving parts of the suspension and steering, so unless you know what you are doing you should consult a specialist.
  23. Adding surplus oil is not without risk. Better to establish whether the sensor is faulty than to take a chance by over-filling. As Magnet suggested, the only way to be certain is to remove and measure the qualtity of oil.
  24. Peter. See this topic: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/26979-rattle-when-engine-under-load/
  25. Sorry John, all I hear is the usual diesel clatter. It oftens happens that owners post a recording of a noise that is very apparent to them because they become attuned to it as a result of hearing it every day, but we rarely hear anything strange from a short recording.
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