cliffcoggin

In a word: no. They are all worthless. As you have read for yourself, the exclusions mean the policies will not pay for any of the things the average motorist wants covered.

Lock and window faults are commonly caused by one or more damaged wires in the rubber bellows between door and frame. The insulation becomes brittle with age and repeated flexing. Other possibilities include a defective drivers door lock and a weak battery, but start with an examination of the wires mentioned above. Remove all the door cards and pull the wires back until you can see them.

You can do it yourself with VCDS or similar high quality code reader. Cheap ones will not do the job. Alternatively any decent independant or Audi garage can do it,

Try car breakers, many of whom are online nowadays.

It's good to hear from a satisfied Audi owner. We don't get many on this forum.

It would be worth removing the door card and checking the linkage connecting handle to lock.

Paul. For clarification: 1/ What made you assume I was an owner of your model? 2/ You did not mention what you had tried so why was it unreasonable to ask if the MyAudi was suitable? 3/ You would know what car I owned if you had bothered to read my signature line. That I have an electric car as well as an Audi A3 has given me a few insights that many electric car owners are without. 4/ I did not mention the OVMS application because it is not applicable to your car. However it has showed me how little degradation lithium batteries suffer if cared for sensibly. 5/ You specifically wrote "trading in my car with a less than a perfect HV Battery at say 5 to 7 years will doubtless impact the sale value considerably". That clearly indicated your expectation of perfection which I tried to correct. 6/ See above. 7/ Which part of the earlier post have you assumed I did not read? As a moderator of this forum part of my role is to control angry outbursts such as yours. Bear that in mind if you choose to respond further.

No, you need a new battery.

Was the advice of any help Claire?

11.9 volts is too low for a battery in decent condition. Get it tested professionally. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

If the battery is more than five years old it would be worth getting it professionally tested. A dying battery can cause these sort of faults even though it can crank the engine at normal speed.

I'm glad to hear the minor problem of temperature control has been solved. It's a shame it failed to solve the major problem with oil consumption. Changing the engine is a big job so it is worth testing cylinder compressions before committing to the work. If you do need to change the engine be aware that it may also need the donor car's ECU, and also some coding work with VCDS or similar. I am not familiar with the details of the work so wait for advice on this forum from those who do know, or search for professional advice elsewhere. The hoist and another pair of hands will be worth several cases of beer, or even Fosters if that is preferred.

New battery needed. Remember to get it coded to the car. See: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

Don't forget to code the new battery to the car with VCDS.

Yes, my mistake. It is for NOX reduction not soot reduction. Sorry to mislead.

I don't know enough of the details to advise. There are a couple of men on the forum who can advise if they should happen to read this.

I imagine that if you take that photo into the part dealer you won't need a part name or number.

I know nothing about the MyAudi application, but you had not mentioned it so I had to ask. I use an opensource app for my own non Audi car and after six years the SOH is 92%, which is more or less what one would expect. Your expectation of a perfect battery when you sell the car is unrealistic. Every battery degrades from the moment it is first used. I don't know at what SOH Audi guarantees the battery for, it will be well below 100%, probably 85% at a guess, but even then it will last for many years afterwards albeit with gradually decreasing range. Treat the battery with care and it will outlast the rest of the car.

Look at this thread: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

Get the battery professionally tested. A dying battery can cause the symptoms you report, such as limp mode, loss of cruise control. When mine was dying I also had loss of radio pre-sets as well.

Does the MyAudi app not suit your model?

At what price?

So the warning is "coolant temperature too high", not "coolant level too high" as you first reported? That's why I was confused.

I am confused, which happens easily. Are you referring to coolant temperature or coolant level?

How long was water sitting in the fuel system Jonny? It may have caused corrosion of the HP pump and/or injectors. Bare in mind too that remapping can itself cause problematic running.