cliffcoggin

Does that mean the engine now starts and the lights work properly?

I seem to recall many similar or related problems to recent models reported in these forums, so it would be worth spending an hour reading them. I know that's not much help, however my car precedes such electrickery so I did not take a lot of notice and can not point you directly at the appropriate topics.

As you wish Michael, but I can state that a simple multimeter voltage reading is useless in determining the condition of a battery. Only a deep discharge test under a heavy load will reveal internal faults, hence my suggestion of a professional test. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

Harley. It's no surprise that dealers don't have the switch, and if breakers also don't I reckon your only chance is Ebay. You may find an individual breaking that particular model, or maybe somebody in China is making a clone. If you can not buy a switch it may be possible to repair the existing switch if you are handy with tools. If the metal contacts are burnt or damaged you have a chance; if plastic components are broken you have no chance.

Not that I know of, but be aware that a faulty alternator can drain a battery so it needs to be tested.

I think we can assume that the repair was successful as ECU Testing are a reputable company. That leaves battery and alternator as prime suspects.

Andrew. Thanks for an unusually clear explanation. Yes, the driver's door lock is the master that controls the others, so that should be the first thing to sort out. Damaged wires between door and frame are a common problem. Most often the fault affects the driver's door as that one gets the most use, but it will be necessary to examine all the doors and boot wiring as they all suffer insulation cracking. It is possible that speaker wires are also damaged as run through the same rubber bellows as the door and window controls.

Michael. The voltages of 13.9 and 13.1 strike me as a little low, though that may just be an inaccurate meter. It would be worthwhile getting the battery and the alternator professionally tested, mutimeters are inadequate for that job. Did ECU Testing do any repair to the instrument panel or just return it untouched?

Which lights are you referring to? Interior or exterior?

Your guess is a good as mine regarding a warranty claim, but if the battery has been fully discharged there is a possibility it has been damaged. Lead/acid batteries are more resilient than other types to discharge damage, but they are not completely immune. Personally I would not take my car to Audi for a battery test. Audi has a vested interest in declaring it fine. Any decent auto electrician should be able do it. I believe even Halfords will do it, though they would not be my first choice. Ensure you get a printed test report from whoever you choose.

Belief doesn't need to come into it if you get it tested.

PS. Any attempt to resurrect the argument in a new thread will result in an instant ban for the participants.

I will not tolerate arguments from other forums spilling over into this. This thread is locked.

Leaving aside curiosity, does it really matter what the fault or its cure is? If we spend more time discussing it the 30 day limit will expire.

Get the battery professionally tested Charlotte to prove the point. That means a deep discharge test drawing a huge current, not a simple multimeter reading of the voltage under little load.

You bought it from Copart? That explains a lot. The chances are that the car was an insurance write-off i.e. beyond economical repair.

I don't think such a thing exists in the motor trade. You get what you pay for, which at an Audi dealer means a comfortable chair, free coffee, and an obsequious clerk at the front desk; while at an independant means a lower bill, no chairs, no coffee, and often a chance to talk to the man who actually did the work. I prefer the latter.

Funny you should mention re-mapping. Look at the forum history over the past few days for discussion of the matter.

P&R.

No, the radio alone did not not kill the battery, but it was the last straw for a battery that had been slowly dying for months. A dying battery often can start an engine perfectly well, hence few owners are aware of a problem, but the cars sensitive electronic systems are affected by internal faults in the battery so they generate some odd faults. One of the first of those faults is the stop/start system.

Gents. While I am glad to read of opposing views on the matter, particularly as I have no personal experience of re-mapping, the arguments are starting to become personal so I am locking this topic.

Note that failure of the stop/start system is a common first sympton of a dying battery. It's not a definitive symptom, but is in indication that the battery needs to be tested before investigating other causes for the problem.

Being an eternal cynic I suspect any repair under guarantee would be done as cheaply as possible. I'd be glad to be proven wrong.

That's good to read Gary. I hope other Audi dealers will eventually behave so honourably.

If it was mine I wouldn't worry about it for another 50000 miles or three more years unless it makes unusual noises. Those limits are not hard and fast because belt life is dependent on the way an engine is used, but given the consequences of belt failure it would be wise to to err on the side of caution.