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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. cliffcoggin
    Why add to this old topic Renato, when you already have an open topic on the matter? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/27161-rear-suspension/#comment-106442 I am locking this topic now.
  2. cliffcoggin
    I would have thought so. Nevertheless the only causes of friction that occur to me are the bearings and the pads. Perhaps we can get some insight from others.
  3. cliffcoggin
    You say the discs are hot, but how hot is hot? Do you have a temperature measurement? I can't imagine that smaller bore hoses would cause this. It is possible the bearings are too tight. Have they been changed? Perhaps the handbrake is not releasing fully. That would cause rubbing of the rear pads, assuming the handbrake is on the rear wheels.
  4. cliffcoggin
    What is a HPFP? It's not an abbreviation I am familiar with.
  5. cliffcoggin
    Colin. You mentioned long motorway journeys so I assume the pads have bedded in by now. Is it definitely the discs that are the source of the heat, rather than the wheel bearings? If so, the pads must be rubbing, which points directly at the changes you have made to the braking system. Are the new parts standard Audi components? Thicker than normal pads and discs are a possible explanation, but I fancy it is more likely the pistons are not retracting as they should.
  6. cliffcoggin
    I think it very unlikely that the same fuse serves the both the non-essential radio and the essential canbus system. You need to refer to a wiring diagram.
  7. cliffcoggin
    David. You have nothing to lose by trying to clean the connector with fine abrasive and contact cleaner fluid, because the alternative is a new light unit. Make sure you also cure the water ingress or it will happen again.
  8. cliffcoggin
    I'm afaid I can not change it, so I'll pass it to the forum adminstrator who I am sure can do so.
  9. cliffcoggin
    Congratulations. Want a job?
  10. cliffcoggin
    As an example of main dealer fraud, though not specifically Audi, see this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9LyzCzI1xw
  11. cliffcoggin
    Under no circumstances should you buy a warranty extension from a car dealer. They are all legalised robbery.
  12. cliffcoggin
    Search the recent history of this forum and you will find many examples. Please let us know how you get on.
  13. cliffcoggin
    Only you can say if you can or should attempt a repair. It depends how good your welding is, whether you have a suitable jig to align all the parts, and how important it is to get a 31 year old car roadworthy again. Economically it makes no sense at all, but if the car has sentimental value to you then the size of your bank balance is the only limiting factor.
  14. cliffcoggin
    Sadly Audi main dealers will disappoint you, both in terms of customer service and cost. Others here would use less temperate descriptions of them. Hint, hint.
  15. cliffcoggin
    Thanks for your response Marcos, which may well help others with a similar problem.
  16. cliffcoggin
    Thanks Marcos.
  17. cliffcoggin
    Marcos. What was the outcome of your problem? Other forum members have taken the time to offer suggestions, it is polite to make the effort to respond to them.
  18. cliffcoggin
    Marcos. What was the outcome of your problem? Other forum members have taken the time to offer suggestions, it is polite to make the effort to respond to them.
  19. cliffcoggin
    Good luck Fabio, and please let us know the outcome.
  20. cliffcoggin
    Charge away Duncan, providing it is a smart charger. Some can be set according to the type of battery: plain wet cell, or glass mat etc. The old fashioned chargers that do not cut off are unwise for long term use.
  21. cliffcoggin
    How much cash for each item?
  22. cliffcoggin
    While you still have the meter there are two further tests worth doing: /1 Measure the continuity through the element at its terminals with electrical power turned off. No continuity means the element is broken. 2/ Measure the voltage at the element terminals when it is switched on. No voltage confirms no supply. That means you need to work back to the relay, the fuse, and the switch.
  23. cliffcoggin
    If that is the relevant fuse, and I can't think of anything else on the car that might need a 40 amp rating, it may have melted or blown itself apart. I don't know how to extract it without damaging the fusebox but it does need to be tested. Can you get to the terminals with a meter?
  24. cliffcoggin
    You were given the same advice several times but ignored it, and now you complain of sarcasm. I think you owe Magnet an apology.
  25. cliffcoggin
    How things have changed over the years! Decades ago normal practice was to apply Copaslip to the back of the pads (as well as the pins and pad guides,) and rely on anti squeak springs to prevent any noise. So that's something new I have learned from Steve, though I hope I never have to put it into practice.
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