cliffcoggin

Assuming you have tried soap and water without success, T-cut should do the job.

I can't think anything that links all the symptoms together: - low pitched rumble I associate with wheel bearings, tyres or exhaust, - if previous work on the turbo improved the noise for a while than that has got to be the obvious suspect, though I don't understand why, - neither of the above would cause high engine temperatures. Frankly I am at a loss to explain the problem unless there is more than one fault i.e. the noise is unrelated to the temperature. Perhaps somebody else can chip in with an explanation.

You haven't given us much information to work on Ben. Where is the noise coming from? Engine, suspension, exhaust, elsewhere. What sort of noise is it? Rumble, metallic, squeak, whine, knock, something else. What investigation have you done into the fault? Has the car been correctly maintained?

Hello Peter. A jolting clutch with a low bite point is never normal. Unfortunately I can not say precisely what is wrong with it, which isn't much help to you. Reluctantly I must also add that I am far from impressed from what I read here of Audi diagnoses. Can you take it to an independent for advice?

Glad to hear it was nothing serious, and presumably an easy fix.

Hello Darren. With friends like that, who needs enemies. I hope you have deep pockets as gearbox/clutch problems can be expensive.

It sounds to me like a slipping clutch. Whether the cause is mechanical wear of the friction material or an electrical control problem I don't know. Has the gearbox oil been changed? At your mileage it should have been done twice already.

Good luck, and do let us know the outcome.

Well that eliminates a lamp fault. Unfortunately I can't suggest a realistic cause for the problem, and I won't mislead you by guessing. All I can suggest is to find an auto electrician if Audi can not help. PS. Despite having said I won't guess, is one of the other dashboard lights on? I am wondering if there is leakage of light from somewhere else on the panel.

A slight glow sounds odd. It should either be on or off, not something in between. What does it look like on lamp test, i.e. the first few seconds after turning on the ignition when all the warning lights come on to test if they are working?

Gareth is right. You must get the wheels and tyres right before tinkering with springs and dampers, or you will end up with a dogs dinner of a car that does not handle correctly, with the tyres rubbing the wheel arches, the springs bottoming out, or steering that does not run true. Simply guessing and buying bits at random will be throwing money down the drain.

It represents a fuel filler spout. In other words the fuel level is low.

Glad to hear the car is running again. If you have flattened the battery a few times in the past its capacity will have been reduced, so it might be worth keeping the new battery.

Dave. You don't need to remove the battery to charge it, though I appreciate it may not be practical if you park in the road.

I am faced with a bewildering choice of wireless rear view cameras, ranging enormously in price and presumably quality. Has anybody here any practical experience of fitting one to an A3? I am particularly interested in the minimum of exposed wiring, ease of fitment, and usefulness at night.

Since writing the above I see several companies in England will do the work for about £150.

That's hard luck, and potentially expensive. I have heard of faults in the dashboard instruments causing this sort of problem. I also vaguely recall reading of a company that will rebuild or repair the dashboard at a fraction of the cost of a new one. Unfortunately I don't remember the name or location of the company. Perhaps an internet search will help you find someone local to you.

Thanks for the information Lynne. As other electrical systems work and the battery has enough power to turn over the engine, it looks as if the engine control unit (ECU) is faulty. That's a specialised job and beyond my competence. I suggest a car electrician should be your next port of call. If there are none at hand you may have to resort to an Audi main dealer, though I have not been impressed by what I read on this forum about their diagnostic abilities. P.S. As the problem appeared shortly after the car service and MOT I wonder if the mechanic has dislodged an electrical connection.

You haven't given us much information to work on Lynne. Have you checked the battery connections? Did the central locking unlock from the fob? Do the sidelights work? Do any other electrical systems work? That sort of data will help to locate the fault which could be anything from a dying battery to simple blown fuse.

So are you now responsible for putting it right? That could be expensive. There could be any number of things causing your problem so ideally you need to get a professional diagnosis. That will cost money, but will still be cheaper than installing new parts at random in the hope that you might cure it.

My advice is to take it back and let the dealer sort it out.

My suspicion is that the original diagnosis of a faulty head gasket was wrong. Testing the acidity (which is what pH measures,) is not conclusive proof of such a leak to my mind. I suspect your leak is elsewhere. Can you see any wet patches or antifreeze stains anywhere around the engine when it is up to full temperature?

Kay. I share Gareth's cynicism regarding electronic diagnosis. All too often I have seen such diagnoses on this forum that bore no relation to reality.

That's like asking how long is a piece of string. Without more detail nobody can say. If you bought it from a dealer I suggest you take it straight back for him to repair. If it's a private purchase your options are limited. Try discussing it with the seller to see if any settlement can be agreed.

What has the windscreen got to do with the radio?