cliffcoggin

Shrug. BMW, Mercedes, Ford, Audi, Citroen, Toyota. They are all much of a muchness nowadays in terms of quality since the bean counters set to work destroying their old reputations in pursuit of reduced manufacturing costs.

Two identical topics merged.

You rely on advertisements for technical reliability information?

It is normal on all cars made by all brands.

Have you searched EBay?

It could be a dying battery.

I distinctly remember one dry sunny day in the Hebrides about 25 years ago, though it must be admitted the rest of my time there was wet.

No recall that I know of. Audi's recommendation for timing belt and water pump renewal used to be about 70000 miles, but has been increased to effectively never, which I and others here believe was a mistake given the known vulnerability of the belt, and the sometimes catastrophic consequences of its failure.

The electronics on modern cars are very sensitive and can lead to bizarre problems like yours when one system inferferes with another. That's one reason why errors shown on code readers have to be interpreted carefully rather than always taken at face value.

Wet clutch or dry, single clutch or double. Why the concern if it has been renewed? The life of clutches, like the life of brakes, depends entirely on how harshly the car has been driven, which of course you will not know. As long as you have the full service history and the car performs well on test it is worthy of consideration.

Glad to read it. Thanks for letting us know.

You have not mentioned the mileage, but if it is high it is not unreasonable to renew the clutch. All clutches wear out eventually.

That's a good price. I hope to hear of success.

O dear. A DMF is expensive to replace. Have you checked underneath for loose under trays, loose exhaust brackets, rattling clutch cable etc?

17 hours without a response is nothing. Learn some patience and wait for four or five days. If there is no reply after that it is reasonable to assume nobody is willing or able to assist.

Thanks for letting us know.

That's very possible, though not certain without a decent diagnosis.

I suspect a faulty switch.

Read the whole thread to find the answer to your question.

Hmm. Best to get an expensive diagnosis done. The cheap ones often don't do a proper job.

Added to which you would have to pay somebody to adjust the tracking afterwards.

If I understand correctly, when you set the cabin heater for cold it still blows hot. Is that correct? If so I reckon the flap inside the heater which controls the mixture of hot and cold air is faulty. I believe it has an electric motor to drive it, which likely is the problem. An Audi specialist should be able to sort it out.

So I noticed Gareth. Reading between the lines I doubt we will get a reply.

The usual, but not the only, cause of stop/start problems is a dying battery. A professional battery test, not a simple voltage test with a multimeter, carried out at no charge by suitably equipped garages will reveal any defects. If a new battery is needed ensure it is coded to the car.

That's a horrifying degree of corrosion which can not have happened in one year, so any MOT you may have must be considered fake. I suggest you get the car inspected by another tester before spending any money on the car in case there is other corrosion to be rectified.