cliffcoggin

Are you asking us or telling us?

Carl. I have merged your two topics on the same subject. Have you followed Steve's advice?

As Magnet said, 40 mA is perfectly normal. Over five days that equates to about 5Ah drain which is only a fraction of the capacity of a battery. That suggests to me that either the battery is defective or something such as the starter solenoid is not unlatching after use. An auto electrician may be your best source of help.

Run the washer pump while watching it and the pipe. The internal seals in the motor are a common failing.

I recall something similar in one of the other forums on this site, probably for different model, but I can not find it now. Be that as it may, your car should still be covered by the new car guarantee, so let's hope Audi can replicate the fault because, as you say, if the computer says no then Audi will be clueless.

It's debatable, but in my view pre-tensioners are a part of the seatbelt, therefore if they activate at the wrong times they must be defective so how can one rely on them at the right times.

Evidently the car believes you have opened the door or released your seatbelt while the gearstick is in Drive, so possibly the switches on the gearstick and seatbelt are faulty. A scan on a decent code reader should identify the fault.

As far as I can tell the Caymans are governed by British law, so your legal recourse should be to get the vehicle inspected by an independant body, then present the findings to the garage that did the work. However I do wonder if you are giving us the full story. You obliquely mentioned "the accident". Was the car in a major crash that twisted the chassis? Were you promised it would be repaired to new condition? Does the car meet whatever vehicle test requirements are in force locally?

Thank you.

A wise decision Billy. Under no circumstances should you allow strangers to take remote control of your computer with Team Viewer or similar software. That is the classic way for scammers to clean out your bank account.

A wise decision. It won't surprise you to know I have had a few of these plug-in EVSEs, so I suggest you find one with separate buttons for current and delay time to avoid mistakenly altering the wrong setting on a single button. You will see many identical units for sale with different brand names, but note they are all made in the same Chinese factory. Furthermore the one I had with a phone app was utterly useless and was sent back for a refund. Maybe they are better now, or maybe it was just a weak wifi signal in my garage. I settled for reliability over convenience and now set the delay when I park the car.

Darren. It might help your chances of getting a reply if you responded to the help given in your other topic. Regulars here don't like wasting time on non responders.

Strictly speaking the charger is in the car. The equipment you plug into the car is nothing more than a 230 volt AC power supply with some electrical interlocks to communicate with the car. It is also known as an EVSE. The important points to note are: 1/ Whether the wiring to your socket outlet is rated for 13 Amps. It should be if the cable is 2.5 mm diameter, but it would be as well to check. 2/ The longer the cable on the EVSE the greater the power loss. Typically these things can lose as much as a fifth of the consumed power as heat, so it makes sense to have the cable as short as practical. That's why I question if you really need a 10 metre cable. 3/ There are many instances of the 3 pin mains plugs on these units melting and sometimes igniting as a result of the heat generated by drawing 13 amps (or even 16 amps in some units,) continuously for many hours. That is the principle reason a normal extension cable should not be used between socket outlet and charge point. You should bear those factors in mind when choosing a plug-in EVSE. (I do hate the use of acronyms, but it's often unavoidable.) As a matter of fact I use a charge point that has adjustable current and delay timer for my car, even though many folk are calling for a ban on them because of the potential for fire. I took the precaution of having a dedicated socket outlet only 8 inches from the fuseboard. I also limit the charging current to 10 amps,but despite that the 3 pin plug gets warm after six hours. In summary be prepared for an element of risk if you get one of these units, and use it wisely. A safer solution would be a fixed installation costing over £1000. I have had five of the fixed charge points, but none were suitable for my particular car because of its limited software capabilities, hence I was forced to revert to a plug-in.

Hang on a moment. You started the thread asking about extension cables for what I assume is an Audi charge point; now you are suggesting a complete new charge point of unknown quality. Can we start again by asking what the problem is with your charge point, what brand it is, and why you want to change it? Despite what you may read here or elsewhere, you can not safely plug anything you want into a domestic socket without consideration of the electrical load the appliance will draw.

Translation of Gujs's message. ............................................................................ Hi I have a problem with an Audi RS6. The car indicates that the alternator has no communication. I replaced the alternator yesterday and still have the same problem. It shows u100800 and u105200, but no message is shown in the instrument panel. The problem is that while driving, I suddenly release the throttle, sometimes around 60/70 km per hour or at a constant speed, the power drops and immediately returns. I hope someone can help me with this/tips. It is my girlfriend's car and now she is using mine.

Good work investigating the problem Jonny. Stevey Y is probably the best person to advise on injector changing.

Thanks Richard. If I still worked on my own car I would undoubtedly invest in one. However I don't so I shan't.

It's inevitable that a high mileage car will probably, though not certainly, have more faults than a low mileage car. It will all depend how carefully the cars have been driven and how well they have been maintained. Nevertheless it would be wrong to generalise and condemn all high mileage cars out of hand. Whatever the faults, they can all be fixed if you throw enough money at them. Sorry, but you must make your own decision based on the factors I mentioned and the size of your budget. A good starting point would be to ensure the cars have a full service history. Any that don't should be ignored.

If you bought from the dealer within the last 30 days you are entitled to a free repair or a refund. Given the size of the leak I doubt Radweld would seal it.

Easy? That depends how much mechanical aptitude you have. I'm guessing you have never done anything like it so perhaps put a day aside for the job.

Not really. You need to search for yourself. Independant VAG specialists should have access to appropriate equipment and diagnostic tools to cater for all problems.

I don't blame you.

Richard. For my own interest, is the VCDS a self contained unit or does it need to be connected to a laptop computer? I can't get the details myself from the Ross Tach website without accepting cookies which I never do.

Ian. I don't know what that connector is called, but is it definitely the connector that is leaking, rather than the gasket under the flange?

Every single warning light should illuminate for a few seconds after turning the ignition key. It's a lamp test function designed, as the name suggests, to demonstrate if the bolbs are working. I suspect the oil level fault is a separate matter to the above, and is probably a sensor failure. Scanning with a decent code reader should confirm. I believe a new sensor is cheap but I don't know how difficult it is to fit. If your car has a dipstick then it will be more than adequate for checking oil level until you get the sensor sorted out. Dip the oil once per week according to the car handbook, or more often if the engine is known to be an oil guzzler.