cliffcoggin

From what I have read on this forum, because I am not a user of these machines, it is common for cheap code readers to be unable read all codes. Only professional quality readers like VCDS for example are of any real use.

I believe the only non pirated maps are from Audi alone

Have you not found anyone yet? What about https://www.warmsworthsc.co.uk/VW.html

The jacking points close to the wheel arches are the only reliable way to raise the car without damaging the chassis. Although a tow ball may be strong enough for the job the load is liable to bend the chassis a little. In some cars it is also possible to jack under a few other places such as a strong cross member or very close to the outer end of the track rods, but you really need to know what you are doing, so I do not recommend it. In any case case jacking on the suspension would prevent removal of the axle.

I am not convinced any car will hold its value, but I don't follow the market in such things so I claim no real knowledge. What I do know is that the car will deteriorate over time unless you have the facilities to keep it dry, covered, well ventilated, and charged.

Good day Wayne. I am curious why you would buy a car and not use it for five months or more? Your investment is depreciating without any return.

Well that rules out a mod causing the problem. If the garage you went to was Audi they should have been able to diagnose the fault, so there wouldn't be any point buying a VCDS of your own unless you are certain it can cure the problem. I assume the garage also tested properly the battery, because a dying battery can cause unrelated electronic faults including limp mode.

Points and carbs are also my era Tony, so good luck to you. I don't blame you for getting rid of the E-Tron after the problems you have had. If you ever want to buy another electric car consider a Geely or BYD or any other Chinese brand. European car makers are still trying to catch up with the Chinese after too many years of neglecting electric propulsion.

Joe. Has the car been modified in any way? Re-mapped, DPF deletion, EGR deletion, for example.

Spare me the excuses R, I've heard them all before. It's not within my power to delete your input. I can however hide it so it is unseen by members. Similarly your membership is something only you can end. I can not do it.

If poor starting is the only symptom it would be worth getting it diagnosed on a decent code reader.

To each, his own. Sorry I can't answer your question.

Why do you want to do that?

Cheeky, but worth trying.

If all else fails, look for model engineers or clockmakers. Many of them are willing to fabricate small numbers of small components.

Have you also heard of the disadvantages such as decreased reliability and increased wear? There is always a price to be paid for extra performance. You should consider all aspects before deciding what to do.

Diagnose it with the code reader you said you were going to buy in your previous topic.

[1] Nonsense. Just use the grade of fuel recommended by the manufaturer. [2] The wheels become dirty mainly with brake dust. Whether the wheels are driven or not makes no difference, every wheel has a brake which gives off dust. [3] Use soapy water for cleaning. It works on all colours and all cars.

Well if you don't know what you want, how can we advise? What do you hope to achieve by remapping? Until you have some specific targets I suggest you leave it as standard.

No, such things mean nothing to me.

Yes I mean a code reader, but not the cheap ones available from Ebay and the like. You need a professional quality scanner which can read the full range of codes. VCDS is one commonly recommended on the forum, and there are a couple of others whose names I don't recall.

Met. I have hidden your identical duplicate topic.

With the engine out it will be so much easier to work on than doing it all under the bonnet. While it is out it would be worth taking the head off and checking the valves, maybe regrinding them if such a thing is done nowadays. You can then also measure the bores for wear. At the bottom of the engine look at the main and big end shells, and check the journals. That data should give you an indication of how much work is needed, and hence how much it is likely to cost.

That's a generous offer Rob. I hope someone will take it up.

Mark. You could waste huge amounts of money fitting new parts at random in the hope it will solve your problem. You have already bought coil packs, a carbon clean, and a mass flow sensor to no avail. How much more money and time are you prepared to throw away? The key to an economical repair is diagnosis on a VCDS or similar quality machine.