cliffcoggin

You may still have an air lock.

Mark. Was the information shown above of use to you?

Many of us here recommend independent VAG specialists rather than Audi dealers. They generally are more helpful and approachable than the corporate Audi dealers, and are frequently cheaper into the bargain. An internet search will show those near to you.

What can happen if there is air in the system and the pump does not make enough pressure to move it, is that the air expands as it heats up which pushes coolant to the reservoir and out of the overflow. That coolant is lost, so when the car cools down even more air is drawn into the system. You need to get rid of the air before the cycle of heating and cooling begins. It is a problem that only affects a few models as it depends entirely on the design of the cooling system. It's comparable to air in the central heating system of ones house. Air will collect in the tops of the radiators, particularly those on the upper floors, and sometimes can not be moved by the pump, hence the need to bleed the air at each radiator to restore flow.

Steve. The volume of a car is much less than a room so you only need a small capacity dehumidifier. The running cost will depend on the humidity setting you select. One thing I forgot to mention is that you need to get rid of the water the machine collects. I doubt that running a drain pipe from your car is an option so that leaves emptying the tank daily. That in turn reminds me that a power cable will needed, which is fine if the car is safely in a garage but not so good if the car is outside.

Steve. I use an electric dehumidifier in my workshop as a cheaper alternative to heating, and it is very successful in preventing naked steel tools rusting by extracting a litre or more per day of water from the atmosphere. As far as I recall it uses 600 watts for six hours per day. (I have it on a timer so that it runs mainly on cheap overnight electricity. I also set it to stop at a somewhat higher humidity setting than the "normal" setting. If you don't fancy running an electric device in the car you will find that containers of calcium chloride are more effective than sodium chloride (salt) at extracting moisture because it has a greater affinity for water. This is the sort of thing I mean: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANSIO-Dehumidifier-Condensation-Moisture-Dehumidifiers/dp/B015AOGP1S?crid=B996OUG3WFWH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.FVZ5pjN9QD7zShhv5-NWBs2nzt4E7i2tuiOc7Dpz6hCeIN_0kNcO_2rec-koKry4Eoe-Ojktf4BS4WovCQQqEDBuqr-fY9iao7KhkDFrbI_q-_hA-bcv4YR9glvBnC4cay4uHToaSJIyxNJKMJwNe24Au4k1JMAhajccK41MQdM950D5LVwBq1eX9MqevnFZUYpXS5ujTORp6o9Nzogf8w0eG0wc9FJptR-T1FoppSo.tdOXAsBl3go4PMVFOtm-m10UMp-8w02i3apCNfGY704&dib_tag=se&keywords=dehumidifier%2Bcrystals&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1732828908&sprefix=dehimidifier%2Bcrystals%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-4&th=1 Both sodium and calcium chlorides can be regenerated by heating in a very hot oven. Cliff.

Chances are you have an airlock which can be difficult to eliminate. If you can apply vacuum to the reservoir and get lots of air bubbling up from the system that would be confirmation. Top up the reservoir and repeat until all air is out.

If that was a recent purchase from a dealer take it back and get him to sort it out at no cost to you. If that is not an option then the obvious problem is the battery, hence the low voltage warnings. If your garage test was done with a simple volt meter it will not have revealed internal battery faults. I suggest in that case you get the battery professionally tested elsewhere. That is not to say the battery is certainly the cause of the problem, but until you eliminate the battery as a cause it is pointless to look for other faults.

I agree they should have warned you in advance, and also reconnected the dashcam once the work was complete. For comparison, would you be happy to have a tradesman in your house filming his work if there was a chance he would publish the video on Youtube or Facebook etc?

Dave. It might as simple as the steering wheel rubbing lightly on the cowling around the column. If the noise stops when you bend the cowling in a little you have found the cause. A trace of silicone oil should help. On the other hand the noise may be from the steering column bushes that are a lot more difficult to access.

Been there, done that. However times have changed and most of us can no longer tinker without a care for economy, emissions, reliability etc. let alone any understanding of what we are doing.

Consider that if gadgets like this, and also metal pellets in the fuel tank to improve economy, magic oils that improve economy, magnets on the water pipe to prevent scale, were as cheap and effective as the suppliers claim, then they would be fitted as standard in the factory. That fact that such things are not ready fitted is because they either do not work, or any advantages are outweighed by disadvantages such as premature failure.

If you believe the performance to be sluggish you would be better advised to have it checked before throwing money at an unproven gadget.

I second that recommendation. Decent antifreeze has corrosion inhibitors to prevent that sort of corrosion; the cheap stuff does not.

That's unfortunate, but if there is no alternative it would be worth searching for a company or a competent mechanic to fabricate the hose from metal T-pieces and straight hose.

Wouldn't it make sense to ask the vendor?

Ivo. What you call a normal cold start, when the engine idles well above its warm speed, is actually abnormal. As Stevey Y explained your engine is cold starting normally, and you should not be concerned about it providing it starts easily and idles evenly without any intervention from you.

No more of an imposter than me. I no longer have an Audi, and as if that was not enough, my current car is electric.

Steve. If all else fails you could try buying plain straight or bent silicone hose from Ebay and cutting it to length yourself. That would only work if you can measure the ID of the original accurately and there are no branches in it. You would need to fit hose clamps as well. The first supplier I found was https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385050052731?_skw=silicone+hose&itmmeta=01JDAJSV0WC50JQXCWWD296ZWV&hash=item59a6c5887b%3Ag%3A6OsAAOSwud1i8N48&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKn1r65jsH3Mn1dUx0VBIpCyHyEmxepNCORmL0DfrunmF6aXGcDWcDI6MnEq%2BDFHO8HeNbCU1LWK5KQHw29w4Rlnm0ErfJtAmjflVMmuUi%2B1F0oWs1FgWRfCKMNDZS%2BNeiKeMuujg1pmewiw3sXueG1nnfQsplHY9kUR%2FqeuwkL7IY50ZyZ30nMoMqQruNQfUKHPG06ybkQkUvoPlAeg8cuGwp271dfhA5TkPEYxoXbKqQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUMSw59LqZA&var=652930845042

Many years ago the 1.4 litre petrol engine suffered dramatically high oil consumption leading to many claims by owners. The problem was eventually rectified by Audi with a modification to the rings. It's unlikely you will come across one of them now, but it is worth knowing of the possibility. Unfortunately I don't recall the affected production dates so you would need to research it yourself, unless others here can supply the information.

I suppose there might be privacy issues if the possibility exists of you filming or even publishing names and faces of staff at work. Which is very convenient for the dealer because you also can not see what is done or not done to your car.

Matt. It is evident from what you described that the valve body fault was introduced while the car was under repair. To my mind that makes the garage that did the work responsible for putting it right, however it will undoubtedly argue that it was co-incidence or an existing fault, and hence will deny liability. It's going to be tough proving the dealer's responsibility, and given that the repair cost is going to be £5500 it may need to go to court for a settlement. It is certainly worth appealing to Audi UK, but I would simultaneously consult a solicitor for advice on your options and your chances of winning. Whichever route you take to resolve the problem is going to take a long time. Months or possibly years in fact. If you want the car repaired now you may well have to pay for the work in the hope of recovering your costs at a later date. That is a choice only you can make. Sorry to be so pessimistic. Justice does not always prevail.

OK. There was definitely a fault with the dual mass flywheel which has been satisfactorily fixed. DMF breakage is not uncommon so there is nothing contentious there. Then we come the valve body fault and error message. Were any symptoms present when you took the car for the flywheel repair, or was the problem apparent only afterwards?

Matt. It is not clear to me what the problem was that initially caused you to visit the dealer in the first place. Was it the error message and staying in D1, or was there some other symptom? What I am trying to get at is whether there were two faults with the car of which only one has been fixed, or whether the valve body fault was wrongly diagnosed as a flywheel fault.

Phone, write or email him.