cliffcoggin

He did not unlock it he broke it, so it's only right that he pays for a new one.

I have locked this topic as it is a duplicate of one in another section.

Fair enough Matt. You probably know more about the coding aspect than I ever will, however as a chemist I do know enough to realise that one can not treat all batteries the same when it comes to charging. For example lead-acid batteries will tolerate a lot of charging abuse, calcium chloride batteries less so, while lithium batteries (particularly LMC) must be treated with kid gloves when it comes to charging. I assume that aspect is at least part of the reason for battery coding.

While coding a battery to the car may not be a good description, it is the term used by those I have met in the trade. I have no idea how it is done but there is no doubt that the car's software needs to be informed of the batteries capacity, type, and chemistry for the charging circuitry to operate correctly. Long gone are the days of dynamos charging lead-acid batteries to any value from 12 volts to 15 volts with no impact on the battery's performance.

Approved by whom? What sort of guarantee did the approver offer?

Any progess on this John?

Fuses don't blow of their own volition. There must be an electrical fault which you need to get diagnosed. Nobody here can make that diagnosis without knowing what circuit is protected by the fuse, what symptoms the car shows, and what error messages are present. If the car was cheap because of this fault there is a fair chance repair is going to be expensive, else the seller would have done it himself and got a better price.

What has getting old got to do with it? I was 29 when I got my first automatic and I would never return to a manual box. I don't understand why anyone would want to wiggle a metal pole sticking up from the car floor just to make it move from A to B, as if he was stirring a pan of porrige.

David. This topic is a duplicate so I am locking this one. Posing the same question several times will not gain you any advantage.

In addition to Steve's comments, it may also be the Mechatronic unit within the gearbox, which was a source of problems in earlier A3s. I suggest you it diagnosed at a Audi dealer or a VAG specialist.

New topic please. I am locking this one.

A shame you did not mention that earlier. Whenever you swap wheels or change the pressures the TPMS needs to be recalibrated.

Well done.

Motorway journeys are faster than other roads so the tyres get hotter and their pressures higher. Is it possuble that the TPMS can warn of high pressure as well as low?

Rory. You have not yet told us what this rear light problem is.

Michael. Can you reverse your tester so that it applies negative pressure instead of positive? If that pulls bubbles of air from the cooling system into the reservoir it shows it to be air locked.

True, but I would personally prefer a paper manual that would not be damaged by falling on the ground or having a greasy spanner dropped on it. Maybe that says more about my age than I care to admit.

I am not familiar with this model, but theoretically it is possible that if the AC drain is blocked then condensate may fill the heat exchanger to the point that it overflows into the air duct and enter the cabin.

I am not saying anything of the sort; I am saying I don't believe an oil separator will solve the problem of crankcase pressure. I suggest you get a diagnosis and second opinion from a different garage before committing any money.

I did wonder briefly if it could be associated with the EGR removal, but said nothing as I could not imagine how the bolt would get into the engine. Are you going to claim against the company that removed the EGR?

Yes the cost was expensive, but unless you can do the job yourself you don't have any option but to grin and bear it. My worry is still the origin of the nut. If it fell off some other component then that component is liable to fail at some point. I assume the garage would have identified it if possible so I suppose it must remain a mystery. Regarding the password change, there can be a delay in registering that sort of change in my experience. I don't know why that should be but the forum administrator will probably be able to explain it.

Yes it is. Panel lights come on for a few seconds to show they are working. It is called a lamp test and clearly yours has failed the test.

That sounds like a good plan. I hope you have a fat wallet as it is never advisable to ignore warnings related to 4WD transmissions.

The only comment I will make on that part is that it is unsuitable for your car according to the supplier you quoted. Q3 2013 is not listed. I am not in any case convinced an oil separator is going to solve the problem of crankcase pressure if you have changed the PCV, or EGR valve as it is called here. Furthermore I don't see why you would buy any part from America given the scale of postage costs across the Atlantic.

This could be a long night if all your replies are to be monosyllabic. How about giving us some details so we can try to resolve the problem.