Steve Q

Welcome to the forum Simon, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 I see you live in Leicestershire. Nice to have another person on here from the same county 👍 If I've not mistaken, isn't the 1b engine similar to that of the UR Quattro engine? As such a know this website is popular for UR tuning goodies: https://store.034motorsport.com/ I think if you're increasing power it might be worth adding an upgraded intercooler, turbo and then a remap/performance chip. Obviously combining it with a custom exhaust which I'm going to guess you already have as the engine is sitting in a T25 and if you're going for more power then you might need an induction kit or similar plus bigger radiator as the engine is obviously in the back not the front as it would have sat in the Audi. This will definitely be important depending on whether the T25 is an early example no or later one. The air-cooled ones only had the upper grill at the front whereas the water-cooled ones had a lower grill too to aid cooling. Obviously you could had extra cooling by putting holes in the rear engine lid depending on what look you're going for. From what I've seen the 5 cylinder engine was very durable. If you're removing the engine anyway then you could consider a Subaru boxer engine which are very tunable abd popular for T25 owners. As such there are various conversion components available already. Hope I've helped in some way. Cheers Steve

You're welcome 🙂 sorry I couldn't help more. If you find your Audi garage is closed then I'd recommend you speak to your local motor factor as I'm sure they'll know what part you'll need, and how it's accessed 👍

Not sure if they're open. I know Chapman's independent Audi specialist is open as I drive past it twice a week 👍

Uncle

You're welcome 👍 my plan is to use either one of them to do some work on my a6. Just to try an Audi specialist as apposed bro my local mechanic. Cheers Steve

Hi Simon the canister has this function: stores crankcase fuel vapours when the car is switched off and then draws it back in again to be used in the combustion process I think you will have to trace the pipes,the supply pipe runs from the tank to the fuel filter,and the return comes from the engine,the third pipe is a breather pipe which runs to the charcoal filter which I think is situated near the drivers side front wing.The pipes are under pressure,but once released there should not be so much petrol running. I personally wouldn't cap the breather but get a good second solenoid. Also if you have a corroded pipe, other owners have found using stainless steel central heating pipes is an adequate replacement. And the clips you should be able to buy from any motorfactors. You might be able to get the parts from Audi as a set assembled and I believe they are a complete pain the rear end to fit as they go behind the steering rack. I've also seen on the s2 forum that owners just remove the canister completely but how this would affect emissions I'm not sure. S2 owners have also: Just plug the hose that enters the IM, so you don't get a boost/vacuum leak. Leave the N80 pluged in or you'll get a fault code. Then go to the boot and you'll see where the pipe exits the tank breather to go to the front of the car, disconnect that and replace it with a hose that will be the new vent. I routed mine out the air vent in the boot, so the fumes exit behind the rear bumper.

Hi Parm, Personally I haven't used them (yet) but I've heard good things about Chapman's independent Audi specialist based in Wigston, Leicester. There's also lion garage in Leicester which is also a VAG specialist. Not sure of any others nearer to you though, sorry. Cheers Steve

Arctic

You're welcome, glad I could help 🙂 Cheers Steve

Nice one. Glad you're working through it 😊 Cheers Steve

Hey Jez, I think it depends which gearbox is in your s4. You can find out by looking at the build sticker in your spare wheel well or the inside front cover of your service book. You can use the decider to find out: http://prsearch.planetvag.com From there you should be able to find out where the switch is Cheers Steve

Welcome to the forum Lynsey you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 The left circled button is to turn on/off the air conditioning. The right circled button is to allow the air to come through the dash vents. Cheers Steve

You're welcome, glad I could help 🙂 Cheers Steve

You're welcome 🙂 Wow you've got your hands full but ideal for lockdown 👍 Cheers Steve

Nice one 👍 Take care Steve

You're welcome 🙂 thank you, you too 👍

Hi Kev the siren/horn for the alarm is under the o/s side trim in the boot, also from my dodgey memory it has a back up battery which will make for the quite-ness. cheers Steve

Sounds like you've got a nicely maintained a4. There's no set mileage that the pump needs replacing, again I'd only do it once it fails. I'd do a battery test before changing it but thankfully it doesn't needing coding to the car. You might need to drive it a little but for the esp light and steering wheel angle sensor to reset themselves. The only problem you may have is the key might need recoding to the car after the battery change. Here's a video that'll help with reprograming: If the CD changer isn't in the glovebox then it'll either be built into the headunit or it'll be in the boot in the passenger side compartment. Regarding the rear seat I believe it might have been an option to ha e the split folding seats. My advice would be to have a look to see if there are release levers at the top of the seat backs where the headrests are and on the sides of the C pillars. Glad I can help 🙂 Once again, it's a very nice looking a4 👍 Cheers Steve

Explorer

Welcome to the forum Stuart you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Lovely looking a4 you have there. Such a great colour and looks good with the silver wing mirrors 👍 Cheers Steve

Welcome to the forum Stuart, you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch. Did the car come with full/part service history? I ask as the history of the car may help in deciding what may/may not need doing. First thing I would be looking bat is when a full service was carried out along with then the cambelt and water pump was last changed. Injectors are a known weakness on this engine but I personally wouldn't change them untill they fail. Also it's worth checking turbo boost hoses, radiator hoses etc for any splits. You can get oil pump drive problems with this engine. The oil pump is driven off the balancer shaft unit by a hexagonal shaft (imagine a 6mm allen key with the 'bent' end cut off), which can wear smooth. This problem is quite rare though, and you dont have to expensively replace a substantial part of the engine to repair it. There are upgraded balancer what's available. Cost: "Only prob with going this route is weather to change the oil pump and sprocket at the same time, further cost of circa 300 quid for parts alone." Wing mirrors have probably been painted silver to give an rs4 look. You could changee the caps to blue but it's personal preference really. also if you're trying to find what options your came with when new there is a build sticker in the spare wheel well and in the inside front t page if the service book which gives all the codes. Here's a decoder to help you find what options your car has: http://prsearch.planetvag.com Hope I've helped 🙂 Cheers Steve

You're welcome, glad I could help 🙂 oh make sure you get the genuine Audi ones as there are a lot of inferior ones out there. It's what I've seen with other VAG cars with performance upgrades. Cheers Steve

The other area is the pollen filter housing. Mine cracked and was causing water ingress into the passenger side footwells. I've also had the scuttle panel one too. Think failed door seals can cause leaks as well if I'm not mistaken. Cheers Steve

You're welcome, glad I could help 🙂 Please let us know how you get on 🙂 Cheers Steve

Trek