Dan3222

Again my English is crap and combined with auto correct.... well but I am sure u get what I am getting at. Lol

Unfortunately I can't comment on the electrical side of this, but if you repeatedly are getter no pressure sensor codes and you have fitted a new sensor I would suggest a bit of a blast in your car in lower gears. See if you get a good blast of smoke comping out of the exhaust. I would assume on a 2007 car it will have a DPF and my guess this is a bit choked up. youncan also do a forced regen by driving in a lower gear like 3rd or 4th keeping the revs above 2500 for s few minutes (after the quick blast btw). This will burn the carbon deposits away and depressurise the exhaust system. only cost y a bit of fuel and time too😊

Is the wing mirror housing fully engaged into its normal position? My T5 passenger one is difficult to get into the correct position. The drivers is very easy, just pops straight into place. If it's not the housing press firmly on the centre of the glass with both thumbs. The clips on the back of the mirror may need pushing fully home. Pleased you got your Allroad btw. Love them!!

Just wondered if anybody is planning to attend the meet in Biggar later this month. Theres a chance I might be going in the T5 but might be good to meet a few 4 circle fans too? there is the .MK2 one sometime in August too, food for thought.

No problem, Have a great trip Mr Q.

I missed this thread completely. I had exact same symptoms on my old Scirocco. First thought it was flexi pipes ballooning out occasionally. I changed them and thought it was sorted about 4 weeks later it happened again. I changed the servo with second hand one. Never did it again. Just be mindful of it still though mate. If it does do it again while driving do a quick pump of brakes rather than just keep pushing down if that makes sense.

Then at 10k I would be surprised if the DMF has packed up that quick unless you drive like Hamilton everywhere. You sure this is not a misfire then especially as you can feel it at idle? However, if you say it is most definately worse when reversing then my gut says clutch. It's hard to help in these situations though without driving the car myself, sorry. DMF's are unusual things though and they can mimic misfire symptoms. I have very limited experience with DMF's personally as everything I drive at the moment is either automatic or too old for DMF. Good luck with it though.

Have you had the A5 remapped?

Have you got back in touch with the supplier of the turbo. Surely that's the seal catastrophically failing to push that much oil out of the exhaust. If oil was leaking somehow from engine internals before it wouldn't matter which turbo was fitted. i really think you need to contact supplier and get an exchange!

It's amazing how often it can be such a simple fix 👍

That is a good find Piotr!! autocorrect changed EBay to Okay for welding sticks. So frustrating sometimes because my English is bad enough as it is!!

What a nightmare!! you could melt this back together (okay for plastic melting rods) or fibre glass it from behind. (I would do a little bit of both) but melting/welding it back together will be the least unsightly afterwards. However, as it's not a rare colour you might find a half decent second hand one on eBay or try 247 Spares many others available!! You might be lucky and get one in the right colour.

Did you clean up the faces?? With spacers you have to follow protocol as if you are changing to new brake discs. You have to ensure all faces are very clean so that the disc sits 💯 to hub. And then wheel to disc. When spacers are added there is an additional face, more chance of irregularities in mating surfaces. My guess is somehow there was a bad seating and this was causing just enough movement to make a clicking sound but only when there was weight on them i.e. Wheels back on ground. Hope that makes sense, my English is not the best and struggle to get it all out there lol. Result though mate, a rare cheap fix!, I would keep an eye on it though just in case.

Just look online to what's local to you, see if there are any reviews on each company and go with them. I followed same advice and found someone localish. Cost £50 a wheel (18's) and got them black powder coated. They look better than new. In fact too good for the tyres so bought new ones!! Lol

Sorry I meant U.K.-mkivs site. If you do go down the Cupra route though then please update what you have done enginewise on here, we need more tuning threads 😈 Mind you, keep an eye out for an MOT failure A3, you might get a cheap one that way!?!

Yes, the Intercooler cools the boosted air before it goes into the inlet manifold this is because the turbo puts a fare bit of heat into the air, have you ever seen a turbo heat up to glow red? Which ever engine you go for your best to see what is the max people have got out of it without any new engine parts like Intercooler etc etc then find out which is the first limiting factor. Different engines will have different safe outputs even though they are the same cc. I am replacing the 1.8t in my golf mkIV. I believe from memory that I am swoping the AUM for the AGU, better head for tuning and a KO3 turbo, but I can keep the standard exhaust Intercooler etc. But if I wanted to go towards the 300bhp mark it would need manifold, down pipe, exhaust, Intercooler, injectors to name but a few items plus a remap so the ECU doesn't have a melt down!! The VWmkIV site is a great site for looking at what people have done to these engines.

Cuppa would make a great alternative and might give you more budget for mods. Mr Q is right on suspension and brakes but budget for best tyres you can get for grip. Power isn't everything..............

I have Iistened to those clips an I can definately hear it. If it was bearings then you would here a rumble noise while traveling at speed, say 50mph. To test which side has gone you would hear the noise more if drivers side has gone when you turn left for example. But typically you wouldn't hear a noise like what you have going slow. Before going any further I would be tempted to take a wheel off, then spacer and then the disc. Ensure all the mating surfaces are 100% clean and then put back together. If that doesn't cure it then surely the next step is drive shafts. However, if you have the warranty I would be giving them a call. Because drive shafts are not cheap and I would only fit OEM ones to your car!! keep us posted mate.

My money is on the drive shafts. When cold all the bearings sit in a different position to when warm. If sound is worse when fully locked left or right then it's related to outer CV joints. If it doesn't make a difference to noise then it's the inner joints and or sliders. i would't grease back of pads at all unless you think you need to. Copper slip, grease etc etc doesn't really matter what you use, it collects crap and dust and dries out so each time you service breaks it needs cleaning off and fresh put on. Less is most definately more when/if applying. Be interested to hear what happens when you have it jacked up. Leave the other wheel touching ground to ensure only one side is turning at a time.

Yep, that's a lot of oil. If the dipstick advice still shows you need to top up I would be looking for two things. Oil leak somewhere in engine bay. Also stick your finger into the exhaust tailpipe and feel for oily residue on your fingers. The latter would lead me to believe the turbo seals have gone. In which case the garage should stand for that on the warranty. Replacement turbo.

I am sure someone with the same model will confirm this but it does look like you have the B6 version which certainly goes with your year of manufacture and registration. However, I think from memory the cabriolet has different ones. I would try an Audi specific breakers yard either in UK or Spain. I think that's your best bet. Unless someone on here wants to swap with you so they can have the upgrade and you get your OEM ones for conversion. Hope that helps somewhat?

Might be best to post a photo of the front of the car. People will be able to give better advice on model designation for ordering the lights. welcome to the forum btw 👍

Hi, my mate has an A6 that has this issue too. It seems like a common fault. He has tried lubricating the latch in the doors, this helps but doesn't seem to last. He has bought a brand new replacement for the passenger door to cure it. He thinks it's the only cure. Only £25 though.

Hi mate and welcome to the forum. I am sure some people will be able to help in a specific way but I would say that checking the service history on whatever car you get is high on the egenda. Regular oil changes and timing belt and water pump done when needed etc. The rest is then pot luck really. Some people are lucky and other not. I ran an A4 2.0 TFSI Quattro for a couple months about 6 years back and I absolutely loved it. As a massive derv fan normally one of those could sway me in the future. Good luck whatever path you choose.

I have this upgrade on my car too and it has an intermittent fault, one day it works the next it doesn't!?! Co-figure. I believe it is a loose connection on mine or a faulty relay. But, as on mine I think it's quite common for those light changes to always show there is a fault on the dash. Due to the heat given off with bulbs in this modern age most light units are actually vented now which inevitably lets moisture in. If this happens again, just wrap the light lenses in tinfoil. Turn the lights on for 10-15 mins. It drives the moisture out. A very good tip for the morning of an MOT!! I have had to do the latter on the Tigra every year and one of the Mazdas too.