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Okay, re-read the VCDS scan. Module J104 is indeed the ABS module, but the faults relate to the parking brake (right), specifically implausible signal and electrical failure. When the caliper was swapped out for a pattern part then genuine Audi, did it come with brand new plug and play EPB, or was the original EPB swapped over? ABS module seems unlikely, why just rear right, why not left? They are sensitive bits of kit, especially if they have been ‘jumped’ in a previous life to change pads with separate 12v source. VCDS has specific procedure for pad changing, plus it’s recommended to keep power to the battery with a trickle charge on pad swap over. This may or may not be useful, but I rebuilt the brakes on my B8 A4 Allroad. Audi don’t even stock parts for rebuild, apart from a caliper square seal and dust boot. Budweg kits (Autodoc) come with ‘o’ rings that seal the caliper splindle on both sides. This is what stops water ingress. You need long needle nose circlip pliers to swap out. If you’ve got a new Audi OE brake caliper, then this will be fine. However if old EPB was simply bolted on, who knows? It’s held on with Torx screws. Another open given you have VCDS is to post the log on RossTech forum if you haven’t already done so. Looked on LLL parts for the parking brake module but no luck. That’s not to say it isn’t there though. Appreciate that some models of A3 use the ABS module.

Are we going to get any feedback following Chris James’ advice then?

My thanks to all that responded to my initial query regarding the recommended life of the timing belt on my Q3. Your comments have been very useful. Despite Audi still sticking with their life of 186,500 miles or 15 years I'm going for something in the region of 6 years or 70,000 miles. I would rather spend £1500 +/- now than umpteen thousands in a few years. Subject now closed

Many thanks.

Too True.

Hi if the tank is the non round type you can remove the bag, if its the round double skinned type its in between the structure and you can't get at it. Steve.

Right, you now have to confirm your suspicion that the noise is from a belt driven components - but which one. A good start would be to use a rod type stethoscope, taking all safety and risk elements into consideration - probably wiser to entrust this to a garage. The offender should reveal itself. Regards, Gareth. Please note, worth emphasising the risks of this approach with an engine running at 3K revs. Just take it to a trusted garage. ( all in Caps).

Have you seen this Andrew? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system

Thank you mate , I'll give that a bash and see how it pans out

Hi I think you are correct as the popping is caused by unburnt fuel exploding after the cat and in the exhaust which is basically untreated hydrocarbons and C02, the side benefit of this is that if you still have a cat it will destroy it, some people even have spark plugs fitted past the silencer which ignites the unburnt fuel so you have popping and flames emanating from the exhaust, when I used to work nights any driver going to anywhere near Lakeside retail park lived in fear of the hoards of lunatics popping and flaming as they forced you in to the middle of the dual carriageways whilst overtaking both sides of your vehicle, the Police claim to have not enough officers to cover the area and no powers to stop this, well, they will have soon, some Thurrock drivers can attest to horrific accidents a lot of them high speed and caused by defects in braking and suspension, why not forget the overpriced straight through exhaust and its remap and spend the money on making sure you can stop and go around corners, my main objection is when they take some unsuspecting soul out as well, why does insurance cost so much because you can bet your bottom dollar that alarge percentage of these people with modified cars don't declare the said modification because they won't get insurance therefore what they do have insurance wise is void via the non disclosure clause on their policy, this leaves any victims of their stupidity with what? you got it, claiming off their own insurance. Steve.

Thank you. Think I've found all I need to at the moment, but will bear this in mind 👍

Hi thats chain driven therefore you have the possibility of chain stretch or guide wear which can only be corrected by replacement. Steve.

Have a look at it, tell us what make it is, and whether it looks well used or newish.

could be just an o2 sensor or a could be a vacuum leak but check with a scanner

Many thanks

Thanks all!

Thanks Karl for that useful information. It is worth noting that modern cars are extremely sensitive to the electrical power supply which needs to be stable under all load conditions. Dying batteries can often start the engine normally yet cause a variety of electronic faults such as loss of automatic stop/start function, and false warning messages on the dashboard, amongst others. Even top quality batteries can need to be replaced after five years.

I think part number is 8W8827851E. Personally I’d avoid EBay and order something from Autodoc. Makes including Bugiad (Germany), and Stabilus which I think is OE. They are £250 per strut. You will probably have to go to relearn mode once fitted and sync them.

Hello Neil, Just viewed your second (now hidden) response to my comments. You continue to reign derogatory comments on Cliff, and you ask me not to ‘un-hide’ your latest missive. This ask is an unfair request on my judgement, so sorry not on. I really sympathise with your situation Neil, and I wish you good luck. Regards, Gareth.

Fair enough Mike. A new clutch and DMF is always expensive. Bearing in mind that low mileage and short journeys in a diesel is inviting expensive DPF blockages it is time to consider changing the car. A petrol car is better suited to short journeys, as is an electric car depending on your circumstances and seating requirements.

Sorry to hear this, hope you're ok? Car protected you.

Thank you for updating us 🙂

Check service history for proof of cambelt/water pump changes unless it's a chain. If chain then listen for rattle on start up and driving. It'll be an auto I suspect so check there's proof of gearbox oil changes as the s tonic box doesn't like to have old oil. Usually it's first or reverse that refuse to engage. But check all gears a smooth. Again check for service history of quattro system. Check all electrical items work. AC works consistently in all vents as issues with the system can get expensive. Check all leds are working in rear lights. Look for any proof of dpf, egr issues in service history.

Just adding a bit more info- some independent vag dealerships can access sfd2 via the official odis coding software but charges are some £300 for access. This is to allow retrofiting of some features such as reversing cameras. Not sure if they would make changes to safety features for you?