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Hi everyone, new owner (since earlier this year) of a 2012 A6 Allroad 3.0TFSI, imported from Japan. Mechanically it's running like a dream - only 60k miles, full inspection and service carried out at Renn in Iver. I've also had a stage 2 tune from MRC, with IE air intake, APR coils, MRC supercharger pulley, ECU & TCU remap... all of which gives it a slightly ridiculous 494bhp. Unfortunately, it seems to have some electronic gremlins... First off the passenger wing mirror wouldn't fold out. Eventually got it out and have now just set the mirrors not to fold, problem solved! The next problem is a bit more inconvenient though, with the MMI system not starting up at all. It started as an intermittent thing, gradually becoming more regular and now has not worked at all for at least a month. The screen doesn't pop up, the button on the centre console don't light up... nothing. I've used fibre optic loops to isolate the various components int he boot, but no dice. Also tried the hard reset, but that does nothing either. Therefore, I'm assuming the head unit is the point of failure, unfortunately. I found a link with steps for reloading the firmware, but it seems a bit out of my comfort zone, so I'm resigned to the fact that replacement is needed. I'm guessing I need an Audi dealer to make it work once a new (second hand) one is installed. My real issue is knowing which units will work. Mine is 4G0 035 678 C which, I believe, is a Japanese specific version. Would I be ok using a (more easily available) UK version? Does anyone know which part codes would be compatible? Alternatively, is it worth going to an auto elec specialist to see if they can do anything with it? As a side note, I also have some rattling from underneath when I go over small bumps - I thought it was the small plastic covers behind each wheel, as they were very loose, but I've replaced those and the rattling remains. It doesn't seem like it's a direct suspension component as the rattles aren't entirely linked with bumps and/or suspension travel, but I could be wrong. Are there any "usual suspects" I should look at first? It would be easier to investigate this if I could get the MMi working and therefore change from dynamic to allroad mode and get better access underneath! Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Thanks for following this up Gareth.

Thanks Spartacus for continuing to help me. Both times the right rear caliper assembly was replaced it was the whole item including the EPB motor and its cable/connector. I had asked, the first swap, to just change the motor but was told this was a bad idea. I have both replaced calipers and they both have the motor etc. I remember the first main dealer also reported that they had swapped over the rear speed sensors, as these tell the ABS unit to change over from EPB to hydraulic braking at 7 km/h. But this made no change.

My thanks to all that responded to my initial query regarding the recommended life of the timing belt on my Q3. Your comments have been very useful. Despite Audi still sticking with their life of 186,500 miles or 15 years I'm going for something in the region of 6 years or 70,000 miles. I would rather spend £1500 +/- now than umpteen thousands in a few years. Subject now closed

Many thanks.

Too True.

Hi if the tank is the non round type you can remove the bag, if its the round double skinned type its in between the structure and you can't get at it. Steve.

Right, you now have to confirm your suspicion that the noise is from a belt driven components - but which one. A good start would be to use a rod type stethoscope, taking all safety and risk elements into consideration - probably wiser to entrust this to a garage. The offender should reveal itself. Regards, Gareth. Please note, worth emphasising the risks of this approach with an engine running at 3K revs. Just take it to a trusted garage. ( all in Caps).

Have you seen this Andrew? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system

Thank you mate , I'll give that a bash and see how it pans out

Hi I think you are correct as the popping is caused by unburnt fuel exploding after the cat and in the exhaust which is basically untreated hydrocarbons and C02, the side benefit of this is that if you still have a cat it will destroy it, some people even have spark plugs fitted past the silencer which ignites the unburnt fuel so you have popping and flames emanating from the exhaust, when I used to work nights any driver going to anywhere near Lakeside retail park lived in fear of the hoards of lunatics popping and flaming as they forced you in to the middle of the dual carriageways whilst overtaking both sides of your vehicle, the Police claim to have not enough officers to cover the area and no powers to stop this, well, they will have soon, some Thurrock drivers can attest to horrific accidents a lot of them high speed and caused by defects in braking and suspension, why not forget the overpriced straight through exhaust and its remap and spend the money on making sure you can stop and go around corners, my main objection is when they take some unsuspecting soul out as well, why does insurance cost so much because you can bet your bottom dollar that alarge percentage of these people with modified cars don't declare the said modification because they won't get insurance therefore what they do have insurance wise is void via the non disclosure clause on their policy, this leaves any victims of their stupidity with what? you got it, claiming off their own insurance. Steve.

Thank you. Think I've found all I need to at the moment, but will bear this in mind 👍

Hi thats chain driven therefore you have the possibility of chain stretch or guide wear which can only be corrected by replacement. Steve.

Have a look at it, tell us what make it is, and whether it looks well used or newish.

could be just an o2 sensor or a could be a vacuum leak but check with a scanner

Many thanks

Thanks all!

Thanks Karl for that useful information. It is worth noting that modern cars are extremely sensitive to the electrical power supply which needs to be stable under all load conditions. Dying batteries can often start the engine normally yet cause a variety of electronic faults such as loss of automatic stop/start function, and false warning messages on the dashboard, amongst others. Even top quality batteries can need to be replaced after five years.

I think part number is 8W8827851E. Personally I’d avoid EBay and order something from Autodoc. Makes including Bugiad (Germany), and Stabilus which I think is OE. They are £250 per strut. You will probably have to go to relearn mode once fitted and sync them.

Hello Neil, Just viewed your second (now hidden) response to my comments. You continue to reign derogatory comments on Cliff, and you ask me not to ‘un-hide’ your latest missive. This ask is an unfair request on my judgement, so sorry not on. I really sympathise with your situation Neil, and I wish you good luck. Regards, Gareth.

Fair enough Mike. A new clutch and DMF is always expensive. Bearing in mind that low mileage and short journeys in a diesel is inviting expensive DPF blockages it is time to consider changing the car. A petrol car is better suited to short journeys, as is an electric car depending on your circumstances and seating requirements.

Sorry to hear this, hope you're ok? Car protected you.

Thank you for updating us 🙂

Check service history for proof of cambelt/water pump changes unless it's a chain. If chain then listen for rattle on start up and driving. It'll be an auto I suspect so check there's proof of gearbox oil changes as the s tonic box doesn't like to have old oil. Usually it's first or reverse that refuse to engage. But check all gears a smooth. Again check for service history of quattro system. Check all electrical items work. AC works consistently in all vents as issues with the system can get expensive. Check all leds are working in rear lights. Look for any proof of dpf, egr issues in service history.