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Hello Neil, Just viewed your second (now hidden) response to my comments. You continue to reign derogatory comments on Cliff, and you ask me not to ‘un-hide’ your latest missive. This ask is an unfair request on my judgement, so sorry not on. I really sympathise with your situation Neil, and I wish you good luck. Regards, Gareth.

Hello all thanks for letting me join , I have a 2016 S3 8V and have an oil leak from the oil level sensor . Replaced the sensor with an OEM part but the leak continues. Above the sump is bone dry along the sump is dry aswell managed to check it on the lift at work.Any advice will be appreciated

Hello Gareth, Appreciate your response. Do you not think if it was the alignment I would have noticed the difference closer to when it was done? Regarding the tyre pressure they are all up to the guidelines from Audi and i checked these as soon as i felt the difference. The tread seems to be pretty consistent on all 4 also. It’s got the Ventus Stevo3 22s on.

Update. The master tech from Poole Audi phoned this afternoon saying all done and I will be able to pick it up in the morning. I asked what work was done to fix the fault and was just told a total reboot 🤔. But assured me it has sorted it. Guess I will just have to see for myself but I hope it has sorted it. As for a goodwill gesture, I can only hope 🤔

Fair enough Mike. A new clutch and DMF is always expensive. Bearing in mind that low mileage and short journeys in a diesel is inviting expensive DPF blockages it is time to consider changing the car. A petrol car is better suited to short journeys, as is an electric car depending on your circumstances and seating requirements.

Sorry to hear this, hope you're ok? Car protected you.

Also, when fitting a donor door, transfer all modules over from your existing door as this should help reduce the risk of electrical gremlins with central locking etc.

Thank you for updating us 🙂

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Could be an issue with a mad sensor.

Check service history for proof of cambelt/water pump changes unless it's a chain. If chain then listen for rattle on start up and driving. It'll be an auto I suspect so check there's proof of gearbox oil changes as the s tonic box doesn't like to have old oil. Usually it's first or reverse that refuse to engage. But check all gears a smooth. Again check for service history of quattro system. Check all electrical items work. AC works consistently in all vents as issues with the system can get expensive. Check all leds are working in rear lights. Look for any proof of dpf, egr issues in service history.

Welcome Jerry, Common problem across many marques. I’ve used EBay aftermarket ones in the past and they have done what they supposed to do. Consideration;- originals have lasted 9 years, aftermarket are less than 1/10 of the cost, so if they last a year, you are quids in. What’s not to like? Could you please keep the forum updated on what you do, so that other members can benefit from your experience. Regards, Gareth.

Hi the tolerance for the adaption is plus or minus five degrees you don't state which engine you have, ergo chain driven means the chain has stretched or the tensioner is worn, if its belt driven it could well be the sensors or if its high milage the variation units could be clogged. Steve.

Just adding a bit more info- some independent vag dealerships can access sfd2 via the official odis coding software but charges are some £300 for access. This is to allow retrofiting of some features such as reversing cameras. Not sure if they would make changes to safety features for you?

Did you code the new battery to the car? It needs to be done to ensure it is charged correctly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFK0JPs6aO0

Great! very helpful to know what I might be looking at. Many thanks.

My understanding is Audi just change the oil, however there's a mesh filter which needs cleaned. Pretty sure it will be 5 generation Haldex.

Hi could be an auxiliary water pump they use these to circulate the water if the weather is hot after the engine is stopped it prevents cooking the cylinder head, by the looks of the coolant temp it was already hot when you started the car. Steve.

Stormbroadcast - today - with just 2 previous posts, should be deleted?

hi all I have a set of roof bars for a 19 plate A7 if any one is looking , they have never been on a car and a bargain at 190 plus postage , based in Malvern

Thanks for letting us know. I'll lock this topic.

Hello Bob, The forum is looking for some feedback from you, on the help you asked for. Thanks. Gareth.

Vibration could be anything, wheel balance, bearing, brakes. Wheel balance is as good a place to start - relatively inexpensive. Bearings usually have constant drone from 40mph up and really bad ones will have a wobble. Brakes, then sticky caliper will force contact with disc. You can usually smell. Drive for 10-15 minutes and coast to a stop. Brakes may be warm, but definitely not hot. If all that checks out, the only other thing is suspension arms. You'll normally feel a clunk over uneven road surfaces. If car has auto lights - it may be ambient light sensor. VCDS might mick this up in a scan.

Hi Nigel. I drive to Ireland several times a year and I always have to go in to the menu to change it over to kms. Hope that helps.

The three-button reset didn't fix it. Looks like I'm doing more investigation. I tried a scan tool which sadly returned no errors... Thanks for your suggestions guys.. If I find anything else, I'll come back with that later.