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Unfortunately for these all electric flaps and controllers there is no adaption so it either works or doesn’t. Save replacing the whole thing again which may or may not work, I am still unsure how to move forward.

Ask the dealer if he will guarantee, at his expense, that a new unit will solve the problem entirely. That should tell how much confidence you can put on his diagnosis. On a more general note, it is a shame main dealers do not allow customers to have direct communication with the mechanics, or technicians as they like to refer to them nowadays. The more barriers between the man who pays the bill and the man who repairs the car leads to distrust and unneccesary costs. It is one of the reasons I abandoned Audi main dealerships in favour of a small independent specialist where I could talk directly to the man who got his hands dirty.

Hi All I bought a 2011 A7 a month ago and all been well except the last two mornings gone to press stop start its shown up message and cut out Reset then tried again and all fine no driving issues Changed key fob battery as had in the other day just to check for codes fir peace of mind and it said low but nothing else in codes Could it possibly be the stop start not being pushed for long enough trying to eliminate any minors before it gets coolant valve checked ad this seems a usual problem Mant thanks for any input

The photos are for the rear right, ignore the grey arch panel part. Where my hand is on the bottom of the arch is where the clip is broken, I think there is a hook type clip that fits into a square hole on the part that's fixed to the body( black section ) plus another clip is missing from the top of the arch. I'm only guessing but that is what Audi have said. They said it needs a new arch which then needs painting.

PRICE WOULD BE GOOD TO KEV

Adrian. There is no magic oil, no insider knowlege, and no secret fix for your problem. To state matters bluntly, the engine is a clapped out heap of scrap iron which needs to be either repaired or replaced. It really is as simple as that. You know the cost of repair, you know the cost of the huge amounts of oil it is drinking, and you know the cost of repeatedly throwing money at a mechanic. It's time to use that knowledge to arrive at a decision on the car's fate. I am sorry to add to your misfortune, but this problem is well known in the trade so car dealers are unlikely to offer you more than a few hundred pounds for it, no matter how good the rest of the car may be. Bear that in mind when making the decision.

Thanks Allan. As with all ‘comparison tests’, the question which needs to be asked is -who is funding/sponsoring the test? My comments were really aimed at a better understanding of the much-used, and disliked, broad brush term ‘ditch finder’. I think anyone who fits budget tyres to a vehicle which they drive enthusiastically is indeed taking a higher risk than they would by buying well researched premium grades. However, if your diving style is not-getting-anywhere-in-a-hurry, then I wouldn’t automatically dismiss all budget tyres. My point which might have been helpful to other members who drive as the last paragraph is that, of budget brands, Accelera has given me all round satisfaction for my requirements. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks!

No probs at all.

No probs at all. I fully appreciate why you want to. Best way To do it is with a hairdryer/heat gun and fishing wire between the badge and boot once glue heated up.

Sorry. I have one on each side window boot area (avant) and one below the rear number plate

Hi, no, I'm saying I got it FOC from a trusted source.

My 2018 RS5 as started displaying the sports differential fault. It doesn’t display whilst running in comfort mode but the warning appears when in dynamic. I have the car booked in for a diagnostic check next week. As anyone else had this same issue?

I do t think it does cliff as it'd just be a visual check.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Hi Is there anyone un the Bristol area that can program Aux in my RNSE please. I believe VAGCOM is required ?

Thats fair enough but connectors, lights are clean dry, no evidence of overheating, corrosion etc. Mystery continues

It's the power speed triangle

When was it last serviced? Plugged airfilter will also cause black smoke and a loud sucking/ whistling

Did some digging, turns out the glowplug error is something to do with the coolant temp sensor, is probably why the car is hesitant and slightly over fueling, also means I can drop the coolant too as that is also way past it's use by date.

Hi. Yes will get a quote from them. Thanks

You're welcome 🙂

Well, it's been a week, and still no light, so it's starting to look like that was the problem. I do still have a 'dead' spot in the accelerator pedal though. Obviously I've not measured the distances, but it seems that the first cm or so of travel elicits a throttle response, and then the next cm or so is flat - no additional acceleration, and then beyond that it's all good. So, I suspect it still needs a trip to the garage, but thanks to your previous response, at least I won't be paying to have the throttle body adapted!

Look at Celtic tuning, revo or darkside developments for remap. Powerflow exhausts for stainless steel systems.

Really? That seems a daft design but makes sense too.