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Thanks, I have done but they don't know what the issue is. They think it's coming from the matrix. All diagnostics show no problems so I'm unsure what it could be and tempted to back out if the purchase. Some forums say it's normal and to do with cooling the turbos or something? 20250625_084523.mp4

Car was returned today, no problems. Nicely valeted and fully charged. (80% only)

Sorry to hear of your situation and for the delayed reply. p0299 indicates turbo under boost. Before writing off the turbo if get your mechanic to check the turbo pipes, as over time these can perish and where they attach to the turbo they can let sir through when under pressure but would look fine when not under pressure if that makes sense. Your second fault code 05171 supports my theory as it implies a boost leak from a pipe or similar.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 yep it can be changed. You're probably best going for an aftermarket apple car play/android auto set up. You can buy these online.

Definitely worth a shot but I'd still recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up for the dpf. You could look at having it professionally cleaned but this may only buy you time.

Sorry you have felt the forum has been unhelpful. This seems to have all stemmed from a lack of information in the car you advertised. As your membership is free, there isn't a full need to cancel.

Wow cost me £21

Have you had the suspension checked for loose joints? It may be that the undercarriage is the source of the noise rather than the tyres?

Somewhere in one of the menus there should be an option to reset the standard or baseline setting. Don't ask me where as I don't know the A8.

Why not ask Audi?

I don't have a multimeter, but the OH may have one I can steal borrow. Otherwise I can pick one up easily enough. Instructions state to select a fuse associated with a function which can only be used when the ignition is on - usually cig lighter/heated seats etc. Can't be more than a 20amp fuse. Already found the bottom 20amp fuse is for my cig lighter/12v socket, so that should be fine. Did try some other fuses though when it didn't work, but still no luck. Didn't have the spade (negative) connected to the bodywork every time though (was just holding it), but not sure if that is the reason it won't work - if I could work out where to feed it to out of the glovebox and what to screw it to then I could rule that out...

Audi dealer Simon? Size? Can we take it you don’t have one as an example? Regards, Gareth.

Yes, the new battery was replaced following AUDI/VW BATTERY CODING USING VCDS. This was done a few months ago now and car has been working perfectly since(even the Start/Stop system began to kick in again as it hadn't been with my ailing battery). Latest is that I booked the car in at Audi Guildford on Monday for a diagnostic appointment(£150) and included the fault code output I posted here. I took the car out for a brief road test earlier and even after driving it quite hard(>5000 rpm), there were NO further issues, NO EPC warning light etc., so all seemed good(I wasn't driving hard when the fault happened). My opinion is that the fault was triggered by the hot weather we had yesterday in the UK, that coupled with possibly some part of the fuel system that has degraded over the past 11 years. Hopefully, Audi(Lookers) can shed some light on whether anything needs replacing. My main concern was whether the car was still drivable after yesterday and all I can say is so far so good. I'll be wary the next time I'm on a long run though 😬. Any comments ? Thanks, Richard

To update everyone, After months of issues and nothing happening I today was told to report all faults to Audi Customer Relations. They were really helpful but like everyone else their hands are tied but the more people who report faults the more chance of issues being resolved. So please all 0800 699 888 and report the faults, the more they get the more pressure it puts on Audi. Should not be paying the large amounts of money we are all paying to have these issues.

Hey all Have an annoying issue , my mmi sound stops working from time to time , i have to turn off car and unplug the leads from the amplifier in the boot for around 10 min and then reconnect and it works again . Has anybody else has this issue , is there a better way to fix this without having to unplug everything ? turning mmi off and on doesn't work . Thanks

If the dipstick is showing ok then I'd say it's the oil.levdl sensor at fault. You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up

I understand now. If the car has a rear facing camera or radar linked to the brakes than it makes sense to disable that system when towing. I assume, perhaps wrongly, that Audi would have planned for that possibility and that the electrical connections at the tow ball would automatically disable that function.

Sorry Adam I won't sign up to anything to watch your video. My concern about the door was whether it was sagging because of worn hinges, which would be unusual on a 15 year old car, or the body had been twisted in a crash, which in turn might explain the cill damage on the other side. If you are satisfied the problem is merely worn hinges than all is well. I suggest you sort out the hinges before renewing the seals otherwise the new rubber will soon be damaged.

Hi Ian, It`s in the 5th picture from the bottom in my guide as well. Regards Vytas

Might be worth you speaking to autologics or Audi retrofits as members have used them and been pleased with the results

Thank you for replying

Cheers Steve

Hi Guys I took the car back to the mechanic who replaced the drivers side lower rearward arm and now all the noise is gone on the drivers side. Basically, that's both lower arms and drop link replaced on Drivers side. Looks like I need to do the same on the passenger side as I can now hear a creaking noise lol It only occurs at low speed during braking, as opposed to the drivers side which was during accelerating at low speed. I assume I need to replace the front lower rearward control arm too on the passenger side but has anyone ever experienced creaking noise during braking where the car pitches forward at low speed? Which arm would receive the most force during low speed braking? Just worried if I ask the mechanic to replace the arm and it doesn't fix it. Could it be the upper arms? Cheers

You're most welcome 🙂 please keep us posted on how you get on with the retrofit.

Yeah, I raised it with the sales manager who showed me a 150 point pre sale check etc, the only thing I can think of is I'm pretty sure it was almost ok from cold and worse when up to temp, maybe this is why it got missed.